1999 232 gulfstreaam

davedogwood

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How are the 1999 gulfstream holding up? What hidden issues should I be aware of? Are they prone to the same transom issues even though motor is bracketed?
Thanks
 
I have a 1998 (bought new) 232G F250 repowered. No known problems. Has been dry stacked or on a lift with a roof almost all of the time.
 
Can't help directly - mine is a 2003. But transom is solid, no water in it. I would absolutely replace all hoses going to thru-hulls. Mine were leaking between the cockpit and the thru-hulls in the transom. My (2X) 2003 F200's are only exhibiting mild exhaust corrosion, but I know my day is coming. Biggest issue I have is that the transom, fishbox drain, and livewell drain thru-hulls are all below the waterline with any crew aboard (not so much for mid-ship thruhulls at the dock). Check those mid-ship side compartments to look for corrosion/leakage issues for the fishbox and livewell thru-hulls. Access/repairs are doable, but not fun.
 
Can't help directly - mine is a 2003. But transom is solid, no water in it. I would absolutely replace all hoses going to thru-hulls. Mine were leaking between the cockpit and the thru-hulls in the transom. My (2X) 2003 F200's are only exhibiting mild exhaust corrosion, but I know my day is coming. Biggest issue I have is that the transom, fishbox drain, and livewell drain thru-hulls are all below the waterline with any crew aboard (not so much for mid-ship thruhulls at the dock). Check those mid-ship side compartments to look for corrosion/leakage issues for the fishbox and livewell thru-hulls. Access/repairs are doable, but not fun.
If they're exhibiting mild dry exhaust corrosion issues right now, then I'd seriously consider getting them worked on because I was told from my local GW dealer that if you wait, it's only going to get worse. And if you wait too long, then it could spread into other parts of the motor to where you're looking at a full replacement of both motors, as opposed to the kits which is around $2k per engine to do, and that includes both the kit and the labor.
 
To the OP, I think 1997 was the year that Grady White implemented their Greenwood XL wood into the hulls, transoms and everything else as opposed to just using standard marine grade plywood. It's not perfect and the hulls can still rot, but it's usually from other things like leaks or cracks that cause water to sit in the boat for extended periods of time. It's supposed to be a much better product than the standard marine grade plywood and you typically see less guys having issues with rotten transoms on their 1997 and newer boats, but if you're considering buying one which it kind of sounds like you are, I always recommend paying an accredited marine surveyor to go out and look over the boat with/for you. They'll be able to take moisture readings, use a rubber/plastic mallet or hammer to tap the hull to listen or feel for any soft spots and will tell you if there is any water intrusion or rot. Attached are the two links for accredited marine surveyors if you're considering buying a boat, most will cost between oh $350-1,000 depending on what all you have them do for you. If you're looking at early 2000's Yamaha 4 stroke motors, also consider the dry exhaust corrosion issues as stated above. Lots of early Yamaha 4 strokes had the issue, especially the F225's and it's relatively easy to check to see if there's problem by dropping the lower units down and looking up to see what issues there may be. Good luck with your search!


 
Ensure you get a complete survey. It’s gonna be wet somewhere.
 
Best of luck with your Gulfstream, my 2004 Gulfstream has been in a dry rack since new and has no transom issues.