went out to run my 265 the other day and I got up on plane and when I went to back down to idle the port motor would only go down to about 2000 rpm and I couldn't move the controle any further and it would not go out of gear. has anyone else had this problem and what did you have to do to fix it? Ive done a little research and saw that they had some problems with the earlier 4 strokes with not wanting to come out of gear. Thanks
2002 Yamaha f225txr not shifting out of gear
- Thread starter southernstyle995
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More likely it is a control cable issue. The reason I suspect that is the fact that it seems to get stuck at 2000 revs. The revs should be much lower before the control disengages the shift linkage.
It could be something jammed at the motor, something jammed at the control or a jammed cable.
Testing the shift at the motor is easy. With the motor NOT running, disengage the shift linkage and manually move the shift linkage to see if you get into neutral. If so, that's great news. Now you have to see what the issue is with the shift or throttle cable. That is more difficult to find since you may need to open the control box to isolate specific cables.
It could be something jammed at the motor, something jammed at the control or a jammed cable.
Testing the shift at the motor is easy. With the motor NOT running, disengage the shift linkage and manually move the shift linkage to see if you get into neutral. If so, that's great news. Now you have to see what the issue is with the shift or throttle cable. That is more difficult to find since you may need to open the control box to isolate specific cables.
To add on to what Seasick said... you can do various combinations of disconnecting the throttle and shift cables at the engines, moving things by hand and moving the throttle/shift lever with and without the cables connected at the engine. You should be able to pretty easily narrow down where the issue is... engine, cables or control box.
I'd also, as mentioned, give your cables a good looksie - if the throttle cable got pinched/bent somewhere along the way, that would easily explain why you couldn't back off throttle. But this will be identifiable doing the things mentioned.
I'd also, as mentioned, give your cables a good looksie - if the throttle cable got pinched/bent somewhere along the way, that would easily explain why you couldn't back off throttle. But this will be identifiable doing the things mentioned.
SkunkBoat
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fingers crossed it is a cable problem and not the lower unit
I just went thru replacing shift cables on my 265. There is a recent post by me on here with part numbers and description. do a search.
Isolate it at the motor end. disconnect cables and move the control. You'll probably get a quick sense of which is bad but the next step is the control box side.
Its not really difficult except for not dropping nuts. Pulling new cables was easy. (you might consider doing both shift cables or all of the cables while you have it open.)
Oh, on mine I had already broken off 2 of the allen head screws holding the cover on the control box...so that might be an added aggravation
I just went thru replacing shift cables on my 265. There is a recent post by me on here with part numbers and description. do a search.
Isolate it at the motor end. disconnect cables and move the control. You'll probably get a quick sense of which is bad but the next step is the control box side.
Its not really difficult except for not dropping nuts. Pulling new cables was easy. (you might consider doing both shift cables or all of the cables while you have it open.)
Oh, on mine I had already broken off 2 of the allen head screws holding the cover on the control box...so that might be an added aggravation
I also replaced both shift and control cables on my '04 265. I found the outer sheath had corroded through and the inner wire, which it the part that does the work, poked through the corroded sheath. So when I would shift or increase the throttle, the inner wire lost some of its ability to push the shift linkage or throttle linkage, so sometimes it wouldn't shift out of gear and the throttle was sticky. I imagine yours could get stuck at 2000 RPM.
One tip when pulling new cables using the old ones- use a 10-32 coupling nut to connect the threaded rod end on the old cable to the threaded rod end of the new. It makes for a solid connection that has a low profile, making it easier to pull through. I found it to be a tough project but doable.
One tip when pulling new cables using the old ones- use a 10-32 coupling nut to connect the threaded rod end on the old cable to the threaded rod end of the new. It makes for a solid connection that has a low profile, making it easier to pull through. I found it to be a tough project but doable.
I did forget to mention that I did unhook at the motor an I worked the controles an all was fine there so its definately something at the motor. I did try to shift it in an out of gear at the motor an it wouldn't go unless I moved the prop
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SkunkBoat
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ouch.
Not familiar with the F225 but generally... the cables connect to a plastic piece that connects to a metal piece that turns the shift shaft.
The shaft goes down to lower unit and fits onto a splined or keyed piece at the lower unit. On some motors that I have seen, this shaft had a connecting collar with a set screw. Possible trouble there.
So with cables disconnected, try to shift with your fingers and observe. You may need to spin prop by hand during your troubleshooting in order to get it to shift. (Make sure the safety motor kill switch is killing spark!)
Not familiar with the F225 but generally... the cables connect to a plastic piece that connects to a metal piece that turns the shift shaft.
The shaft goes down to lower unit and fits onto a splined or keyed piece at the lower unit. On some motors that I have seen, this shaft had a connecting collar with a set screw. Possible trouble there.
So with cables disconnected, try to shift with your fingers and observe. You may need to spin prop by hand during your troubleshooting in order to get it to shift. (Make sure the safety motor kill switch is killing spark!)
wrxhoon
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I think you will find your throttle control cable maybe corroded and you can't close the throttle, Because the revs are so high it won't disengage the gear . If it works without the engine running all is good with the gear cable . Try disengaging the throttle cable then start the engine and put the lever in forward then reverse with closed throttle if you can engage forward and reverse at 500 -600 rpm everything is fine besides the throttle cable.
If I was you I would replace both cables .
If I was you I would replace both cables .
Having to rotate the prop is normal especially when shifting into reverse. That in itself is not a problem.
Reconnect the shift cable and see if the shift shaft moves when the cable moves. You will need two sets of hands to do this correctly. Also check that the fitting that holds the cable to the motor is not broken/undone. If it is, the whole cab;e moves instead of just the wire core.
One more thing: If the internal wire core or outer sheath id worn, the cable may bind under load but not when disconnected.
One thing you didn't mention as far as I recall. When you couldn't get out of gear or lower idle, did the handle of the control move to the neutral as it normally would or was it stuck?
The handle of the controle was stuck it would not go to neutral. But as soon as I turned the motor off I was able to return the controle lever to the neutral position
Interesting!
That says that the lower unit had trouble getting out of gear but not into gear. I haven't seen such a case where it turned out it was the lower unit but I guess its possible. I am a bit stumped at this point and will see if I can find any info on the possible causes
I found several forums discussing a similar issue, hard to get into neutral. Most posts were about I/Os but the issue may apply. Some motors have a shift interrupter switch that basically cuts the motor off when you shift from a gear into neutral. The theory is that that pause reduces the forces on the dog clutch making it easier to disengage. I don't know if your motors have shift interrupters or sometimes called neutral switches. I do know for certain the the Mercury Optis have the switch and it has to be in the correct position for specific control cable positions. My OX66 does not have such a switch.
I would still inspect the linkage from the cable clevis hold-down to the shift shaft just to make sure all is working correctly
I would still inspect the linkage from the cable clevis hold-down to the shift shaft just to make sure all is working correctly
Update: The F225s do have a 'shift position switch' It could be out of adjustment, bad, or a wire is disconnected.
This may be the part
https://www.boats.net/product/yamaha/68F-8259F-00-00
I also read that there can error code in the YDS for a bad switch
This may be the part
https://www.boats.net/product/yamaha/68F-8259F-00-00
I also read that there can error code in the YDS for a bad switch
Thanks for all the replies. Everything seams to check out mechanically so I ordered a new switch that seasick was talking about. I'll post update when switch comes in
Switch came in the other day so I installed it an took it out today. That wasnt the problem but with further investigation while out on the water I did find the problem just not sure how to fix it. The throttle is sticking at the motor. Found this out by disconnecting the throttle cable at the motor an revving it with my hand and found that it wouldn't return to idle rpm. Anyone encountered this?
wrxhoon
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I'm not familiar with the 225 Yam, does it have a solenoid on the throttle? If yes that's what I would be looking at.
It turns out that there was a safety recall for 2002-2004 F225s for sticking throttles.. I suggest you contact Yamaha and ask about it. Sorry I didn't find this out sooner.
The recall number was 030149T but it shows as a closed case which I think means that Yamaha will not repair at this time. There were two recall phases,, one for sticking bushings in the throttle body and a follow up for binding ball joints in the linkage.
The recall number was 030149T but it shows as a closed case which I think means that Yamaha will not repair at this time. There were two recall phases,, one for sticking bushings in the throttle body and a follow up for binding ball joints in the linkage.
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