2004 257 - Head Operation

[jasgator5220]

So how does the head work on this thing? I know, dumb question. I have a 2004 257 w/ head inc. macerator. I can't seem to find the Y-valve. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance !

 

[DennisG01]

Depends on the exact type of "head" system you have. Do you have a pump-out deck plate? If not, you won't have a Y-valve as there would be no reason to select which direction the effluent travels. Either way, it can't be too hard to find... gotta be 25' one way or the other, you know? A good source to help you will also be your owner's manual - I'm sure the answer is there. You can download it on Grady's website, too.

 

[ocnslr]

I haven't seen a Y valve on a GW. Usually, the Y valve is located in the head discharge, to send the discharge to either the holding tank, or overboard. That is why USCG and other inspectors look for it to be locked or wired sahut when in no-discharge waters, so head discharge can not easily, or inadvertently, be sent overboard.

The GWs discharge to the head. No direct overboard option. From there, the macerator pump that is built-in to the Groco tank can be used to discharge to sea, through a seacock that needs to be opened, but only is suitable waters. OR, you simply open the deck pump-out connection and suck the contents of the holding tank out.

Most folks do not venture out to where they can legally pump out the holding tank, and GW seems to consistently install 10-gal holding tanks, so frequent trips to a pump-out facility are needed. Many fuel docks have this available, usually free or at minimal fee for fuel purchasers.

The first time our built-in macerator pump died, I replaced that entire Groco tank with a 15-gal Groco SweetTank. It has an air manifold and gets constant air circulation, so have never added any chemicals in 12 years. When the macerator pump died the second time, I simply dropped in an entire new upper assembly from Groco, i.e. pump, sensors, connectors, all on a bronze plate.

Many GW owners have set up external macerator pumps, still discharging to the OEM seacock.

Brian

 

[DennisG01]

I'm only assuming at this point (hence why I was asking for more info on the type of head he has), but I'm thinking he may only have a simple porta-potty with some combo of pump-out/mac.

 

[Fishtales]

If a saltwater manual pump system, there is in inlet seacock that allows you to pump seawater into the toilet and waste to the tank. As Brian indicated you can either use the macerator to overboard discharge if in legal water or have it pumped out via a pump station usually through a chrome waste access port on the deck. You have to open a 2nd waste seacock either one of these.

If a freshwater auto pump system, pretty much the same except you are using house water (system needs to be pressurized). There is no inlet seacock for this system only the waste seacock.

Hope this helps.

 

[glacierbaze]

Not a GW, but on my last boat with head(Vacuflush), there was no direct overboard option. Everything went into the holding tank. After that tank, there was a macerator pump, and then a Y valve which selected pump out port, or overboard pump out via macerator and thru hull at the waterline aft. FW system, no seacocks involved.
I believe the pump out port also used the macerator to pump waste out, rather than sucking it out. Never used that, always plenty of opportunity to pump treated waste offshore.

 

[Fishtales]

I have the vacuflush on my GW and it is as described.

 

[Legend]

The only Grady White I have seen a Y valve with the head was on a Gulfstreram. If I remember correctly it was a modified porta potty with the option of discharge overboard or pump out and you would set the y valve accordingly.

 

[jasgator5220]

It's odd, the manual says to

I'm only assuming at this point (hence why I was asking for more info on the type of head he has), but I'm thinking he may only have a simple porta-potty with some combo of pump-out/mac.

That's right . . . I have a small sanipottie that is plumbed directly to a Jabsco macerator pump. After some investigation I see that the Jabsco pump is then plumbed directly to a thru hull with no seacock or valve of any sort. I'm a little concerned to see this. The directions my manual don't match what I'm seeing as there are instructions to open a seacock and turn a Y-Valve between overboard and pump out. I bought the boat used so maybe a little "home engineering" was used.

Now more concerning is I notice the pump is leaking and it doesn't appear to be grey water, but instead saltwater (the boat stays in the water). Given this, I think I'm going to need to haul it out and replace the pump. I don't think this is something that can be done in the water. Regardless, I'd also like to add a seacock. We rarely if ever use the head so I'd like to not worry about this thru hull.

 

[DennisG01]

Looking in your manual, it says the Y-Valve is on the aft wall inside the console/head area. Assuming you didn't miss that when you looked, I think you're correct in your "home engineering" line of thinking. The boat probably came from the factory with just the standard porta-potty... no mac or pump-out deck fitting. Also, since you don't have a seacock... yeah, definitely the mac was installed by a previous owner who didn't know what he was doing or was too cheap to install a device (seacock) that could keep the boat from sinking.

Continue with your plan... sooner than later, by the way. Get that seacock installed ASAP. Double check that - don't assume - should be bronze. Ideally, yes, this should be done out of the water.

But, here's another idea. Since it sounds like you don't really need the macerator (convert the porta-potty back to a standard one by capping where the hoses are attached to it), eliminate the macerator and instead of installing a seacock, just get a bronze cap and screw it onto the thru-hull. Cheaper, and perfectly acceptable - actually, more secure than a seacock. If you're comfortable with it, you "could" do this in the water. Get yourself a wax toilet bowl ring, teflon paste and the cap. When you remove the hose, shove the toilet bowl ring into the seacock - that will stop the flow of water. Tighten the cap onto the threads, but don't go all Superman on it as you don't want to stress the seal. The next time you haul out, tighten it a little more using thru-hull tightening tool on the outside. In fact, the next time you haul out, remove the thru-hull and reseal it for good measure... and also to get rid of the "previous owner" factor.

FYI... "head" water is called black water. Grey water is water that drains from sinks.

Can you post a pic of the existing thru-hull and the hose attached to it?

 

[glacierbaze]

You need to figure out whether you have freshwater or salt water going to your toilet. The through hull after the macerator is discharge. If you have saltwater, you have another through hull for supply. Hopefully there is a seacock there if you have salt water supply.

 

[DennisG01]

You need to figure out whether you have freshwater or salt water going to your toilet. The through hull after the macerator is discharge. If you have saltwater, you have another through hull for supply. Hopefully there is a seacock there if you have salt water supply.

He has a simple porta-potty. No supply water with that system. You fill it manually.

 

[jasgator5220]

I appreciate all of the replies . . . . definitely helpful.