2005 Islander with new df200 ap's and magical props

F

family affair

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2010
Messages
1,472
Reaction score
349
Points
83
Location
Ohio
Model
Islander
I started out with Solas (Suzuki) L3 Plus 15 ⅝ x 23 props. Traction was awful. I could only get them to bite if the engines were 100% tucked in. I could only slightly trim out before they would lose bite unless I was +35 mph.
Sent them back to Ken at Prop Gods. He suggested Mercury Eco Enertia - 16x23. Many people said these engines couldn't turn them, the pitch was too much, the pitch is actually different... blah, blah. WRONG!
Super efficient, amazing lift, amazing traction even in turns. For this set-up, Eco's are the real deal.
27-34 mph getting 2.3-2.4 with a moderate load myonly concern is with the moderate load I topped out at 50 mph and 5900 rpm. 6100 is max. The engine only has 5 hours. I'm not sure if more break in will give me more top end revs.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Hookup1 and SkunkBoat
Not surprised. They swing big props because of the 2.5:1 gear ratio. You could've tried 4 blade props but hey, you got it dialed in!
I run 4 x 15.25 x22 on my 265 express. Heavier, wider boat. I still tuck them for the first 2 seconds to jump out of the hole then raise as I accelerate. Love the motors. I have 563 hrs in three seasons.

Don't worry about not reaching "max 6100" there is a range of 5500 to 6100 for a reason.
 
  • Like
Reactions: family affair
Every prop has it's pros/cons and will behave differently for different boats. I'm shocked the eco worked better with a larger diameter than the Solas. Initially I thought the issue was ventilation, so I thought the larger diameter would make it worse. It didn't because it was a 'traction" issue - at least that's what I was told.
What I really like about the eco with this setup is that it works well everywhere - so far. Great bite, great hole shot, great lift, great efficiency (across a broad rpm range) and great top end.
Skunk, great to see you've had good luck and have been happy with them.
By chance do you recall if you gained more top end as the engines broke in?
 
I've come to the conclusion that the Merc Eco Enertia is absolutely magic for this set up. Check out these numbers:
20230512_200844.jpg
20230512_180301.jpg

If that wasn't enough, check out how ridiculous this is! On plane at 12.6 mph!
20230512_200745.jpg
20230512_200753.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 20230512_200745.jpg
    20230512_200745.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 3
  • Like
Reactions: PointedRose and SkunkBoat
Oh, one more piece of knowledge from Ken that looks to be dead on. I've not heard this from anyone before, but it seems to have helped. He suggested Grady's tend to like the prop shafts ¾" closer than neutral. This enabled me to have a broader trim range and better cornering without losing bite. To my surprise it didn't hurt efficiency or top end.
 
family affair, Being a bit slower as I attempt to age gracefully, would you explain "prop shafts 3/4" closer than neutral" Thanks
 
It's simply toe. However toe in/out is often misinterpreted.
If the the engines are aligned where the distance between the center front of the lower units is the same as the distance between the prop shafts = neutral. From neutral, bring the prop shafts ¾" closer together.
 
family affair said:
Every prop has it's pros/cons and will behave differently for different boats. I'm shocked the eco worked better with a larger diameter than the Solas. Initially I thought the issue was ventilation, so I thought the larger diameter would make it worse. It didn't because it was a 'traction" issue - at least that's what I was told.
What I really like about the eco with this setup is that it works well everywhere - so far. Great bite, great hole shot, great lift, great efficiency (across a broad rpm range) and great top end.
Skunk, great to see you've had good luck and have been happy with them.
By chance do you recall if you gained more top end as the engines broke in?
Click to expand...
Family:
I recall dimly Skunk mentioned his MPG's went up after the Zukes broke in, but I don't remember him mentioning an increase in speed.

Hopefully, he'll see this and verify.

Glad your stoked about your powerplants. I can tell you're in freshwater by the wake.
 
  • Like
Reactions: family affair
family affair said:
It's simply toe. However toe in/out is often misinterpreted.
If the the engines are aligned where the distance between the center front of the lower units is the same as the distance between the prop shafts = neutral. From neutral, bring the prop shafts ¾" closer together.
Click to expand...
Yes I mentioned that in my df200 posts. Actually it worked well with the old ox66s too. Another way to explain it is “shorten or lengthen the tie bar”. It fixed the wandering at idle speed too. I’m at 28 1/2”
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: family affair
magicalbill said:
Family:
I recall dimly Skunk mentioned his MPG's went up after the Zukes broke in, but I don't remember him mentioning an increase in speed.

Hopefully, he'll see this and verify.

Glad your stoked about your powerplants. I can tell you're in freshwater by the wake.
Click to expand...
If I get zero improvements on anything at this point, I will have nothing to complain about. Performance so far has been exceptional across the board.
A lot of homework went into this set up. Hopefully it will help others get their Zukes dialed in.
How do you know it's fresh water? No foam?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ragged1 and magicalbill
SkunkBoat said:
Yes I mentioned that in my df200 posts. Actually it worked well with the old ox66s too. Another way to explain it is “shorten or lengthen the tie bar”. It fixed the wandering at idle speed too. I’m at 28 1/2”
Click to expand...
I didn't see that detail in your thread. Did you end up leaving your engines aligned that way? Did you encounter any drawbacks?
 
family affair said:
I didn't see that detail in your thread. Did you end up leaving your engines aligned that way? Did you encounter any drawbacks?
Click to expand...
I first did it with the ox66s to try and stop the wandering at slow speed. Damn boat would not go straight at idle speed. I heard about "toe out" and tried it. Just cranked the adjustment of the tie bar to make it longer. Motors are "28 on center" so I made the bar 28 1/2". It worked. Ran great. Did the same with the new zukes.

edit: I should clarify...the original Yammy tie bar was mounted from tiller to tiller (center to center) It was 28". I spread it to 28 1/2. The zukes are now using an HO6001 tie bar so it is spread to effectively add 1/2" of toe out

Having toe out..... (shafts being the heel) shafts pointed toward each other...makes the prop wash meet somewhere behind the boat. Can't remember the distance off top of my head...

I didn't try any farther to see if it helps or hurts. I was happy with the result and stuck with it.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: family affair
Skunk, did you remove the "fin" off your engine zinks? I planned to cut mine off. Word is it shouldn't matter.
 
family affair said:
Skunk, did you remove the "fin" off your engine zinks? I planned to cut mine off. Word is it shouldn't matter.
Click to expand...
On the zukes the fin is not a "zinc" or anode. They are plastic. I left them on and set straight. I see no benefit in cutting them. You could remove them. Not sure what the empty space would do.
 
Is your port motor set to counter-rotate? You have APs right? I get confused...someone here was talking about getting mechanical zukes...
 
Ah. Didn't know it was plastic. They are set "straight" but should probably be turned a little.
Yes, AP's. Single lever throttle control in the slop is worth the price of admission IMO.
 
I guess if 200's push the boat along at over 50 mph, then the 150's mentioned in the other post shouldn't be a problem on the same boat. I also confirmed today that my neighbor's 2005 GW 270 Islander has F150's on them as well...

IMG_2718.jpeg
 
Last edited:
family affair said:
If I get zero improvements on anything at this point, I will have nothing to complain about. Performance so far has been exceptional across the board.
A lot of homework went into this set up. Hopefully it will help others get their Zukes dialed in.
How do you know it's fresh water? No foam?
Click to expand...
Correct. In saltwater, the residual foam the wakes leaves stays around longer, whereas the freshwater foam will dissipate much more quickly. You can tell the same thing by viewing breaking waves on a beach. You can always tell the Great Lakes beaches by:
A.) How close the waves are together.
B.) The rapid dissolving of the foam.

Besides, I knew you were on lake Erie from exchanges we've had in the past, but I wanted to save this 'till last...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.