2006 Marlin: what to watch out for?

[mr_mbuna]

I’m buying a 2006 GW Marlin 300 in a couple weeks. Survey is scheduled for next week. What should I (or the surveyor) look out for on these boats?

I know to check for corrosion of the transom bang cap and water intrusion to the transom. I read on there about balsa wood above the waterline on the sides which can rot. What else?

The boat has lived it’s life on a lift, outdoors but out of the water. It has 1200 hours on each of its Yamaha 250s. The only disclosed issue is that the hot water heater is not working. It is equipped with AC but no onboard generator.

 

[seasick]

In addition to what you mentioned, an inspection of the motors for exhaust corrosion is advised, Moisture readings should be taken in all areas of the hull, not just the transon. Make a note of the meter used for that job. All locker lids/hatches should be inspected, especially the edges. Some moisture is normal. The survey should also include testing of every thing electrical or mechanical. Also check electronic and age of things like MFDs. Check all upholstery and canvas. All these things are expensive to replace. Your surveyor most likely won't do that inspection, you will need to get a mechanic familiar with the process. A full motor inspection would include other mechanicals also like lower unit check for leaks ( pressure/vacuum test) and compression test.

 

[Fishtales]

Camera scope the engine exhaust, do a compression test and check the lower unit oil for water. I had my exhausts and recommended parts replaced (new coating) at 600H on 2005 F250s. The coating was breaking down in many areas and you could see shiny base metal. A good surveyor will ensure all systems are in working order. Look for any soft spots on the decks and hatches. If you can, pull the aft deck up, check the coring and give the bilge a good examination. Check engine bolts on the transom (inside and out) for any cracks or discoloration. Ensure hydraulic power assist steering unit works well (if equipped). Run the genny unloaded and fully loaded. Check condition of windlass, rode and type of anchor for your area. Zip up enclosure and ensure all fits/zippers work and wear acceptable. $3K to replace that if needed. Check hardtop for any signs of water or core softness. Check scupper hoses to ensure they are not dry rotted. Check zincs on engines and center of blade of the bow thruster (if equipped) - often this doesn't get changed and then the thruster blades corrode and sometimes fall off.
Most systems are fairly simple to address on the boat. So if everything works, you should be able to keep on top of her fairly easily.

 

[mr_mbuna]

Thank you!

 

[el jefe]

Check the seacock pulls.

 

[seasick]

Interesting topic. If the boat is in the water I would not exercise any seacocks by myself. I guess I am a bit paranoid.
The surveyor should get the seller's permission to test systems and the surveyor should do the testing. He or she should have the appropriate insurance should something damaging occur.
Likewise I would hesitate to start a gen set for the same reason I mentioned earlier. That task would most likely require opening sea cocks.

 

[eppem]

Open up the bilge access under the aft sleeper. If it’s clean, the boat is well taken care. That’s my litmus test. Clean bilge = clean boat. Check under all the cuddy cushions for mold.

 

[mr_mbuna]

Is that a hatch you have to cut caulk lines to open? Sorry, I'm not familiar with the Marlin yet.

 

[MA208]

Is that a hatch you have to cut caulk lines to open? Sorry, I'm not familiar with the Marlin yet.

Aft deck has access hatch to the generator under the seat. Also fuel selector handles are in there. That one just opens. Immediately forward is a large deck hatch that would need to be resealed if opened. Can open deck plates on that hatch where seacocks are and have. Look around though.

 

[Fishtales]

Is that a hatch you have to cut caulk lines to open? Sorry, I'm not familiar with the Marlin yet.

Yes, aft hatch does have a vertical fold down door for access to the bilge under the aft seat. The deck comes out, but you have to cut the caulk. Maybe it is already cut as usually this is done for winter maintenance. If not, well maybe cut if you are planning to buy. It costs about $8 for a tube of GE Almond Silicone caulk to get it new.