2007 306 Bimini - aft Bilge replacement

[SoFLGrady306]

It appears during the last storm, something has happened to my aft bilge pump, possibly the float switch.

Now i need to replace it.

it is buried deep in the bottom of the boat, near the transom, and I cannot figure out how GW installed this thing.

Anyone has any experience with this task on a 306 or similar boat?

Any help / advice / insight is greatly appreciated.

 

[glacierbaze]

Check your inline fuses, where the bilge pumps connect to the battery switch. Brown wire/pink stripe. They installed that pump in the hull before they put the cap on.

 

[SoFLGrady306]

I will do that.
We removed the canvas boat cover for the hurricane, confirmed the pumps were working, and rode out the storm.

when we went to put the cover back on 2 days ago (over a week post storm), I heard the bilge pump running, despite ZERO water in the aft bilge.

The main Batt 1 & 2 were OFF, but the pump was running constantly for at least a few days.

I noticed that the aft bilge switch at the helm was illuminated, despite the batts being OFF. I tried disconnecting the switch, but that did not turn the pump off.


I suspect the pump is now burned out. Regardless, it will need to be replaced at this point.

 

[glacierbaze]

Float switches are wired directly to the battery, via the battery switch, and you cannot turn them off at the helm panel, if the float is up. May have gotten some debris stuck under a float switch during the storm. Try flushing it out with the hose. Can you visually see that the float is up or down? If on a trailer, I would fill the bilge with water until the float is up, and see if the pump works.

 

[wspitler]

Float switches are wired directly to the battery, via the battery switch, and you cannot turn them off at the helm panel, if the float is up. May have gotten some debris stuck under a float switch during the storm. Try flushing it out with the hose. Can you visually see that the float is up or down? If on a trailer, I would fill the bilge with water until the float is up, and see if the pump works.

Minor correction, most manufacturers, including GW wire the bilge pump/float directly to the battery (buss) and not through the battery switch. You want the auto function to work, regardless of battery switch position.

 

[glacierbaze]

I have only had three Grady’s, and the newest is a 2000, but they have all been wired this way.

 

[wspitler]

That appears to be wired directly to the battery circuit wise., but I understand now why you said via the battery switch. Can’t tell for sure. In other words it is hot all the time and position of the battery switch does not turn the bilge pump off. They just use the terminal on the switch that is connected directly to the battery. The bilge pump should function regardless of battery switch position.

 

[DennisG01]

Correct - either direct to the battery or indirectly to the battery through the battery switch, using the supply cable - in other words, the battery cable the goes from the battery to the terminal on the switch.

 

[DennisG01]

SoFl, did the pump ACTUALLY run for a couple days straight... or are you assuming that? If just assuming, as mentioned above, try "freeing" the float switch. A blast from a hose could work.

Otherwise, if there's nothing you can remove to get to the float/pump and you can't get to it with maybe just one hand (working blind is common with boats), then you might want to put a new setup in a slightly more accessible location.