2014 F250 XA shutting off

[Scout3a]

Ok so here’s my headache. I bought a used F250 with around 800 hours on it. Put it on the boat it ran great for a few runs. The other day while running at 4K RPM it started to bog down until I back off the throttle. It kept doing it.
Here’s what I did in order to see if I can correct the issue.
1. Change the VST filter and F filter on that tank. Ran the boat on a separate fuel tank it still knocked out.
2. changed the fuel pump in the VST tank
3. Changed the low pressure pump outside of that tank.
4. Ran the boat with open caps off the gas tank to make sure it wasn’t a venting issue.

if I pump the primer bulb it’s gets hard and holds gas. It will idle for a little while then knock out. I confused as what to do next.
Any help at this point is appreciated.

 

[Halfhitch]

If, when it bogs down, will it come back to life if someone pumps the primer bulb? Additionally, when it stalls, is the primer bulb sucked flat?

 

[Mustang65fbk]

As Halfhitch suggested... I've had two issues with primer bulbs that would bog down the motors on two different boats, one of them was mine and the other was my uncle's boat. The first time on my uncle's boat, the primer bulbs and/or fuel lines had pinholes in them that were allowing air into the lines to where it wouldn't be able to pump the gasoline through and keep the pressure. We fixed that by getting a couple new fuel lines and never had the issue again. Second time was on one of the Arima's that I had before where the fuel line actually broke off between the primer bulb and the rest of the line. Fortunately, my old man was on the boat with me and to where he just sat back at the stern and pumped the primer bulb every few minutes until we got the boat back in. After swapping out the old fuel line with a new one, we again fixed the issue.

 

[Scout3a]

If, when it bogs down, will it come back to life if someone pumps the primer bulb? Additionally, when it stalls, is the primer bulb sucked flat?

It will come back to life once the bull is primed. The bulb doesn’t go flat but it’s not rock solid.

 

[DennisG01]

Start the engine. Stop the engine. Drain the VST tank and make a note of the amount of fuel that comes out.

Prime it up again and run the engine till it bogs out. Drain the VST tank and compare.

The logical thing is that the VST tank is running out of fuel - but doing that should verify and at least get us going down the right path.

How/where did you plumb the portable tank in and did you use any of the boat's hoses for that?

You're replacing some expensive items without knowing they're bad and just taking a guess. Let's try to avoid guessing

 

[Mustang65fbk]

Try replacing the bulb/fuel line... it sounds like you've got air inside the line that isn't pushing the fuel through until you manually pump it.

 

[seasick]

It's easier to use a fuel pressure gauge to see if the motor isn't getting gas.
When you ran on the separate tank, where did you connect it to the motor.
Also answer this question: Is the on the motor gas filter a clear bowl? If so, remove it and reinstall making sure that the rim of the bowl inserts into the mount correctly. This bowls tend to change shape a bit and may not seat well causing an air leak

 

[Scout3a]

Try replacing the bulb/fuel line... it sounds like you've got air inside the line that isn't pushing the fuel through until you manually pump it.

Thanks, is there a way to air bleed that line or just replace it?

 

[wspitler]

You didn’t mention that you checked the fuel water separator. It could be something as simple as water in the fuel and you may not have noticed it when changing the VST components. I always pour my fuel water separators into a glass jar and look for clear and bright fuel with no water layer.

 

[Mustang65fbk]

Thanks, is there a way to air bleed that line or just replace it?

You could always try spraying some water on the line or submerging it in water, then squeezing the primer bulb and see if you can spot any air bubbles coming out of either the line or the primer bulb? Air bubbles would be a dead giveaway that you've got pinholes in the line allowing air into the system. Otherwise, the fuel line is likely less than $100 at your local dealer and the motor is now almost 10 years old. I'd think the money spent would be cheap insurance, even if just having it as a spare onboard.

 

[Scout3a]

Thank you everyone for your help on this. I feel a little dumb but after changing pretty much everything for fuel issues. I made the bonehead move of not check the 10amp fuse on the motor which was blown. I replaced it and we’re back at running conditions.
Thanks again everyone.

 

[DennisG01]

Thank you everyone for your help on this. I feel a little dumb but after changing pretty much everything for fuel issues. I made the bonehead move of not check the 10amp fuse on the motor which was blown. I replaced it and we’re back at running conditions.
Thanks again everyone.

What was the fuse for?

 

[Scout3a]

What was the fuse for?

The low pressure fuel pump

 

[Scout3a]

The low pressure fuel pump

I replaced the pump and never checked the fuse. It must have blown when the previous pump was going bad. I read something about that the low pressure pump, when it starts to go bad it’s over worked and calls for more electric. That’s what cause the fuse to blow.

 

[DennisG01]

OK, thanks. Makes sense - that's where I was going with the "diagnosing" I was asking you to do.