2020 235 Freedom/Yamaha/Battery Issues

[Windy50]

So this happened this weekend: Does anybody have any ideas before I take issue to Yamaha dealer. Engine is still under warranty but not sure if this is the culprit.

F/LF300A (V6 4.2L) DEC

F300XCA 0119

• Installed new NOCO Genius 5x2 battery charger (No previous battery issues). Charger reporting both batteries fully charged after about 20 mins.
• Returned to boat 2 hours later. Did not check battery status.
• Started engine and travelled across river to pump out toilet.
• Stayed 10 mins to pump out toilet.
• Engine wouldn’t start. Very rapid clicking noises. This occurs on Battery switches 1, 2 and 1+2. Outboard would not trim up or down. Could hear slight noises from engine area when trying to trim engine. Radio and GPS come on.
• Remove cowling and flywheel cover. Starter motor cogs are up and engaged with flywheel (Supposed to be down and not engaged when engine is not running?).
• Manually rotated flywheel and disengage starting motor. Engine still does not start.
• Check battery voltage (14.4 and 14.5) No battery tester available at this point.
• Try 2 different battery jump starters. Engine would not start. Trim does not work (Same noises).
• After 5 mins (with battery jump starter attached) engine trim unexpectedly works.
• Engine starts (Not sure what battery we start it from).
• Could not put back flywheel cover and cowling while engine running so we stop engine.
• Replace covers. Engine does not start.
• Get towed back across river.
• I return home and get my battery load tester (digital). Both batteries are AGM 580 CCA.
• Battery 1 – 334 CCA (Tester says to charge)
• Battery 2 – 771 CCA (Tester says good)
• Select Battery 2. Trim works. Engine starts.

Do not believe it is a battery issue (How is #5 explained?)
Relay?

 

[seasick]

Did you remove any battery cables when you added the charger? Take a look for a jumper cable (battery cable size) that connects the negative of battery 1 to battery 2 It is easy to miss it when reconnecting.

 

[DennisG01]

I'd also be checking all of the connections at the battery and the battery switch. If a connection is loose, it may pass volts... but not enough amps for certain items. Also check at the starter.

Your batteries should not test at 14+V without the engine running or battery charger on. Either you have a flaky voltmeter or you read it wrong.

What is the CCA requirement for your engine? 580 sounds light.

How can a 580CCA battery test at 771CCA? Something is amiss there.

There seems to be something wrong with your various readings?

 

[SkunkBoat]

connections.

 

[Windy50]

I'd also be checking all of the connections at the battery and the battery switch. If a connection is loose, it may pass volts... but not enough amps for certain items. Also check at the starter.

Your batteries should not test at 14+V without the engine running or battery charger on. Either you have a flaky voltmeter or you read it wrong.

What is the CCA requirement for your engine? 580 sounds light.

How can a 580CCA battery test at 771CCA? Something is amiss there.

There seems to be something wrong with your various readings?

You are correct. I mis-typed the voltages (12.4 and 12.5). The CCA rating for the batteries is for zero Deg F. Maybe the CCA I am recording does not account for temperature. My digital tester frequently returns CCA measurements larger than the battery rating. I believe this is normal in a healthy battery at ambient temperature, but I may be wrong. I checked the recommended CCA for the engine and the user manual says 680-1150 CCA, higher than the 580 rating on my batteries, so I learned something there. I am sure these are the original batteries installed when the boat was new (Deka Intimidator). My GW user manual mentions these specific batteries. Why would GW spec these batteries knowing the Yamaha 300 is the only engine supplied with this model?

Anyway, was trying to troubleshoot tonight. Looking for loose connections. I fiddled with the power assist hydraulic pump (See picture). Went back to the helm and the engine tilt trim worked and the engine started right up. Both batteries worked trim tilt. (Confirm not a battery issue) Question: Is this the same hydraulic pump for the engine trim tilt even though its labelled power assist steering? I don't believe I have seen another (except the pump for the trim tabs). This would explain the intermittent trim tilt malfunction. The connection I fiddled with is the top right in the picture. It seems to be a moulded connection with no way of disconnecting. Does this sound like a legitimate source of the problem?

 

[DennisG01]

No, that is your steering pump. It is completely different than power trim. Your trim pump is mounted inside the engine bracket.

I'm not convinced you eliminated both batteries. You mentioned you load tested one of them at 334CCA. That's not good. This is assuming you have a reliable load tester and are doing it correctly, of course.

FYI, 12.4 and 12.5 is getting on the low side of "passable". Again, though... assuming you did it correctly.