My anchor chain is getting stuck in the well which stops it from deploying when dropping the anchor. Has anyone else had this issue on the 306 and if so what was the fix? I am thinking off putting foam into the bottom of the well to raise it. 
2021 306 Canyon Anchor Chain
- Thread starter ACV
- Start date
Hookup1
GreatGrady Captain
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2007
- Messages
- 3,035
- Reaction score
- 855
- Points
- 113
- Age
- 70
- Location
- Cape May, NJ
- Model
- Islander
Usually the problem is too much anchor line in the anchor locker. Spread the line out in the locker and see if it works better. Verify you have the correct chain to match the windlass you have too.
The boat only had 12ft of chain which is totally inadequate so I added some. There is only about 150 ft rope so not much. The well slants aft which it is gathering into when under way and hence is trapping the chain.
Thought 1:
you added chain? Did you check that the added chain is the correct spec for your windlass? Did you keep the old chain and add more chain to it? If so how did you splice the new chain and rode to the old chain.
Thought 2;
As your line (not chain) ages it tends to get stiffer. The stiffer line does not lay flat as easily as more pliant line does. It tends to pile up and will reduce the downward pull from the windlass capstan/ That r3esults in line slip and capstan jamming. Adding foam to raise the bottom of the well will only make your problem worse. Stiff line often can be softened by rinsing it and soaking it over night in a pail/tub of warm water and fabric softener. If the line won't soften, it's time for new line and chain if you don't wan to deal with splicing
you added chain? Did you check that the added chain is the correct spec for your windlass? Did you keep the old chain and add more chain to it? If so how did you splice the new chain and rode to the old chain.
Thought 2;
As your line (not chain) ages it tends to get stiffer. The stiffer line does not lay flat as easily as more pliant line does. It tends to pile up and will reduce the downward pull from the windlass capstan/ That r3esults in line slip and capstan jamming. Adding foam to raise the bottom of the well will only make your problem worse. Stiff line often can be softened by rinsing it and soaking it over night in a pail/tub of warm water and fabric softener. If the line won't soften, it's time for new line and chain if you don't wan to deal with splicing
Hookup1
GreatGrady Captain
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2007
- Messages
- 3,035
- Reaction score
- 855
- Points
- 113
- Age
- 70
- Location
- Cape May, NJ
- Model
- Islander
Just replaced my 1/2" 8-plait 200' anchor rode with a new Lewmar rode. Old line was stiff and so tight it was not spliceable anymore. Took it out to reverse it and other end was worse - I must have reversed it before. Old one was about 250' but it was too much for my anchor locker. If I put most of it out I could retrieve most of it but it would stop feeding. I would have to go up on bow and shuffle the line around. Especially bad at the rope/chain splice. The windlass like have the line/chain dropping down into locker.
Last edited:
The windlass lifts the chain straight up out of the anchor locker, the weight of the anchor deploys the chain from the windlass to the water. Which side of the windless is your problem on? What is the weight of your anchor, sounds like you might be using a lightweight such as a Fortress.
If your windlass will raise the anchor, and 12 feet of chain from off the bottom, it should have no problem lifting three or 4 feet of chain out of your anchor locker. When my old Lewmar gets jammed on that side of the windlass, it is a solid thump that feels like it’s going to rip a hole in the deck.
If your windlass will raise the anchor, and 12 feet of chain from off the bottom, it should have no problem lifting three or 4 feet of chain out of your anchor locker. When my old Lewmar gets jammed on that side of the windlass, it is a solid thump that feels like it’s going to rip a hole in the deck.
Last edited:
I am a bit confused. Is the problem during deployment or during retrieving? Can you post a picture of your splice especially if that is where the line hangs up.
Your windlass specs should include a number for the amount of drop you need to have in your locker. Let's say it is 10 inches. If your line piles up closer to the windlass than the specified minimum your windlass may not work correctly. If the pile of line is the issue, retrieving should have more issues than deploying ( assuming the line is not super stiff).
If you problem occurs when the splice gets to the windlass, most likely your splice needs to be reworked, If the jamming occurs mostly when the chain is being fed through the capstan, then your chain type may not be correct for your capstan.
It is possible that your locker is too small for the amount of line. You can pull out 50 feet or so of the line and leave it on the deck temporarily to see if the windlass works better.
Just to cover all bases, if your model windlass has a spring loaded control arm ( as many of the Lewmars do) check to see that it is operating correctly.
There should be a chain type code marking on the chain links, What does it say? If when the chain is being run through the capstan, you see the links popping out and in or the control lever is really jumping in and out, your chain is probably incorrect spec.
Your windlass specs should include a number for the amount of drop you need to have in your locker. Let's say it is 10 inches. If your line piles up closer to the windlass than the specified minimum your windlass may not work correctly. If the pile of line is the issue, retrieving should have more issues than deploying ( assuming the line is not super stiff).
If you problem occurs when the splice gets to the windlass, most likely your splice needs to be reworked, If the jamming occurs mostly when the chain is being fed through the capstan, then your chain type may not be correct for your capstan.
It is possible that your locker is too small for the amount of line. You can pull out 50 feet or so of the line and leave it on the deck temporarily to see if the windlass works better.
Just to cover all bases, if your model windlass has a spring loaded control arm ( as many of the Lewmars do) check to see that it is operating correctly.
There should be a chain type code marking on the chain links, What does it say? If when the chain is being run through the capstan, you see the links popping out and in or the control lever is really jumping in and out, your chain is probably incorrect spec.
Last edited:
Yes, need a better explanation of, “My anchor chain is getting stuck in the well“. On a previous tournament, I had two or 3 inches of threaded U-bolt sticking into the anchor locker from the bow eye, and sometimes the chain or rode would catch on it. I fixed that problem with a short piece of thick walled rubber tubing, connecting the twothreaded rods.
Retrieving the chain works fine. In the initial stages of releasing the chain under its own weight the chain is getting snagged inside the chain locker. Basically, the locker has a molded recess to the aft below the access hatch and it seems like the chain is falling back on itself and jams. It has to be manually pulled from the access hatch, then once it gets going its ok. I have raised the floor of the anchor locker with some wood to reduce the aft recess and it appears to have resolved the prolem.
Sardinia306Canyon
GreatGrady Captain
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2023
- Messages
- 523
- Reaction score
- 101
- Points
- 43
- Age
- 60
- Location
- Island of Sardinia
- Model
- Canyon 306
My 306 Canyon has only chain, probably 100ft and it works flawless.
A swivel between anchor and chain helps with reducing/eliminating chain/line torsion when pulling up the anchor and torsion can be a reason of snagging chain.
A wired shaped "hill" of rode and chain in the chain locker is a reason as well, and as it seems you fixed that changing shape raising the chain locker floor. .
Chris
A swivel between anchor and chain helps with reducing/eliminating chain/line torsion when pulling up the anchor and torsion can be a reason of snagging chain.
A wired shaped "hill" of rode and chain in the chain locker is a reason as well, and as it seems you fixed that changing shape raising the chain locker floor. .
Chris
I am glad that adding that block of wood helped but for the life of me I don't understand what was going on.If you were to deploy all your line and then retrieve it, where does the line end up in the locker. Does it not fill that recessed section but the chain does? Now when you deploy what is the chain getting hung up on, itself?
Do you have a free fall model of windlass?
All I can think of is that the chain lays up aft in the locker and the angle of it to the windlass feed is off center causing the chain to bind when it gets to the hole in the deck and/or the windlass. What do you think the height is from the underside of the winch mount to the top of the pile of rope and chain?
Do you have a free fall model of windlass?
All I can think of is that the chain lays up aft in the locker and the angle of it to the windlass feed is off center causing the chain to bind when it gets to the hole in the deck and/or the windlass. What do you think the height is from the underside of the winch mount to the top of the pile of rope and chain?