228 'battery isolator switch'?

dandorgan

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There is a 100A breaker in the aft port side battery compartment that has been in the '0' position since I got the boat new last year. As far as I can tell, all systems are operating normally. I asked Grady White about it an the replied that it was a battery isolator switch. I am including a photo. Anyone know anything about this?
Thanks,
Dan Dorgan

Edit: Correction, it was described as an engine isolator switch.
 

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DennisG01

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That's a heavy duty circuit breaker. What do the two wires go to?

FYI... looks like you have a bunch of wires/cables not attached to your batteries (or properly).
 

dandorgan

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There is a cable from a battery positive terminal to one side of the breaker. The other side disappears under the live well, destination unknown. A much more aggressive chase would be necessary to trace it, and I admit that it being OFF, and causing no known problems allowed me to let it slide. The photo was taken while I was working on a float switch problem for the aft bilge pump. If I have to remove the livewell to get to the float switch, I may be able to trace the cable. I was just hoping that someone may know what it is for. Seems like an unusual thing to have and I can't even think of anything that might be prewired with a 100A breaker...trolling motor, anchor winch, etc.?
 

DennisG01

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You might be able to figure it out by looking at the wiring diagrams in your manual. But I find it odd, anymore, that a manufacturer would go to the expense of pre-wiring for an optional accessory that the boat doesn't have. That switch, the associated wiring and the labor adds up quick when you're building a bunch of boats. Have you had the boat since new, or could a previous owner have added it?

For now, I'd take the extra precaution of removing the cable from the battery - if you can't find out any better information, that is.
 

Ky Grady

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Concerning your livewell and float switch access, yes it needs to come out to get to it in the bottom of the bilge.
20190831_133613.jpg
 

dandorgan

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Thanks for your replies.
I have wiring and plumbing diagrams for the boat, but this doesn't appear on them, or on any other documentation I have at hand.
As to the float switch, I have been waiting for a break in the Alabama heat to take that on. KY Grady, was it any problem to pull the live well?
For now, I have the fuse to the float switch pulled so the bilge pump will only run on manual so I need to pay attention when on the water. Most of the time the boat is on the lift and the forward pump should take care of an unusual collection of rain water. Typically get very little bilge water from rain since I made covers for the drink holders near the live well.
 

Ky Grady

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Remove the 4 screws in the back on the hinges, pop the hydraulic cylinder off, remove lid, cut silicone around perimeter of the tank, remove 6 screws, loosen clamps on the fill and drain hoses, remove hoses, lift tank out. Not a bad job.
 

Fishtales

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Could it be a feed for a windlass or some other option that could be dealer installed?
 

dandorgan

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Ky Grady. I figured that would be about the way it would go...sometimes things that should be straightforward have hidden challenges. I am glad to hear that you dealt with it without undue stress.
Fishtales. I assumed that to be the case, but I can't think of anything that powerful you would put on a 22' boat.
 

Ky Grady

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Yep, pretty straightforward, hardest part is probably getting the hoses loose.
 

dandorgan

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Upd.ate. I am always disappointed when someone bring a question to a forum and never reveals the ultimate resolution. I have heard from Grady White and am well pleased with their reply...

"Begin quote:

Dan,

When you start the engine, the cranking cable coming off the battery switch sends power to turn over the engine from the selected battery (usually Stbd 1). While the engine is running, the engine alternator sends power back to the starting battery (Stbd bank 1) thru that same cranking lead. Since the battery switch is in the recommended Batt 1 (STBD) position, Batt 2 (PORT) is not getting any power fed to it.

The Engine Isolator is connected to the engine thru the rigging tube (behind the livewell on your boat), and allows the engine’s alternator to divert part of its power output to Batt 2, to help maintain its level of charge, while still sending the majority of it’s current to Batt 1. That way if Batt 1 ever were to fail, Batt 2 will always be in ready standby to provide power to get you back into port. This is also why we don’t recommend using the BOTH position of the battery switch, except in emergencies, as it can eliminate having a backup battery.

So keeping this breaker on is important, except when performing maintenance on the engine. Hope this helps clarify the situation. Let us know if you need anything else!

Sincerely,

Cameron Merrow

CPO, USN-Ret

End Quote


I have not been able to check this out on the boat yet, but am confident it will be as Chief Merrow has described. I have also suggested that Grady may want to update the documentation for this boat and, I assume others.
 

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Ky Grady

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Thanks for the follow up. It does get old answering questions and never get a reply of what fixed their issue. We try to help the best we can on here.
 

dandorgan

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SkunkBoat,
This is a 2018 Seafarer 228 with a Yamaha F300 outboard. Used to have a 1987 Seafarer with a Mercruiser I/O that had no such feature.
Dan
 

dandorgan

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Ky Grady,
I am embarrased to admit that I haven't given it a good run at full speed. I have, however, run in the high 40's and am confident that it will break 50 on a calm day, or with a bolder skipper. It is nice to have the power offshore (Gulf of Mexico) with a crew of five, lots of ice and diving gear, in a heavy chop. Enough power for a younger man.
 

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This is a 2018 Seafarer 228 with a Yamaha F300 outboard. Used to have a 1987 Seafarer with a Mercruiser I/O that had no such feature.
Dan

Just curious for future reference...
Is the "Engine Isolator" built into the motor? Do you have a "third" wire from the motor? or is there a separate isolator unit between the crank wire and the batteries?

Asking because I use the "AUX Charging" wires from my ox66s to charge the House bank but there is no breaker inline.(there are fuses in the motors).
Basically, Yamaha built an isolator into the motors and added a third "AUX" wire to the Cranking cable.

From a safety standpoint it is probably best to have a breaker/fuse very near to the House battery....and Start battery for that matter....
Outboards have always gotten away with having fuses in the motor, which puts them 6-10 ft from the battery.

Ive seen I/Os with a battery isolator between the alternator and Bat1/Bat2 and there was a fuse on each.
 

dandorgan

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I have no personal knowledge of this beyond what I received from Grady. I believe it is as you describe; an aux charging line from the motor, isolated in the motor, with an overload breaker/switch near the #2 battery. I have seen no freestanding isolators or combiners installed in the boat. In fact, I was surprised that there were none, and not realizing the purpose of the engine isolator switch, I have been alternating batteries as I did on the old boat, and switching them half way through a long day to try to keep both fully charged.
Should I learn anything more once I get to the boat, I shall post it here.
Dan
 

Halfhitch

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I still am doing the switching from "Batt 1" to "Batt 2" to keep them both charged as you have been. I recently repowered with a 4.2 liter 4stroke Yamaha, so if it has that auxiliary charge wire hid out somewhere, then I should be able to route that through a breaker to #2 on the Boston switch and all I would ever need to do is switch to #1 when running the boat and #1 and #2 batteries would stay topped up. If I understood what Grady said in their note. Am I on the correct page?