I do a lot of anchoring in fairly deep water, with an average 250 feet and use the Scotchman retrieve system. Have been looking at the 232 Gulf streams pulpit roller the chute type which carries a Bruce anchor perfectly. Looking for some measurements and pictures to all you 232 owners. Is the 228 pulpit smaller than the 232 . any help would be great
228 pulpit roller
- Thread starter wavetamer
- Start date
Not a direct answer to your question, but check out Windline anchor rollers. I don't know if they are the ones that made the rollers for Grady, but they are high quality. I do know that they make most of the rollers for Sea Ray.
Oh, THAT'S the style anchor roller you were referring to? I "think" that style is typically referred to as a "platform" anchor roller. BUT... is your pulpit cored? It seems like A LOT of work to go through when the standard style (sits on top) roller would work just as well and be easier to install... especially if you have to deal with the core.
FYI, that picture shows a plow anchor, not a Bruce.
FYI, that picture shows a plow anchor, not a Bruce.
Yes I know that is a plough its just a pic of the standard Grady chute roller , mine is a Bruce , doesn't matter its the roller dimensions im after , they are call chute type, I have the standard 228 roller which extents past the end of the pulpit, we use scotchman to pull our anchors because they are so deep, and with the roller extending past the end of the roller it puts a lot of stress on the pulpit, having the roller in the center of the pulpit takes away some of the loading, I can make one from SS
wavetamer said:
When performing the buoy retrieval act you should never let the line pull be applied to any bow pulpit. The method, requires that you pull in some slack forward of the pulpit and make the rode off to either the bow cleat or the forward quarter cleat, some call this the forward spring cleat. Personally I like the quarter cleat as it keeps the line away from crew better.In doing this you don't have to worry about over stressing your pulpit and its' attachment should you come up against a fouled anchor.
im sorry but every one pulls this way in the north, , I wasn't asking how to pull the anchor . I was asking about the roller, we have some times 450 feet of scope out with big currents and 20 foot swells the chute type of roller works better as it closer to the boat not another foot past the end of the pulpit when anchored
The "chute" type is the kind you already have (sometime also referred to as "fairlead"). Like a cattle chute - raised sides that guide the cattle through an area, not down into a hole. Now, it could be that the name has been misused in your area for so long that everyone around there just calls it by that.
Although I think that even the existing anchor roller is stronger than most would give it credit, including the pulpit being plenty strong... I agree with Half - use a cleat. A cleat is a much more robust anchor point for the retrieval. Also as Half mentioned, the midship cleat is a good idea, too. It's just a better attachment point, all around, for this job. I suppose an aft cleat would be at least as good, too.
As far as just "anchoring" goes, the actual depth makes little difference as to the load affected on the pulpit/roller. 450' of scope... I'm not sure what you mean there. Scope is a ratio of rode to depth. The more "scope" you have, the better - not the other way around. There are ZERO issues with anchoring where you do using your existing roller. I won't argue that there is LESS load put on the pulpit when using a platform mount since it's just plain physics that says there is, indeed, less stress. But that doesn't mean that it's a PROBLEM to use your existing roller setup. Also, look at it this way... boats much larger than yours use the same setup as you currently have and they don't have issues. And their platform isn't necessarily much bigger (some are the same exact size), especially considered to how much more their boat weighs.
If you still want to move forward, though...
-- You need to address rebuilding/fiberglassing the hole you cut out. Keep in mind if you don't make it look nice, it could affect the resale down the road (first impressions)
-- If you can build the darn thing yourself, what's the hold-up? Get 'er done. If you're making it yourself, design it around whatever size roller you want. Probably 2-1/2" to 3" for a small boat. But keep in mind that you don't have to do it the "Grady way" - their way is just one way of doing it. If you're confident in your manufacturing skills, then just figure it out and make it work. It's not rocket science.
-- Download the parts manual for a Gulfstream of the appropriate year. I imagine that should give the size of a replacement roller.
-- Google for "platform" or "plank" mount anchor roller. See what you find. I saw one by Anchorlift by using those terms.
Although I think that even the existing anchor roller is stronger than most would give it credit, including the pulpit being plenty strong... I agree with Half - use a cleat. A cleat is a much more robust anchor point for the retrieval. Also as Half mentioned, the midship cleat is a good idea, too. It's just a better attachment point, all around, for this job. I suppose an aft cleat would be at least as good, too.
As far as just "anchoring" goes, the actual depth makes little difference as to the load affected on the pulpit/roller. 450' of scope... I'm not sure what you mean there. Scope is a ratio of rode to depth. The more "scope" you have, the better - not the other way around. There are ZERO issues with anchoring where you do using your existing roller. I won't argue that there is LESS load put on the pulpit when using a platform mount since it's just plain physics that says there is, indeed, less stress. But that doesn't mean that it's a PROBLEM to use your existing roller setup. Also, look at it this way... boats much larger than yours use the same setup as you currently have and they don't have issues. And their platform isn't necessarily much bigger (some are the same exact size), especially considered to how much more their boat weighs.
If you still want to move forward, though...
-- You need to address rebuilding/fiberglassing the hole you cut out. Keep in mind if you don't make it look nice, it could affect the resale down the road (first impressions)
-- If you can build the darn thing yourself, what's the hold-up? Get 'er done. If you're making it yourself, design it around whatever size roller you want. Probably 2-1/2" to 3" for a small boat. But keep in mind that you don't have to do it the "Grady way" - their way is just one way of doing it. If you're confident in your manufacturing skills, then just figure it out and make it work. It's not rocket science.
-- Download the parts manual for a Gulfstream of the appropriate year. I imagine that should give the size of a replacement roller.
-- Google for "platform" or "plank" mount anchor roller. See what you find. I saw one by Anchorlift by using those terms.
Its actually grady who calls that roller on the 232 and larger vessels the chute and the fairlead is used on the 228. I must be miss understanding how you guys pull , you either pull from the stern or the bow, in a big swell there is no way im pulling from the side cleat, you will turtle your boat in a large swell. That is how a group was just killed doing exactly that. big water up here. any ways thanks for the intel. Grady has just sent me what I need and they recommend what we do up here in the north
Ha! Maybe Grady is wrong! 
I've always referred to them as I posted since that's what the manufacturer's of them refer to them as. Oh well. Moot point.
I get the idea of the retrieval method - it's a simple concept - but in "my" north, I don't think I've ever seen anyone use it. Never used it myself, but it's easy enough to understand. However, thinking more about this and in regards to using a midship cleat. I can understand your concern there - if the anchor would happen to drag on something, it's going to pull on the boat in a weird way. HOWEVER, wouldn't having the anchor line tied to the bow be even worse from that standpoint? The anchor would effectively have greater impact/leverage on the bow than it would at midship. Seems like the stern should be the safest way to do it... which means there's no need for you to spend any time/effort on this project. The line should be easy enough to pickup by just leaning over or using the boathook - wouldn't even have to go the bow to grab the line and walk it aft.
I've always referred to them as I posted since that's what the manufacturer's of them refer to them as. Oh well. Moot point.I get the idea of the retrieval method - it's a simple concept - but in "my" north, I don't think I've ever seen anyone use it. Never used it myself, but it's easy enough to understand. However, thinking more about this and in regards to using a midship cleat. I can understand your concern there - if the anchor would happen to drag on something, it's going to pull on the boat in a weird way. HOWEVER, wouldn't having the anchor line tied to the bow be even worse from that standpoint? The anchor would effectively have greater impact/leverage on the bow than it would at midship. Seems like the stern should be the safest way to do it... which means there's no need for you to spend any time/effort on this project. The line should be easy enough to pickup by just leaning over or using the boathook - wouldn't even have to go the bow to grab the line and walk it aft.
DennisGO1 have a look in the photo section at the 232 full restore, there is an anchor bow protector , cant really tell how its mounted , 5200 maybe ??
Wave, I looked in the 232 Photo Section, but didn't see it - although I'm admittedly not that good at navigating forums. However, I know what you're referring to -- a thin SS plate, that is pre-formed to wrap around the bow keel, just under the rubrail. Sometimes they come with double side foam tape on them. Yes, you can use 5200, but that I tend to shy away from that stuff in 99% of the cases. Too strong - it actually has very limited use on/around the boat. 4200 would be better, or LifeSeal LifeCaulk. Actually, even a mild adhesive caulk would do the job. Two-sided foam tape would be fine, too (3M makes good stuff - like the kind that holds car/truck mouldings onto the doors).
BUT, before you add that, play around with things to see if you really need it. When I had my Sea Ray Sundancer, the tip of the plow anchor is within about an inch or so of the bow keel, but as it's lowered/raised it is further from the keel since the keel starts to angle back. Plus, once the shank of the anchor contact the rollers, it keeps the anchor from swinging back towards the boat. Believe me, I kept that boat like it was in a showroom - if there was any thought in my mind that the anchor would cause damage, I would have done something about it. It might turn out that the plate is a good idea for your boat - but check things out real well before you spend the money.
BUT, before you add that, play around with things to see if you really need it. When I had my Sea Ray Sundancer, the tip of the plow anchor is within about an inch or so of the bow keel, but as it's lowered/raised it is further from the keel since the keel starts to angle back. Plus, once the shank of the anchor contact the rollers, it keeps the anchor from swinging back towards the boat. Believe me, I kept that boat like it was in a showroom - if there was any thought in my mind that the anchor would cause damage, I would have done something about it. It might turn out that the plate is a good idea for your boat - but check things out real well before you spend the money.