248 Voyager Cuddy hatch replacement

[Johnyrude200]

After several months I just purchased a 1996 Voyager. The boat is in all original condition with usual wear and will be getting a full rehab and new lease on life.

2 Questions:

1. The cuddy skylight window is broken on this boat (smashed). Any recommendations for a replacement, or should I just bring it down to a local glass company and have them make me a new one? I need to replace all 4 cabin windows too they are showing the old gassing/spidering. Guessing a glass company is the best route to go for these since they are simpler.

2. Boat is currently powered with twin 150 ETECS low hours. Im not going off shore, so Im considering switching to a single 300 with 50hp kicker.
What speeds have folks had with twins vs a single 300?

My boat has a bimini no hardtop…..so less weight.

Thanks again

 

[family affair]

No hardtop and 300 hp is a lot for that hull. With twin 2 strokes, expect low 50's for top end.
For whatever reason f300's don't provide the best top end in the 300 class. I would expect high 40s.

 

[Johnyrude200]

Thanks for the reply. I was reviewing the original owners manual/folder (which was still with the boat) and it says the boat is rated for 400hp. HOWEVER, the sales brochure says 350hp. I haven't seen this boat anywhere else listed with more than 250hp or twin 150's, and figured that was underpowered since you should never go below 75% of the max rating (great way to destroy motors).

The 300hp I'm putting on will be an ETEC, so any new feedback taking these factors under consideration?

Thanks

 

[family affair]

There was another member on here that did hang a 300 gen 1 etec on a Voyager years ago. I'm not sure if he provided much feedback.
My only input would be why an Etec 300? There are so many other better options IMO that don't break the bank.

 

[Johnyrude200]

I own a marina that specializes in Evinrude, and can do all the work in house, and it already has twin 150 ETECS, so it simplifies the repower.

So I have a unique position to help keep things affordable. I am a 2-stroke guy so my opinion is biased toward that given I work on them full time, and help customers with all the other brands too.

Thanks for your help, Ill try to dig more on the forum seafch feature to find that other post.

Any recommendations on the window repairs?

 

[family affair]

In the case of the Etec, carry on! That makes more sense.
The hatch and cabin side windows should be plastic. Email GW customer service and they can tell you who made them. I think the hatch is still in production. You might be able to polish out the cabin windows. Cutting your own or having someone else do it is another option that will be way more cost effective.

 

[PointedRose]

Can I ask why a 50hp is needed for a kicker? (if you do go the single route)

I wouldn’t expect more than 20hp for a kicker

 

[Johnyrude200]

I use the boat both inland and coastal where there can be strong currents or tidal. Pushing a 25-ft boat that weighs 5,000lbs, a 25-60hp motor is the minimum to maintain control of the boat in these conditions and hold headway speed. I've been off shore in 20 foot sea swells, and as we all know the way you get in trouble is if you don't keep the bow pointed into the waves. At least with a kicker I have that safety backup in the unlikely situation the main motor quit.

I have 2 other Gradys I set up this way (22 seafarer, 22 tournament). It allows me flexibility in all boating applications while maximizing fuel economy and safety.

The issue you run into with twin motors (i.e. twin V6's), is even if you are running at idle that is a lot more fuel than a small kicker at the same relative speed. One main motor and a kicker also cuts weight on the boat significantly (generally 150lbs +). So you're winning both with burning less fuel with motor size, AND better fuel economy by reducing boat ballast. Doesn't seem like much, but it adds up on long trips (sometimes I go out for 4-6 days continuously).

I've gotten creative with the kicker motors. When you get into 25-50hp, these motors weren't made with 25" shafts. So I figured out how to extend them the extra 5" to make sure there is no ventilation. And they usually have integrated trim. Electro steer by panther for steering, or if feasible a tie bar between main motor and kicker.

 

[5-Salt]

After several months I just purchased a 1996 Voyager. The boat is in all original condition with usual wear and will be getting a full rehab and new lease on life.

2 Questions:

1. The cuddy skylight window is broken on this boat (smashed). Any recommendations for a replacement, or should I just bring it down to a local glass company and have them make me a new one? I need to replace all 4 cabin windows too they are showing the old gassing/spidering. Guessing a glass company is the best route to go for these since they are simpler.

2. Boat is currently powered with twin 150 ETECS low hours. Im not going off shore, so Im considering switching to a single 300 with 50hp kicker.
What speeds have folks had with twins vs a single 300?

My boat has a bimini no hardtop…..so less weight.

Thanks again

You can purchase plexiglass window replacement from OEM manufacturer. Find their company name on the aluminum frame and google their contact details.

 

[Johnyrude200]

Just a follow up on the windows. I was able to have a local glass company replace all the cuddy windows and skylight for a measly $300.00. I had to shop around a bit though - another company within eyeshot of the one I went with, they quoted me $1200.00 for the same job.

So goes to show there are screwballs out there trying to put us over the barrel if they can.........

Windows are all brand new now and boat looks much better. Thanks again for the help everyone.

 

[Fishtales]

After several months I just purchased a 1996 Voyager. The boat is in all original condition with usual wear and will be getting a full rehab and new lease on life.

2 Questions:

1. The cuddy skylight window is broken on this boat (smashed). Any recommendations for a replacement, or should I just bring it down to a local glass company and have them make me a new one? I'd suggest looking at a Bowmar hatch. It should be a standard size opening, so you should be able to find something. I need to replace all 4 cabin windows too they are showing the old gassing/spidering. Guessing a glass company is the best route to go for these since they are simpler. I'm guessing this is the best route too. You def want tempered glass for that application.

2. Boat is currently powered with twin 150 ETECS low hours. Im not going off shore, so Im considering switching to a single 300 with 50hp kicker.
What speeds have folks had with twins vs a single 300? You'll need to close the original mounting holes. Might be good to see if you can get a look at the transom core at this time.

My boat has a bimini no hardtop…..so less weight.

Thanks again

 

[family affair]

Just a follow up on the windows. I was able to have a local glass company replace all the cuddy windows and skylight for a measly $300.00. I had to shop around a bit though - another company within eyeshot of the one I went with, they quoted me $1200.00 for the same job.

So goes to show there are screwballs out there trying to put us over the barrel if they can.........

Windows are all brand new now and boat looks much better. Thanks again for the help everyone.

Don't keep all your secrets. Let us know who did the windows!

 

[Johnyrude200]

It was a company called Portland Glass, they are a franchise with several locations.

But I am in New Hampshire, so folks will probably need to find a similar company more local to them.