Hey guys, I'm looking at a 1985 24 cc with a single 225 just wondering does anyone have an opinion on this boat good or bad. Thanks, Tim 
249 grady cc
- Thread starter slow ride
- Start date
249 CC
Hi Tim
I have a 1988 249 CC w/twin 120s.
What I like: The size is managable but pretty roomy for a 24' boat, The ride is decent, The forward seatin g is great for family and friends, both bay fishing and just cruising around, The t top, The Teak trim makes it distictive, and it's a Grady with pretty decent quality.
What I don't like: The open transom and flimsy well panel, The console is designed for sit down operation..I modified mine and have a leaning post, Many costruction details like - it's pretty rough below decks, wiring is kind of sloppy, Live well(s) are not real convenient, but they work, and Batteries way in the back in hard to access compartments.
So, it sort of depends on your use for the boat, I use mine primarily in Barnegat Bay NJ, and near shore, though I have been 35 miles out for Tuna on good days. How old is the engine? Mine are 1988 Johnson VRO 120s. Rebuilt powerheads in 2001, now non-VRO, (I mix oil in my fuel)
I'd look closely in the bilges, at the tops of the fuel tank(s) - replaced my aux 50 gal in 2001 because the top was eaten through from corrosion.
Hope some of this helps. More questions????
Hi Tim
I have a 1988 249 CC w/twin 120s.
What I like: The size is managable but pretty roomy for a 24' boat, The ride is decent, The forward seatin g is great for family and friends, both bay fishing and just cruising around, The t top, The Teak trim makes it distictive, and it's a Grady with pretty decent quality.
What I don't like: The open transom and flimsy well panel, The console is designed for sit down operation..I modified mine and have a leaning post, Many costruction details like - it's pretty rough below decks, wiring is kind of sloppy, Live well(s) are not real convenient, but they work, and Batteries way in the back in hard to access compartments.
So, it sort of depends on your use for the boat, I use mine primarily in Barnegat Bay NJ, and near shore, though I have been 35 miles out for Tuna on good days. How old is the engine? Mine are 1988 Johnson VRO 120s. Rebuilt powerheads in 2001, now non-VRO, (I mix oil in my fuel)
I'd look closely in the bilges, at the tops of the fuel tank(s) - replaced my aux 50 gal in 2001 because the top was eaten through from corrosion.
Hope some of this helps. More questions????
Hey Bob, thanks for the reply. I just got back from looking at the boat nice layout but all deck hatches were soft along with a large spot just forward of the console. The hatches aren't a big deal to rework but the soft deck has me concerned. I pulled the inspection plates and the tops of the tanks looked pitted. I'm not looking for a project boat but for the right price I'd consider it. The motor is a 98 ocean runner with a powerhead that looked to clean to be a 98, the owner never mentioned a rebuild ???
249 CC
I agree, I'd be most concerned about the deck area. The hatches and even the removable deck panels are relatively easy to rework. I did one of the large forward compartment hatches - reused the outer skin with the non-skid, but rebuilt the core with new marine plywood and glass mat. I filled the hinge screw area with solid glass mat and resin. Grady wasn't too good at limiting or sealing wood in panels near areas that are cut out or that have screws penetrating the skin. The hinge screws are the culprits in the hatches and the screws securing the deck panels up the middle of the deck and the seat pedestals and the console are others. The water gets in and the rot starts, the hatch or panel swells and creates cracks that ooze ugly brown water and eventually the panel is a skin with a wet sponge inside. If the price is right and you pull up the floor, that's the time to do the tank(s).
BobS
I agree, I'd be most concerned about the deck area. The hatches and even the removable deck panels are relatively easy to rework. I did one of the large forward compartment hatches - reused the outer skin with the non-skid, but rebuilt the core with new marine plywood and glass mat. I filled the hinge screw area with solid glass mat and resin. Grady wasn't too good at limiting or sealing wood in panels near areas that are cut out or that have screws penetrating the skin. The hinge screws are the culprits in the hatches and the screws securing the deck panels up the middle of the deck and the seat pedestals and the console are others. The water gets in and the rot starts, the hatch or panel swells and creates cracks that ooze ugly brown water and eventually the panel is a skin with a wet sponge inside. If the price is right and you pull up the floor, that's the time to do the tank(s).
BobS