251 ce battery/electrical issue

[Htfrozen]

Hello guys, was recently out on the water in my family’s 2021 251 ce when it randomly stopped dead in the water. We were traveling at about 23 knots and the whole system turned off. The boat came halting to a stop with our Simrads turning off and engine turning off. The system came back up with low voltage alarm. We tried starting back up and the engine made clicking noises and didn’t start. I turned the power completely off and then sitting for a minute we cranked back up on battery 2 and the boat acted like nothing was wrong (we were running in dual battery mode previously). All systems worked seemingly fine after. My first instinct was to check the kill switch and it had not been pulled. It seemed a little loose but the switch had not been able to recess in. The next day battery one is on 9 volts and won’t crank. Battery 2 works fine again and we leave and cruise with no issues.
Background on why we were running in dual battery mode: From day one battery one has had issues, we took it into the dealer and they replaced the battery. Later we had the same issue again and they said that the radio was pulling down the battery overnight. At the same time we installed a battery charger for the house batteries to plug in at the dock. The mechanic recommended that we run the boat in dual battery mode to charge them both so we have. I am aware Grady doesn’t recommend this but hell the dealer said to. The boat has been in times for this same issue. Does anyone have any ideas on what could be going on?

 

[JJF]

Has anyone checked the connections on the battery switch?

 

[seasick]

If the 9 volts you measured was taken at the physical battery terminals, you have either of two things: The battery is shot, perhaps a bad cell or it isn't getting charged. If you have two batteries total, it is unlikely that one battery isn't getting charged..
Simplest thing to do is pull the questionable battery and have it load tested. The auto parts stores like Autozone will do that usually or free. Prior to the load test, the battery should be charged up.
If you measured the low voltage anywhere else other than at both terminals of the battery, you have to do more trouble shooting. A bad/loose connection could be the cause. 9 volts is deader than dead. Basically at 12 volts, a flooded cell battery is totally discharged

 

[DennisG01]

FYI, the kill switch being flaky wouldn't cause you to lose power to the dash electronics, so that isn't the issue.

From what you've written, it sounds like battery #1 isn't being charged while on engine power. Start the engine and check for charging voltage at Battery #1.

The second issue could be your radio. Is it still hooked up and drawing excessive power? Pull the fuse (possibly two) for the radio until you get it fixed.

 

[DennisG01]

HOWEVER... this is a 2021 boat and it is under warranty. Have your dealer fix it. Problem solved Running with the battery switch on "both" to fix an excessive draw is NOT a "fix"

 

[SkunkBoat]

What Seasick and Dennis said....

 

[Htfrozen]

If the 9 volts you measured was taken at the physical battery terminals, you have either of two things: The batter is shot, perhaps a bad cell or it isn't getting charged. If you have two batteries total, it is unlikely that one battery isn't getting charged..
Simplest thing to do is pull the questionable battery and have it load tested. The auto parts stores like Autozone will do that usually or free. Prior to the load test, the battery should be charged up.
If you measured the low voltage anywhere else other than at both terminals of the battery, you have to do more trouble shooting. A bad/loose connection could be the cause. 9 volts is deader than dead. Basically at 12 volts, a flooded cell battery is totally discharged

Rechecked the batteries with a volt meter at the terminal it showed 13.3 volt instead of 11.4 that the unit showed previously. You may be correct in that there is an issue in between the two.

 

[Htfrozen]

Hello guys, was recently out on the water in my family’s 2021 251 ce when it randomly stopped dead in the water. We were traveling at about 23 knots and the whole system turned off. The boat came halting to a stop with our Simrads turning off and engine turning off. The system came back up with low voltage alarm. We tried starting back up and the engine made clicking noises and didn’t start. I turned the power completely off and then sitting for a minute we cranked back up on battery 2 and the boat acted like nothing was wrong (we were running in dual battery mode previously). All systems worked seemingly fine after. My first instinct was to check the kill switch and it had not been pulled. It seemed a little loose but the switch had not been able to recess in. The next day battery one is on 9 volts and won’t crank. Battery 2 works fine again and we leave and cruise with no issues.
Background on why we were running in dual battery mode: From day one battery one has had issues, we took it into the dealer and they replaced the battery. Later we had the same issue again and they said that the radio was pulling down the battery overnight. At the same time we installed a battery charger for the house batteries to plug in at the dock. The mechanic recommended that we run the boat in dual battery mode to charge them both so we have. I am aware Grady doesn’t recommend this but hell the dealer said to. The boat has been in times for this same issue. Does anyone have any ideas on what could be going on?

Has anyone checked the connections on the battery switch?

I looked at it and didn’t see anything loose that I could tell.

 

[Htfrozen]

HOWEVER... this is a 2021 boat and it is under warranty. Have your dealer fix it. Problem solved Running with the battery switch on "both" to fix an excessive draw is NOT a "fix"

After checking the batteries again. The sea star steering is connected directly to battery one. Both positive and negative, is this normal?

 

[ttles714]

NEVER dismiss the possibility of a bad or lose ground!!!!

 

[Htfrozen]

NEVER dismiss the possibility of a bad or lose ground!!!!

Could you elaborate on how to go about finding the important ground wires? I see the fuel tank grounding wire because it’s green and labeled. Here’s a photo of the battery setup currently.

 

[DennisG01]

We're kind of flopping all over here. Let's start with some solid data.

With the engines off, put the battery switch on "both". Turn your stereo on for about 10 minutes. Then turn everything off, including the battery switch. Use your volt meter directly on each battery and report what voltage you get.

Next, start up the engine and have the battery switch on "both". Measure the voltage direct at each battery and report.

Flip the switch to "1" and measure both batteries and report.

Flip the switch to "2" and measure both batteries and report.

 

[ttles714]

Start at the batteries ....black wire is vessel / motor ground ... look in owners manual for the boat's wiring schematic and check all the ground points and connections .. especially the "heavier " black wires ... under and around the console and at ground lugs and fuse panels. If you do a simple voltage check at battery and find 12 to 12.6 VDC .... and are seing 9 to 11 VDC somewhere else, I would bet somewhere you have a lose or corroded ground somewhere

 

[SkunkBoat]

We're kind of flopping all over here. Let's start with some solid data.

With the engines off, put the battery switch on "both". Turn your stereo on for about 10 minutes. Then turn everything off, including the battery switch. Use your volt meter directly on each battery and report what voltage you get.

Next, start up the engine and have the battery switch on "both". Measure the voltage direct at each battery and report.

Flip the switch to "1" and measure both batteries and report.

Flip the switch to "2" and measure both batteries and report.

probably shouldn't switch batteries with motor running....

 

[DennisG01]

probably shouldn't switch batteries with motor running....

It will depend on the switch. Most switches are "make before break" and then it will be fine. I guess I'm "assuming" that GW would use the better style switch.... But yes, if unsure, don't do it

I "thought" that, unlike with an alternator on a sterndrive, that it was OK to do so with an outboard even without a make before break switch? I'm honestly not sure on that, though.

 

[seasick]

I would not expect a battery to read 13.3 volts unless it was being charged, So either there is charging ( shore powered maybe) or you have a goofy digital volt meter. Do not rely on any voltage readings displayed by a MFD , sounder etc.

Also tell me if you removed your batteries sometime recently, perhaps for storage or maintenance.
If so or do it anyway, look for a thick negative cable that bridges (connects) the two batteries together. ( confirm how many batteries you have please.

Regarding the direct connection to the batteries for steering. I assume you have electric steering, is that so or are you referring to power hydraulic steering?
A direct connection is not an issue but there should be some sort of overload protection and disconnect. Is the steering connected directly to the battery terminals or is it connected to the selector switch or a breaker.
Finally; If the steering is connected to a specific battery, is it the battery that is acting up?

 

[SkunkBoat]

It will depend on the switch. Most switches are "make before break" and then it will be fine. I guess I'm "assuming" that GW would use the better style switch.... But yes, if unsure, don't do it

I "thought" that, unlike with an alternator on a sterndrive, that it was OK to do so with an outboard even without a make before break switch? I'm honestly not sure on that, though.

hence the "probably"... Most are off/1/both/2 now. many years ago there were off/1/2/both or 1/off/2/both which are a problem. Never go to or thru OFF with a motor running.
Also, we don't know if his switch is broken...


I sounds, from the first post, that the 1 battery was 9 volts at some point. He was running on Both before that. I would suspect the Batt 1 is bad, not charging or holding a charge. This could be from constantly being draw down by the stereo or something else when they are not on the boat. Eventually, it won't charge back up. Sounds like they replaced a battery once. Is batt1 the new one? The dealer would have looked for bad connections and a bad switch but maybe they missed something

step 1a Pull the fuse to the stereo and listen to the water and the seagulls
Step1 b Always turn the switch to OFF before you leave the boat. that way anything you left on won't kill the battery.

Step 2 Pull Batt 1 out and have it tested.

Step 3 Run on batt2 and verify there is no problem

Step 4 put batt 2 in batt1 position, switch to 1 and see if there is a problem

 

[billbass]

After checking the batteries again. The sea star steering is connected directly to battery one. Both positive and negative, is this normal?

Except for your automatic bilge pump all 12 should go through your big battery switch first, not to any device.

 

[billbass]

THere are devices that can test a battery while connected. I do not mean just a volt meter. Its easier to do this than to remove the battery to determine if the battery is bad. Having just low voltage does not mean the battery is bad. If its not getting charge then this is a problem. Don't be too quick to replace one of those very expensive batteries.

I suggest ALL battery cables/connectors be removed. Clean ALL surfaces of all connectors that become current carrying surfaces. Clean all to-be-contacted battery surfaces (the posts). Coat ALL/EVERY metal to metal surface with a corrosion inhibitor or dielectric grease. Then reconnect everything. Coat everything with a corrosion inhibitor to minimize corrosion on any battery connections.

 

[Halfhitch]

Do not put dielectric grease on the battery posts or cable connections. Dielectric grease is an isolator, in that it does not conduct electrical current. After your connections are made with clean dry components, then coat them with a corrosion inhibitor.