265 Express Electronics Access?

[Uncle Binky]

So I'm at my wit's end trying to gain access to the space behind my panel on my 2005 265 . I've discussed this at length with factory support, my local GW dealer, and the dealer that originally sold the boat. The Garmin 5212 plotter is mounted with studs and nuts from behind the panel. The Icom 502 is mounted in a similar fashion. There is no possibility of removing these units from the fronts of them. The enclosure dome forward of the dash is screwed in place, but the mounting screws are darn near impossible to access due to the proximity to the windshield. I can't believe I'd have to remove the windshield to access the screws to remove this enclosure, but once removed and replaced, I'd never get my fingers between the dome and the windshield to install the screws or caulk the seam. There is a vinyl coated headliner panel it the cabin that, if removed, might provide access from below, but my local GW mechanic was adamant that I'd ruin it trying to remove it, so I'm reluctant to try. I'd love to hear from someone with this year and model, as they changed this panel in 2004 or 2005 and it is unlike the older box with door style enclosure of previous models. Any ideas?
Thanks

 

[seafarer94]

I have a 2005 265 express. I took my dome cover off to access the electronics box. I used a 1/4 inch drive ratchet with a 1/4 inch socket and I stuck a number 2 Philips head driver in the socket and took the three screws out in the front. Good luck with your project.

 

[Uncle Binky]

Thanks. unfortunately, the PO or other kind soul stripped the heads on two of the front screws, making it that much more fun. I'll wrestle with it a bit and see what comes of it.

 

[Halfhitch]

You mentioned that you spoke with the GW factory and your dealer about this but failed to say what their response was. I would be interested.

 

[Uncle Binky]

GW Factory Support said it had been too long since they'd seen one to have any idea. They suggested I contact the dealer that sold the boat 13 ears ago and pick their brains. My local dealer had no idea and suggested I bring the boat in. I'm as clever as the next guy, but I can't imagine how I'm going to do a nice job caulking the seam even if I can R&R the enclosure.

 

[max366]

If you're pondering about sealing the joint at the back of the housing (right next to the windshield) and the top of the console, how about using butyl tape at the bottom of the housing? Flexible, great sealing capabilities and will stick to the housing as you lower it onto the top of the console. Something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Colorimetrics-Wh ... B00JZ0RLNU

 

[Uncle Binky]

I've used butyl tape in the past, but as this is such an awkward drag, slide, shove, and twist, I was more comfortable with old fashioned caulk and a finger. I ended up popping out the front section of window which allowed me to remove the stripped screws without damaging the enclosure, and now I have all the room I need to work. Unfortunately, what I didn't know is that the shop that installed the plotter and radio didn't use fasteners to install the units. Instead, they glued them in with silicone caulk, which I had mistaken for mere sealant. Silly me. I can now replace the dome fasteners with a better type/ quality of fastener that will make future journeys into the dash a touch easier.

 

[SkunkBoat]

Thanks for the picture!
I have a 2000 with the plexiglass doors that access there.
I was contemplating converting it to a flush mount for a new Garmin echo 94 and an old 4208.
It would look nice but worry about access (the sonar module is in there) and it seems like a waste of space for cell phones, wallet and a bag of Doritos.
I think you convinced me not to do it.

Was that closed off by Grady or by the person mounting the electronics?

 

[Uncle Binky]

Skunk, it was built this way by Grady. Unfortunately, there isn't enough height behind the panel to install a plotter larger than the 5212 I have now - as I need to replace/ upgrade my transducer, I thought I'd go all out and replace my 5212 with the 7616, but there's little chance of that, as the 5212 is really more than can be mounted correctly. You could enlarge your existing opening, install a new plate to flush mount to, and add a door for tossing in shtuff if you'd like. Removing the windshield was much easier than expected, and provides the opportunity to reset and reseal the windshield frame mounting screws that have worked loose (mine had several).

 

[SkunkBoat]

Thanks Uncle Binky!
Now my dilemma is whether to put the new echo 94 up in the hard top or next to the 4208 in the dash.

You talked about a new transducer...where/what type is the sonar module?
You getting new sonar with sideVu /clearVu? or just a new transducer?

 

[Uncle Binky]

I don't really know which way I'm heading. I thought I was gonna leave it all alone until the kids were out of college, but the temp function is failing, and Garmin Tech told me it was almost certainly my transducer. If I'm going to replace my B60 ducer, I'll probably want to upgrade my sounder system to at least CHIRP, and as I understand it, if I upgrade my plotter to the 7600 series then I don't need to but a new sounder box. My GSD22 is mounted on the bulkhead in front of my (port) holding tank. I don't personally care for screens in my overhead, as I get a kink in my neck looking up all the time. That's why I have a Grady and not a Hans Christian. :wink:

 

[TUNAHUNTER197]

Now that looks like a real PIA to install new electronics. Would it be possible to use a jig saw and cut an access hole down and be able to access the electronics from the cabin (flip down cabinet to access your dash and gauges)? Taking out the windshield and that large dome to access the electronics seems like a pain. Any thoughts about cutting an access hole?

 

[Fowl Hooked]

Thanks for the pictures and this thread. On my 2005 the PO had flush mounted the electronics in a piece of starboard cut to fit in the opening once the doors were removed, screwed into the existing frame from the front (which does make it easy to remove) and lightly sealed for appearance sake. Doesn't look bad and it's functional though it does still limit the size of displays. I've been contemplating having the whole thing glassed in as it looks so much better and would allow me to move up to 12" displays but now I'm not so sure.

Uncle Binky, how hard was it to remove that center panel from the windshield? I've pulled the top bracket several times and have replaced the gasket material but it didn't seem like the glass wanted to move at all and I was beginning to think I'd have to take the whole thing apart which I really don't want to do. Thanks.

Brett

 

[Jeanette Elaine]

There is more room in there than you might think. I cut a 1/2" starboard and followed the outside edges to house 2 C120's !! Looks great, very solid and easy access by removing one unit or the entire starboard panel.
Anybody know how to rotate an uploaded file?

 

[max366]

Here's what I did on my 2004 265. The pair of 12" Axiom unit fit quite nicely. The screws on the starboard go into SS threaded inserts epoxied into the fiberglass housing. Worked out great.

 

[PrinceofThieves]

+1 for Axiom's on 265

 

[Jeanette Elaine]

Very nice max. I thought those pic looked familiar. Button up tonight looks like a big cold blow coming your way. !

 

[Uncle Binky]

The windshield frame is not difficult to remove - pull the foam out of the channel to reveal the screws, carefully remove all the screws, remove the braces at the tower frame, and gently work the frame loose from the deck. The foam tape may be stuck to the deck from time, but the adhesive bonds it to the frame. The windshield braces have upper brackets with mounting screws that must be removed from the frame to allow the center section to slide up and free of the corner sections. Have a buddy help with this. Having a removable panel fastened to the dash would have been a better method of providing access, but now I can compound the ledge that the windshield frame sits on, install new base foam tape, and reseat the mounting screws. I'll also install threaded inserts and nutserts for mounting the dome back in place, and with the windshield out of the way I can do a nice job caulking around the dome.
Rob, it wouldn't be that hard to remove the headliner panel and gain access from below, but then you open yourself up to the possibility of leaks if your caulking fails. There is no possibility of access from the door in the cabin. Really, now that I've done this, I'd suggest cutting the front out and adding a nice CF, Starboard, or anodized aluminum panel to mount to with quality machine screws and inserts.