265 express electronics installation

[PukeNreel]

Getting ready to install Furuno electronics package myself after getting an $8000 labor quote!
tzt3 12” mfd’s
Scx 20 satellite compass
711c auto pilot
24” dome radar
Satellite weather

I don’t even know what questions to ask because I’ve never done this. i’m gonna do some research, mock up my layout and go for it!

if anyone has any pointers or suggestions, specifically guys who have experience with the 265 express I would very much appreciate it.

 

[trapper]

I believe it is all doable yourself. Had not issues installing my Furuno autopilot and mfd's and helped a friend install the radar. Furuno has good install instructions with the Furuno Forum standing by to answer questions. $8000 labour quote? Yikes !!!

 

[SkunkBoat]

There are 265 Express threads tagged 265 Express. Do Search forums, Search Tags, 265 Express
You can also tag search Dash, Autopilot,....

https://www.greatgrady.com/threads/265-x-flat-panel-dash.31837/

 

[PukeNreel]

Thanks guys. I’ll do some more digging through the information that has already been posted! Depending on whether here in the Pacific Northwest I hope to get going on this soon. March is when fishing starts for me!

 

[SkunkBoat]

You are going to have a fuse panel under the dash and one in the hardtop. I suggest replacing them if they are original.

 

[PukeNreel]

That’s a great suggestion. I’ll look into both. The fuse panel under the dash is original and looked a little messy.

 

[Fowl Hooked]

I did a similar project a few years ago, there's nothing involved that you can't do yourself. Best advice I'd have at this point is to spend a lot of time thinking through the layout to include routing for both power and data. Are you replacing existing equipment or adding new? Mine was an upgrade so everything new went where the old was but if I was installing from scratch I would have maybe located things a little differently. Stuffing tubes can be a problem and the one going to the overhead from the dash has a tight turn and can fill up quick. I got great use from a flexible wire snake and a liberal application of blue painter's tape to cover and protect whatever cable I was pulling. I labeled everything, took pictures along the way, and wrote up notes on what I did so the next owner wouldn't have to try and figure it out. I used a lot of tie downs to route and control cables so I installed some scrap starboard to make bases for all of them to screw into vice putting a ton of holes in the dash base. As Skunk said, there's a number of threads and photos on this topic but let me know if you're wondering about anything in particular and I'll try to help out.

 

[Fishtales]

Agree with all said. Template is the best and even a moch up using a box is advised. Spend the time on the wiring. Use liquid tape in addition to tape especially if in a moist or wet environment.
You can run wire inside the hardtop supports. Have a good snake. Run all new wire and fuse appropriately. Stake all wiring to ensure no movement or chafing.

 

[PukeNreel]

I did a similar project a few years ago, there's nothing involved that you can't do yourself. Best advice I'd have at this point is to spend a lot of time thinking through the layout to include routing for both power and data. Are you replacing existing equipment or adding new? Mine was an upgrade so everything new went where the old was but if I was installing from scratch I would have maybe located things a little differently. Stuffing tubes can be a problem and the one going to the overhead from the dash has a tight turn and can fill up quick. I got great use from a flexible wire snake and a liberal application of blue painter's tape to cover and protect whatever cable I was pulling. I labeled everything, took pictures along the way, and wrote up notes on what I did so the next owner wouldn't have to try and figure it out. I used a lot of tie downs to route and control cables so I installed some scrap starboard to make bases for all of them to screw into vice putting a ton of holes in the dash base. As Skunk said, there's a number of threads and photos on this topic but let me know if you're wondering about anything in particular and I'll try to help out.

It’s a refit but, may as well be from scratch as the existing equipment is so old there is no nema 2000 backbone and wiring will need replacing. In some cases I have old stuff to pull new, which will be helpful I’m sure. On skunks suggestion i am replacing fuse panels and I have contacted New Wire Marine for a new rocker switch panel. Funny how projects like this continue to get bigger! I appreciate the advice! I’ve been reading through the threads for ideas and suggestions and I’ll definitely try my best to “ measure twice cut once”. Pictures are a good idea. I’m anxious to get going just waiting on an ap pump. Any advise on thru hull transducer placement?

 

[seasick]

You should think about whether your current wiring on the accessory side is sized adequately for the new loads. In addition, you should take a look at your house battery configuration to also make sure that it is up to snuff. Dont forget any new transducers as well as all the obvious components. I am sure you checked that your
You listed 'mfd's". Are you installing more than one?
Have you included what might be needed for auto pilot ( If already have auto pilot, will that equipment be included in your plan or will the parts all be new?

I was reading about a similar install using Garmin equipment and there was a section that mentioned that certain operating setup parameters were not general user accessible but rather needed special authorized dealer software . That may have been related to electric steering but I am not sure.

 

[SkunkBoat]

I had a thread on AP and one on Hose fittings. Using Parker field replaceable fittings can save you $$ on hoses. Not all hose is the same. read up on that in those posts.
You should power your AP direct back to battery switch (fused). You want it using its own wire so it doesn't drop the voltage on the rest of your panel.
Radar power I ran down to the terminal block under dash with its own fuse. Same reasoning. There is only a 10awg feed to the hardtop fuse panel.

replace your halogen spreaders with LED.

Look at the "New 265 battery config" thread. best thing I've done to the boat...well, AP is pretty awesome too...

What transducer do you have now?. Replacing old thruhull may involve filling space. Look at the diameter of the threads in specs of transducers
I have a thread with pix replacing a B744 with a GT51. on centerline between water pickups.

If you are looking at a b175 you need a lot of room. If you don't have oil tanks anymore, you can remove an oil tank shelf...perfect spot for a B175 or a shootthruhull tub.

 

[PukeNreel]

You should think about whether your current wiring on the accessory side is sized adequately for the new loads. In addition, you should take a look at your house battery configuration to also make sure that it is up to snuff. Dont forget any new transducers as well as all the obvious components. I am sure you checked that your
You listed 'mfd's". Are you installing more than one?
Have you included what might be needed for auto pilot ( If already have auto pilot, will that equipment be included in your plan or will the parts all be new?

I was reading about a similar install using Garmin equipment and there was a section that mentioned that certain operating setup parameters were not general user accessible but rather needed special authorized dealer software . That may have been related to electric steering but I am not sure.

Good call on the battery configuration, I’ll look into that in a couple days be for i get started.. I put in new Northstar AGM batteries about 18 months ago 2x group 24 dual purpose 1 for each side and 1x group 27 for the house.. this makes me wonder if I’ll need 2 house batteries, I wanted to try to avoid the extra weight back there.

I have 2 12 mfds. The boat has an old Simard ap11.. it is not in working condition so all of that stuff is going away. I’m assuming the pump does not come with the plumbing so assuming location I’ll have to pencil that out also.

I’ll make sure to give Furuno a call about set up before diving in but, it’s my understanding all the stuff can be done at home. I think this SCX 20 satellite compass makes set up a lot easier without having to deal with a finicky heading sensor.. i’m not 100% sure but i hope to be soon.. All good stuff thanks again..

 

[PukeNreel]

I had a thread on AP and one on Hose fittings. Using Parker field replaceable fittings can save you $$ on hoses. Not all hose is the same. read up on that in those posts.
You should power your AP direct back to battery switch (fused). You want it using its own wire so it doesn't drop the voltage on the rest of your panel.
Radar power I ran down to the terminal block under dash with its own fuse. Same reasoning. There is only a 10awg feed to the hardtop fuse panel.

replace your halogen spreaders with LED.

Look at the "New 265 battery config" thread. best thing I've done to the boat...well, AP is pretty awesome too...

What transducer do you have now?. Replacing old thruhull may involve filling space. Look at the diameter of the threads in specs of transducers
I have a thread with pix replacing a B744 with a GT51. on centerline between water pickups.

If you are looking at a b175 you need a lot of room. If you don't have oil tanks anymore, you can remove an oil tank shelf...perfect spot for a B175 or a shootthruhull tub.

This is great stuff, thank you!
i’ve already switched over to LED spreaders.

I will do a little more digging but, are guys putting 4 batteries in the back?

My boat has four strokes (06 f225s) pretty heavy back there already!

I currently have a GT 51 transom mount, I’ll check out your replacement thread for location.

 

[max366]

I have an '04 with F225s and the starting battery and house battery on the starboard side, just the starting battery on the port. The starboard side has a slight list from the extra battery. One house battery has been sufficient for my needs.
WRT the transducer, I installed an Airmar B20 about 8" from the stern, just above the centerline where the hull was flat. I pick up the bottom at 35+ mph.
I installed twin 12" Raymarine Axioms on the front of the electronics box at the helm. As Skunk mentioned, my post on this should pop up when you search for 265.
I think you'll find it's worth doing the installation yourself and I found it like a puzzle!

 

[drbatts]

The good thing about the 265 is you have good access to all the pathways to run wires. You just need to unscrew and remove a few panels. You have plenty of room to mount stuff in the helm electronic pod. I had a simrad AP with the pump mounted behind the drawers in the cabin under the helm. you will probably want to replace the fuse panel in the upper electronics box as the original one in my boat was inadequate. There are lots of posts on here about modifications on these boats. Mockup and layout everything out before hand then have fun.

 

[PukeNreel]

I have an '04 with F225s and the starting battery and house battery on the starboard side, just the starting battery on the port. The starboard side has a slight list from the extra battery. One house battery has been sufficient for my needs.
WRT the transducer, I installed an Airmar B20 about 8" from the stern, just above the centerline where the hull was flat. I pick up the bottom at 35+ mph.
I installed twin 12" Raymarine Axioms on the front of the electronics box at the helm. As Skunk mentioned, my post on this should pop up when you search for 265.
I think you'll find it's worth doing the installation yourself and I found it like a puzzle!

Thanks.. your install looks great! I appreciate you and everyone taking the time to share. I’ll do what I can to give back ! My battery placement is the same, I’m in the Seattle area and fish salmon often. I run 3 high speed downriggers in addition to everything else. I’ve never had a battery problem with my current set up but it’s always been in the back of my mind. I’m wondering if the new bigger demands will push me over the edge! Some days on a big tide exchange. You’re pulling up 15/20 pounds of lead from 80’ every couple of minutes to clear weeds! Any downrigger guys on here?

 

[vocz]

Thanks.. your install looks great! I appreciate you everyone taking the time to share. I’ll do what I can to give back ! My battery placement is the same, I’m in the Seattle area and fish salmon often. I run 3 high speed downriggers in addition to everything else. I’ve never had a battery problem with my current set up but it’s always been in the back of my mind. I’m wondering if the new bigger demands will push me over the edge! Some days on a big tide exchange. You’re pulling up 15/20 pounds of lead from 80’ every couple of minutes to clear weeds! Any downrigger guys on here?

I do have a 2003 265 and moorage in Everett 5 to 6 months each summer. Use autopilot & downrigger year around with 3 batteries. I add a battery voltage meter to tell me when I should cranking the main to recharge. Also, bring a portable lithium battery charger just in case.

 

[PukeNreel]

Can’t argue with results! I spend most of my time fishing out of Everett also. Hope to see you out there. My boat is painted dark gray, for better or worse pretty hard to miss.. thank you

 

[Fowl Hooked]

No advice on thru-hulls, both of my transducers are transom mounts. I looked into upgrading to a 4-battery arrangement, I've seen it done on 265s so they will fit (not sure about the 2-stroke arrangement and what you lose to oil tanks) but ultimately decided against the extra cost, weight, and complexity. I did upgrade to group 31s AGMs, and I just carry a lithium ion booster pack (NOCO or similar) in my boat bag so I can jump an engine if I somehow run everything down.

 

[SkunkBoat]

Don't want to rehash everything in the battery thread but here are the benefits
On/OFF switches under gunnels- never have to remove tubs to switch on/off
House+12V- separated from starting batteries, parallel pair of Deep Cycle 24DC charge from aux cables from both motors, Marine resettable breaker instead of stupid red button
Starting Batteries- each motor has its own starting battery that doesn't also run the House+12V

Can run lights & electronics all night drifting offshore canyon with motors off.

The original configuration the starboard pair is the starboard starting battery AND House +12V. It is a starting battery running House.