265 express electronics installation

much appreciated, as advised I’m working on a solid plan before diving in. getting close thanks to everyone here, I’m definitely looking at the “new battery configuration”.

I am my own worst enemy, configuration aside, I can’t make a damn decision on whether or not to get a 4th battery.
not that it’s the end of the world but, sure would be easier to do it now with everything else.. It’s working for vocz with 3, I should probably forget about it. Our situations are very similar. In any case no need to go down that rabbit hole any further.
 
OK, my auto pilot pump arrived i’m getting ready for the “soft” start of my installation.

After reading comments and suggestions here I’m starting with replacing fuse panels and maybe even some of the relevant wiring.

Unfortunately I currently have no power to my rocker panel? This is not been a problem until right now ! Of course right before I start a project.. i’ve made sure all the battery connections are solid and cleaned.

My question is I cannot find the 40 amp push button breaker everyone talks about having. I’ve looked in the bilge, i’ve looked around the batteries, I just don’t see it? Has anyone experienced this?

i’m wondering if the previous owner decided to do away with it and replace it with nothing! Ultimately I can run a new wire and probably will but it would be nice to know what I’m dealing with before getting started!

The bilge pumps have power, as I understand it those get power directly from the battery, everything else on the rocker panel is cold.. any ideas or suggestions?
 
it would be stdb side near the battery switch. A white plastic cover with red button. It would be fed from the stbd switch with 6 gauge red wire.
It may have already been replaced with a black switchable breaker.
 
SkunkBoat said:
it would be stdb side near the battery switch. A white plastic cover with red button. It would be fed from the stbd switch with 6 gauge red wire.
It may have already been replaced with a black switchable breaker.
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That’s what I thought. I even removed a battery to dig a little deeper. There is nothing there. Thanks
 
Follow the 6 gauge red wire. Its either on the "FEED or sometimes labeled "COM" of the stbd switch or its been moved by the PO. In that case it has to be on one of the stbd battery + posts.

From one of those two places it goes to a breaker and then forward to the + terminal block under the dash.
 
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my 2003 265 has 4 batteries. Not sure why but this is how I purchased it in 2022. I redid all of the electronics ( fuel tanks, and repower too). You have th right guys helping you on this thread because they helped me through it all too. If I can help or take pictures for you, please reach out.
 
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PukeNreel said:
much appreciated, as advised I’m working on a solid plan before diving in. getting close thanks to everyone here, I’m definitely looking at the “new battery configuration”.

I am my own worst enemy, configuration aside, I can’t make a damn decision on whether or not to get a 4th battery.
not that it’s the end of the world but, sure would be easier to do it now with everything else.. It’s working for vocz with 3, I should probably forget about it. Our situations are very similar. In any case no need to go down that rabbit hole any further.
Click to expand...
Mine was located where SKunk said. It looks like this.....
 

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Thanks guys! I’ve removed both starboard batteries and the port battery.. looks like the previous owner must’ve removed it on my boat! Looks like the 6 ga wire running form the battery switch to the helm is without a breaker or fuse of any kind! I removed cleaned and reinstalled all of the connections on the battery side, still no power to the rocker panel.

Next I’ll spend some time seeing if I’m getting power down that wire. Weather has been poor and my boat is sitting outside right now, makes it a little tough to open too much up at once..
 
Do you have power at the fuse panel under the dash?
 
Remember that the grounds are as important as the positive feeds. Bad connections at ground bus bars are common.
The breaker or fuse near the battery for the accessory feed is very important and is a ABYC requirement. The reason for such a breaker is that in the event of a short circuit somewhere down the line, the breaker will trip. If no breaker, it is likely that the current drawn will be way more than the wire is sized for. The wire will get hot, really hot and the insulation will melt and then burn. So will your boat.
Plan on adding a breaker and don't go bigger that the original. Like I said, the grounds are as important as the feeds and if you increase the gauge of the feed wires but not the grounds, the ground circuit can overheat and you know what can happen.
 
I forgot to mention that there may be other feeds that directly connecting to the battery feed. Automatic bilge pumps are the more common. Battery charger feeds are also common as may be stereo memory feeds. Those types of loads, always powered up regardless of the battery switch position , also need over current protection and often will be a inline fuse holder and fuse close to the battery.
 
Seasick, you mention something that peaks my interest. "Stereo memory feed" I have noticed that my stereo does stay hot when all perkos are off. Do you know where that ties in to the batteries? I want to run that to the main Acc feed to eliminate one additional draw. Thanks.
 
Sea Shift said:
Seasick, you mention something that peaks my interest. "Stereo memory feed" I have noticed that my stereo does stay hot when all perkos are off. Do you know where that ties in to the batteries? I want to run that to the main Acc feed to eliminate one additional draw. Thanks.
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The stereo memory feed is a constant 12 volts that is used to remember your preprogrammed stations. If you have one and then disconnect it or connect it to a switched source, you will loose your programmed stations.
Normally I would not expect the unit to be warm when not used. The memory draw is pretty small.There are a limited number of ways to wire the memory wire; It might be wired directly to a battery positive terminal or it might be wired to the back of a battery switch on the source side, not the switched output. In addition, it should have a small in-line fuse for protection.
Some stereos I have run into require weird wiring for the memory function. Newer stereos may not require a memory feed at all.
I do have a question: When you battery switch or switches are in the OFF position, does the stereo still work?
 
seasick said:
The stereo memory feed is a constant 12 volts that is used to remember your preprogrammed stations. If you have one and then disconnect it or connect it to a switched source, you will loose your programmed stations.
Normally I would not expect the unit to be warm when not used. The memory draw is pretty small.There are a limited number of ways to wire the memory wire; It might be wired directly to a battery positive terminal or it might be wired to the back of a battery switch on the source side, not the switched output. In addition, it should have a small in-line fuse for protection.
Some stereos I have run into require weird wiring for the memory function. Newer stereos may not require a memory feed at all.
I do have a question: When you battery switch or switches are in the OFF position, does the stereo still work?
Click to expand...
Yes my "Stereo" has power when the PERKO switch is off. I quoted stereo because a long time ago I swapped my typical stereo for a bluetooth reciever that powers my speakers. I didnt think about it at the time but when I get on the boat i hear an audible BLOOP-Beep which is my phone connecting to the system, and I can play music. I'm thinking I should track that wire down and re-route it to the switch. I'm sure it is placeing some sort of draw even when not playing music. No need for a "station memory" wire when its bluetooth.
 
Port side switch had memory (red/pink) on 1 and Fwd Float (brown/red) swicth on 2. Both had blade fuseholders.

Disconnect the memory power. You don't need a stereo running down your battery when you forget to turn it off. I don't "think" stereos need memory pwr anymore anyways.

Just power your bluetooth from the switched 12V fusepanel under the dash.
 
1) that install won’t be fun. You will be sore. Practice your yoga, you will need it.

2) IMHO, I would pay the $8k. Money well spent. Labor isn’t cheap for a reason. I would rather have the “pro’s” do a Pro Job.

3) I installed dual 12” Raymarines, with Chirp radar, three independent sounders, side vision, down vision, a fail-save stand-alone 4” Raymarine console monitor, plus a 7” second station monitor… $20,000 total (Tampa FL). It took the pro’s 4 full days, plus sea trial, plus trouble shooting / custom config of monitors.

Idk… to me, it’s money well spent for the guys who do it all day long to do this kind of job.
 
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