265 Express shower sump, rebedding and swim ladder

[Sketchywind]

Super stoked!

Just purchased a used 2001 265 Express. Very excited getting her ready for NorCal salmon season. There are a few issues that need to be addressed before putting her in service.

1. Removing headliner panels to get to hardtop stanchions located on foredeck? Water leaks into cabin.

2. Removing bow hatch to inspect Delam around hatch?

3. Shower sump not operating while lifting float. Is there a manual switch similar to forward and aft bilge switches? Or does shower sump activate manually off forward bilge switch? I read there is a fuse or breaker that may be suspect? Is there a diagnostic step to troubleshoot this sump? I'm planning to remove hatch to inspect and clean forward bilge.

4. How to rebed bow stanchions. Use poly sulfite caulk? And denatured alcohol or acetone to dry core?

5. Steering wheel shaft loose and slipping on starboard turns. Any suggestions?

6. No swim platform on boat. Did some 265 opt out on it? What's a good alternative to bolting one to the transom?

Thank you in advance for your ideas!

 

[eppem]

Re: 265 Express shower sump and hardware rebedding

Welcome to the site and congrats on the new 265! I have an 03 and there are several other owners on the site that I imagine will be chiming in soon.

I can only comment on the shower sump. Check to see if the arm for the float is stuck too? I had to swap mine out because the nipple that the drain snugged onto broke - of course you need to replace the whole item, sump and all! Needless to say, I never rechaulked the access hatch. It allows for easier access to the mid bilge, (for cleaning) and access to the head seacocks.

Good luck and enjoy!

EPPE 03 265 Express

 

[eppem]

Re: 265 Express shower sump and hardware rebedding

Me again, yes, I believe the platform was an option. I can send you photos of how our was installed by the factory and how we added to it. I just replaced the platform this spring but reused all the hardware. You can buy from your dealer the factory spec or I am sure any marine supply store of you choice would have an aftermarket option.

EPPE

 

[Sketchywind]

Re: 265 Express shower sump and hardware rebedding

Thanks Eppem!

 

[Sketchywind]

Re: 265 Express shower sump and hardware rebedding

Thanks Eppem!
I'm going to remove the cabin hatch and check the connections. Is it wired directly to the batteries? Or is there a manual switch? It seems like it should be powered whenever the water pump is turned on.
Good info on swim platform. I'm looking at a portable ladder from west marine that hangs over the railing.

 

[eppem]

Re: 265 Express shower sump and hardware rebedding

Glad to help! No switch for the sump, its an auto float. It will only activate when the sump is full of water from a shower or cleaning the head and having water drain into it. There is also a plastic filter in the sump for catching "nasties", mostly hair and stuff, make sure you clean that once or twice a year.

I know its not cheap but a small platform with a ladder makes it a lot easier to reboard in an emergency if someone goes over.

 

[Sketchywind]

Re: 265 Express shower sump and rebedding and swim ladder

I may have to buck up and get the original swim step and ladder in case of a MOB event. Climbing back in would be very difficult with out some sort of ladder. Especially if going out solo.

 

[onoahimahi]

5. Steering wheel shaft loose and slipping on starboard turns. Any suggestions?

Could it just be low on steering fluid? That can feel like a slip sometimes.

 

[Sea Shift]

Frank,
Looks like everyone else has it covered. Keep the questions comming and we will see you on the water soon!

 

[Enough Already]

1. No need to remove headliner panels. Loosen bolts, caulk from top. Tighten 80% until dry and then crank them down. Be careful completely removing bolts because the hardtop frame may be "sprung" and very difficult to realign to the holes. If you must remove the panels, they are a thin compressed composite with the vinyl glued and wrapped around them. The panels are then just glued or high-strength taped to the fiberglass ceiling.

2. Never done that but I think I might need to in order to stop a mysterious leak.

3. I have replaced mine 3 times in 10 years. Before debugging, just replace the pump and float and re-end all of the wires.

4. I have used clear marine-grade silicone caulk.

5. If you have bled the system and still getting slippage or choppy feedback at the hard-overs, you may be due for a helm unit re-build. Took mine out and spent $123 to get it re-built. Works perfect now. Call Fluid Technologies at 904-384-9659. They are in Jacksonville, FL. Hardest part was getting the darned steering wheel off. While doing that, you should also consider rebuilding the hydraulic cylinders in the back (new seal glands). Not that difficult of a job "if" you can get the tilt tube support bracket off. This is an annual maintenance item that had not been done on my boat for over 10 years. Flush and bleed the hydraulics and you will be amazed at how smooth it works.

6. Although the factory platform is really a pain and difficult boarding around the engines, you really need a way to get into the boat. One alternate option would be a hook ladder to hang on the side but then you need to carry the thing around.

7??. I'm surprised you have not mentioned the cruddy macerator pump? They fail almost yearly and are the bane of my boating existence.

 

[Sketchywind]

enough Already,
Thanks for the great info. I finally took the bow hatch off and the Delam was about a square foot around the hatch. I drilled about 30 holes and let it dry out for a week. I pumped epoxy into the holes and weighed it down. It worked for the most part, with a few spots still delamed but probably ok since I'm sealing the hatch opening and rebedding the hardtop stantions. I mixed some marine tex with some ivory pigment and filled the holes. The holes don't look bad , so I'm not going to recoat the gel coat. I used the West system GFlex, but would not use that again. It is too thick and not viscose enough to spread under the Delam. Regular marine epoxy next time.

The cabin hatch is a pain to remove. It still is caulked shut after cutting the whole edge. I'm going to try heating it to soften the caulking. The shower sump is tough to remove without the hatch off.

I'm going to bleed the steering to see if that helps the funky steerage.

Yes, the head macerator is 5/5. The previous owner said it freezes up every year, so don't bother replacing. We have a pump station in our marina, so no need. It would be nice to dump it off shore though.

This DIY project has been a good intro to the boating experience. I learned all about my new boat. Once I figure out how to post pics I'll show off the Delam project.