265 first ocean run
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Ekea
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so you went from 1" in to 1" out? thats a big adjustment. id love to see before and after wake pics (prob dont have before) and any performance changes
Was a pretty flat ocean yesterday, so hard to give 100% feedback on the change. But it seems to be quite a bit better, only noticed a slight slip when coming in a couple of times, where before it was almost a constant.
Here is the after pic, this was heading out, doing approx 34mph.
Here is the after pic, this was heading out, doing approx 34mph.
SkunkBoat
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Curious to know if you guys are able to get the freakish performance out of your df200's with 4 blades as I am with eco enertia's. The outter harbor has a 10 mph speed limit wake or no wake. With a light load I was planing at 9 mph, 2.8 mpg.
My fuel economy is so good across the board that it is taking me forever to burn off fuel from last fall!
My fuel economy is so good across the board that it is taking me forever to burn off fuel from last fall!
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SkunkBoat
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No. 265 will never plane at 9mph.
265s have twin DF200s getting 1.6 average at speeds between 26mph and 36 mph.
Do get 2.8 at 9 mph though
Ekea
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Ekea
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Yes, it is a 270. Zero tabs.
I'm beyond pleased with my set up. It far outperforms the factory Yamaha set up from 2005 and also current Yamaha performance bulletins on the 275 Freedom.
Yamaha needs to make better props, or Grady should at least consider using Merc props on the Yamahas. My only minor complaint is a following sea. The prop loses bite under some circumstances, but no worse than the Yamaha props under the same conditions. Keeping the engines closer to the bottom of the trim range helps.
Ekea
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SkunkBoat
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no, the tie bar is 28.5". The motors are 28" on center. thats .25" offset for each motor.
I think he was referring to my total adjustment, since the motors were set up at 27.5 on the tie bar.
Setting the toe is often a trial and error case. Measuring the tie bar and prop to prop distance is only accurate to set 0 toe. The geometry of the adjustment is that the angle of the motor is important and it is somewhat easy to determine the required angle if you know the motor spacing and how far back you want the wakes to merge. The distance from the tie bar pivot to the prop center differs by engine, and lower unit. So setting a specific toe by adjusting the difference between tie bar pivot distance and prop shaft distance will differ by engine in many cases. Some manufacturers spec a zero toe and some racing model motors will use a toe in setting. The merging of the wakes in this case adds to stability but does sacrifice performance somewhat since when there is toe out, the thrust is directed at an angle and that causes the hull to turn.
One other thing to keep in mind when adjusting the tie bar. On some tie bar ends where the adjustment is made by screwing the tie rod ball fitting in or out, there is a small hole in the fitting that you need to look at. You should see threads. If not the tie bar end is adjusted too far out nad could break loose under stress. If you can not see threads when you have adjusted your toe out, you need a new longer tie bar or less toe.
One other thing to keep in mind when adjusting the tie bar. On some tie bar ends where the adjustment is made by screwing the tie rod ball fitting in or out, there is a small hole in the fitting that you need to look at. You should see threads. If not the tie bar end is adjusted too far out nad could break loose under stress. If you can not see threads when you have adjusted your toe out, you need a new longer tie bar or less toe.