265 Fuel sender

[Diad]

Hi,
Does it matter what fuel sender that i buy to replace what i have in a 2003 265 X? I just filled up the main tank until it almost overflowed and the gauge is blinking one bar. The aux tank is showing 4 bars but i have no way to confirm that this is accurate. When i tap on the main tank with a screw driver i can hear that it is full. The aux tank sounds empty. I will add that when i was adding fuel to the aux tank a tremendous amount of air was coming out. I could hear it, quite loud. I suppose that the wires could be crossed on the fuel switch but i should still be reading full on one of them. I'm thinking that the sender is bad and i'm wondering are the mounting holes universal?
thanks!

 

[seasick]

In the US, the fuel senders for boats are somewhat standard at least as far as mounting hole pattern and resistance range from full to empty. There are for the most part two types of senders; swing arms which have an arm with a float on the end that rotates a potentiometer as fuel level changes. The second type is a linear type that has pipe that runs from the sender to about a half to and inch above the tank floor. In that tube are magnetic switches and are activated by a magnetic ring that slides up and down the tube as the fuel level changes. The linear types made by KUS ( formerly WEMA) are more reliable than the swing arm types.

All that aside, your first test to gain access to the tank where the sender is located. There should be an access plats over that area. The sender should be visible. Connected to the sender is a pink wire. Unplug or unbolt from the sender and keep it away from anything conductive. Turn on the ignition and the gauge should read empty( it make take a few seconds for the display to update.). If that works, now connect the pink wire to a good ground. The gauge should read full. If it does the the gauge as well as the wiring is good and of course the tank selector is on that tank. If nothing changes, flip the tank gauge switch and see if the tests change.

Be careful if you decide to remove the sender. If you unscrew it and the tank is full or mostly full, gas will pour out into the bilge.

 

[SeaVee]

Based on my experience, make sure you take your time removing the sender and be extra careful with the RivNuts . I put too much torque and damaged them, causing a leak. I’d also run some of the fuel out of the tank before you start the process

 

[SkunkBoat]

You have to look at the top of it. If you have original tanks it is probably the standard 5 screw pattern. My replaced tanks are threaded and screw in. There are no screws.


Most likely you have a broken wire or corroded connection. check them at the tanks and at the switch. Check the grounding wires on the tanks. Check the grounding wire connection to the battery.
Do seasicks procedure for testing.

The very last thing you should do is remove the sender.....

Remember, after switching the tank readout switch, you have to WAIT 20 or so seconds for the digital gauge to display the tank.

 

[Diad]

Okay so the tank reads full by putting the pink wire to the ground. Does that mean the sender is bad?

 

[mjm1957]

Yes

 

[SkunkBoat]

unless by "pink to ground" you mean touch the tank.....It could still be the ground of the tank is bad

add where do you mean pink wire...at tank or from switch or from gauge?

 

[Diad]

unless by "pink to ground" you mean touch the tank.....It could still be the ground of the tank is bad

add where do you mean pink wire...at tank or from switch or from gauge?

I took the pink wire to the sender, had to cut it, and put it to the ground on the tank with the green wire. That was the closest ground. I did not do anything at the switch panel.

 

[SkunkBoat]

I took the pink wire to the sender, had to cut it, and put it to the ground on the tank with the green wire. That was the closest ground. I did not do anything at the switch panel.

OK. You cut the pink wire at the tank and touched to tank. Unless there was a bad connection to the sender at the tank, its the sender.

 

[Diad]

It’s pretty dirty on top of the tank. That’s another project. I see wema on the sender. Is there a way to determine the length without removing? I’d like to remove only once if possible. Tries to upload a picture buts too large.

 

[SkunkBoat]

if you use your phone on this site you have a choice to change the size of the image from "Actual" to Large or medium

if there is a number on the sender it might indicate the length. WEMA is now called KUS.They have a website. They also sell on Amazon. They make the "magnetic" type vs the float arm type.
I am 95% sure the one I replaced on the main tank was 11"....hehehe...so measure it if the part number doesn't get you there

 

[Diad]

I’ll go out there tomorrow and clean it off. Thanks so much everyone

 

[Diad]

Looks like it’s 10”. SSS 10 is stamped on it. Gonna order it so it gets here by the weekend

 

[seasick]

Okay so the tank reads full by putting the pink wire to the ground. Does that mean the sender is bad?

Yes but only if the tank is not empty

 

[Diad]

Yes but only if the tank is not empty

The tank is completely full. Spilled over when filling.

 

[seasick]

Remember that if the tank is mostly full or full and you unscrew the sender, gas will pour out in gallons into the bilge

 

[Diad]

Remember that if the tank is mostly full or full and you unscrew the sender, gas will pour out in gallons into the bilge

Yes, I understand. I’m going to go run it at “high” speed for a while to burn fuel OR empty into the aux tank. How much fuel can be in there to replace the sender? The part will be here Thursday but Im in no hurry.

 

[SkunkBoat]

I wouldn't try it until 3/4 tank at least.. Depending on how the boat sits the fuel surface may rest at an angle to the top of the tank.
so you need to burn 35 gallons...

 

[Diad]

I’ve got big problem. Out running the boat today to burn off fuel and heavy gas odor coming from every where. I have fuel in the bilge. It was not in there prior to me putting 50 gallons in (30 in main and 20 in aux)earlier this week. I removed the rear drawers in the cockpit and no fuel from the fill hoses. bone dry. I removed all of the access hatches and also bone dry. I removed the drawers from inside the cabin and the access plated under there for the main tank was bone dry as well. It must be coming from the bottom/sidesof one of the tanks. Ugh! 2003 265 so 20 years old. I was hoping to run the boat this summer and do the fuel stuff after the season. I guess I need to have the tanks pumped out ASAP. The main was completely full and the aux is registering about 50/60 gallons.

1) any idea of cost to remove fuel and get it out of here?
2) suggestions on what to do next?
3) where to buy new tanks in the Maryland area? Any welders on the forum?
4) is this a DIY job or suggestions on companies to replace the tanks?
this really blows! I have a ton of time invested in this boat and really wanted to use it this summer.

thanks, as always, for the support! Happy Fathers Day

 

[SkunkBoat]

well, make sure its not from hoses to /from fuel valves & filters. check the bulbs

do you have a puddle of gas in the bilge? or a trace and heavy smell?

Its going to flow forward at rest . Check forward bilge.

Get both bilge areas dry.

In theory, you can connect the outlet of the fuel filter/water separator to a fuel pump and fill up your dock neighbor's boat.
Most marinas don't like that but they don't like gas pumping out of the bilge either.

They are large tanks and the boat is tall out of water. It will require a forklift and or some crazy improvised pulley system
Mine were done by the PO so I have no insite for you.

https://speedytanks.com/
Atlantic Coastal Welding is in Bayville,NJ.