265 mods

Thanks for info. I’m ready to upgrade that little inspection cover.
 
here is new hatch in position....not sealed & screwed yet... need to add a few inches to the bilge pump hose before buttoning up.

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Just an update. We are able to get both yamaha oil tanks out thru this hatch!
 
I did the same thing with the refrigerator space. Wanted to take the Microwave out also but was overruled by the wife. Thinking about purchasing an inverter and maybe put a new refrigerator back in.
 

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I've got some work to do in the next two weeks. replace the cracked cup holders, bottom paint, general maintenance. I also plan on flush mounting 2 VHF's and my lowrance gen 2 7'' up above the port side overhead compartment. I will then have two 9'' and then the 7'' up top (if i can fit it all there). Starboard came in the mail a few days ago. I really wanted to pull my motors and take care of the transom cap before i splashed this season. Will see if i have the time. Ive been gathering the materials for it bought 10yrds of 1708 glass and epoxy resin.
 
Urban Flush Mount Security cover update.
I’m finishing up my Simrad flush mount install on the 265. I fabricated a 1” starboard cover to secure the electronics. There’s been dirt heads trolling the docks lately. Hope this deterrent works.
 

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Finished flush mount install with starboard cover.
 

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I get water in battery compartments when washing down with a hard spray. The plastic trays are cracked and missing some of the edge.(aren't they all?)
Needed a simple, fast solution to prevent water on top of batteries. Battery Box covers are not an option because of all the wires for parallel batteries.
Got a rubber floor runner at Home Depot and cut pieces to fit both sides. This runner has ridges. Placed properly they will channel the water to the sides and not backward onto the battery switch.

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Nice mods, agreed, Skunk. Looking at doing a few things to my 270... lol.. but first.. most important mod is to get her WET.. lol

:P

R
 
Some things I've been doing...

Removed rusty fridge that I was never going to use. My brother had some left over mahogany. Made a door frame and added a plexiglass door.
There is a floor in there made of pvc board.
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Very disappointed with the OE rod storage in the cabin.

Put some rod grommets in the fwd bulkhead to accommodate 7 ft rods and added a pice of mahogany with buttholes (hehehe buttholes) under the shelf.
Added a few grommets to the port side in the fwd bulkhead and in the wall to the microwave compartment.
Already need more.... Will have to add a wall inside anchor locker if I add more up there.
also in pic, my sister-in law re-covered the cushions.
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removed microwave that I'll never use and added a plexiglass door.
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I'd like to remove the faucet from the kitchen sink. Don't need 3 sinks. Seems like a real PIA to remove.
more to come....

Working on this today.
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Where did you get the white round rubber grommets for your rods in the cabin. I wana get some an replace some in my gunnels
 
I toyed with the idea of removing a LOT of the fridge area stuff as I agree, most is pointless and I wanted to try to fit a small bunk for the kiddo....however, that is way low on my priority list.

If I DO get to it, I hope it turns out even half as nice as yours did;)
 
Those squares are normal boat building technique. Everybody does it in decks and hatch lids.
When they make a deck liner or hatch, they have a mold, they spray in release, gelcoat, resin, chopped strand.
Then they press in the squares. They are small enough that they get complete contact with the chopped strand and resin.
Then they cover with resin & chopped strand.
If they used one large piece, it would not lay flat and there would be air gaps.

Another added benefit of wood squares is that water from screw holes can only travel through one square, whereas it would otherwise travel the length of a plywood sheet.

The problem I see with the Grady hatch is that they ran the wood all the way from edge to edge. That means there was only a thin connection of the top & bottom glass at the edges. Over time it separated and water got in.Also, the screws went through wood.
A better (more time consuming and expensive) way is to leave a 1 or 2 inch gap around the edges and build up thick glass there. Then the edge bond is thick and the screws go through glass.

I left a slight gap and filled with high density filler. I didn't make a wide glass edge because, like Grady, I was in a hurry... I did go over the chopped strand with glass cloth and ran it into the filler.

I used 1/2" AB exterior douglas fir and WestSystem epoxy and filler

Roger that after pulling and totally redoing both deck plates my on my 228 a few years back. As far as PIA jobs it wasn't too bad except for the epoxy fumes. I used marine grade plywood and cut squares to size. Good job!
 
Finally got my 1042’s flush mounted and my fusion installed, hope the pic loads...
 

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Been chipping away at stuff between work and quarantine. Had two vacations cancelled, but got a lot done while Ive been home. Removed the painted boat name. buffed waxed the hull and topside. Removed and rebedded most of the deck screws with 4000UV. Also rewired the electronics box with a blue sea fuse block, changed all the connections to heat shrink. New LED hella cube spreader lights. Starboard panel to flush mount a 7'' lowrance and additional VHF. Im just waiting on some neat hinges from gemlux to come in (friction hinges). Still want to change the other electronics box at the wheel over to starboard, then tie in the other stuff to the network and install my airmar thru hull B75m...... also bottom paint.
 

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Been chipping away at stuff between work and quarantine. Had two vacations cancelled, but got a lot done while Ive been home. Removed the painted boat name. buffed waxed the hull and topside. Removed and rebedded most of the deck screws with 4000UV. Also rewired the electronics box with a blue sea fuse block, changed all the connections to heat shrink. New LED hella cube spreader lights. Starboard panel to flush mount a 7'' lowrance and additional VHF. Im just waiting on some neat hinges from gemlux to come in (friction hinges). Still want to change the other electronics box at the wheel over to starboard, then tie in the other stuff to the network and install my airmar thru hull B75m...... also bottom paint.
I wanna do that too. Take all the screws out the deck and recaulk them down. Deck still firm and wanna keep it that way. I see the jersey plates I’m out of LE inlet. Maybe I’ll see you out there this season! Just got about a day or two left of waxing and some other things before hopefully going in next weekend or weekend after.
 

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Been chipping away at stuff between work and quarantine. Had two vacations cancelled, but got a lot done while Ive been home. Removed the painted boat name. buffed waxed the hull and topside. Removed and rebedded most of the deck screws with 4000UV. Also rewired the electronics box with a blue sea fuse block, changed all the connections to heat shrink. New LED hella cube spreader lights. Starboard panel to flush mount a 7'' lowrance and additional VHF. Im just waiting on some neat hinges from gemlux to come in (friction hinges). Still want to change the other electronics box at the wheel over to starboard, then tie in the other stuff to the network and install my airmar thru hull B75m...... also bottom paint.
I'd like to replace the main fuse panel in the helm with the same BS box - need more capacity... Just haven't looked at it to see if there's enough room...