283 access to bilge

[LUNDINROOF]

This is probably not a unique problem to the 283 so maybe some of you can offer some suggestions. The float switch for the rear bilge pump failed last year and try as I could, I could not replace it by putting my arm through either of the two, six inch access holes in the splash well. I temporarily solved the problem by mounting another float switch on a piece of 1/4 inch stainless, and wiring it to the wires going to the existing float switch and then lowering the steel and new switch into the bilge. The stainless keeps the switch from moving and keeps in in one place, more or less???

I want to do a permanent fix and to do so, I want to cut a hole in the splash well and install a 13X17 cam hatch to allow me to be able to replace the switch and eventually the pump when it goes out. The problem is, I hate cutting holes in boats.

Does anyone have another solution or suggestions on making mine pain free?

Grady's customer service says that it is okay to do this because I will not be cutting into any structural members. I forgot to ask them why they didn't give better access to pumps but forgot to. Maybe they expect all their customers to be 89 lb. contortionists.

Any help would be appreciated.

Ed

 

[seasick]

I have the same issue on my 208, 2 - 6 in access holes. Much of the equipment, plumbing and wiring in the bilge is installed in the factory before the top deck mold is glued on. I also looked for a deck plate but the problem I found was that all of the readily available plastic hatches hinged and would not clear the motor cables and harnesses. I was not able to find a 'removable' hatch in plastic just in custom aluminum and the cost was ridiculous. So if you have info on removable hatches, let me know.

 

[LUNDINROOF]

I'm going to have a little problem with the hinged hatch I bought yesterday. It is a Tempress, 13X17 cam-lock. The hatch can be removed from the frame if you can get it open to a vertical position. The hinges can be snapped open to remove the hatch and snapped close to replace it. They might not last forever but this is a location that will have to be accessed at most once every year or two.

I am going to cut the hole off center to the port side and the new hatch will encompass the 6 inch hole on this side. This way, I think I can still get an arm into the bilge and still clear the cables going to the port engine.

This is the biggest hatch I can fit and it will not make it easy to access the pump or switch, but it will make it possible. If I remember correctly, it cost around $80.

As much as I like my Grady I cannot understand why they would put equipment in a place that it cannot be maintained. I wonder if other boat builders do the same thing?

I'll keep you posted.

Ed

 

[seasick]

I'm going to have a little problem with the hinged hatch I bought yesterday. It is a Tempress, 13X17 cam-lock. The hatch can be removed from the frame if you can get it open to a vertical position. The hinges can be snapped open to remove the hatch and snapped close to replace it. They might not last forever but this is a location that will have to be accessed at most once every year or two.

I am going to cut the hole off center to the port side and the new hatch will encompass the 6 inch hole on this side. This way, I think I can still get an arm into the bilge and still clear the cables going to the port engine.

This is the biggest hatch I can fit and it will not make it easy to access the pump or switch, but it will make it possible. If I remember correctly, it cost around $80.

As much as I like my Grady I cannot understand why they would put equipment in a place that it cannot be maintained. I wonder if other boat builders do the same thing?

I'll keep you posted.

Ed

That is an interesting idea and bears looking into. Just curious, on your application which way will the hinge face, towards the motor or towards the deck?

 

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

Before you go with the hinged door, you should look at these too

http://store.gotohmg.com/categories/Pro ... or-Series/

 

[seasick]

Before you go with the hinged door, you should look at these too

http://store.gotohmg.com/categories/Pro ... or-Series/

That looks like a perfect solution. Thanks. These are sold by Great Lakes.

 

[LUNDINROOF]

Thanks for the info. I ordered one from Great Lakes this morning. I think it will work a little better even though the one I ordered is a little narrower, it is longer by three or four inches. I'm sure my friends from West Marine will take back the one they sold me.
Thanks again for your help.

 

[Bob Coco]

This is probably not a unique problem to the 283 so maybe some of you can offer some suggestions. The float switch for the rear bilge pump failed last year and try as I could, I could not replace it by putting my arm through either of the two, six inch access holes in the splash well. I temporarily solved the problem by mounting another float switch on a piece of 1/4 inch stainless, and wiring it to the wires going to the existing float switch and then lowering the steel and new switch into the bilge. The stainless keeps the switch from moving and keeps in in one place, more or less???

I want to do a permanent fix and to do so, I want to cut a hole in the splash well and install a 13X17 cam hatch to allow me to be able to replace the switch and eventually the pump when it goes out. The problem is, I hate cutting holes in boats.

Does anyone have another solution or suggestions on making mine pain free?

Grady's customer service says that it is okay to do this because I will not be cutting into any structural members. I forgot to ask them why they didn't give better access to pumps but forgot to. Maybe they expect all their customers to be 89 lb. contortionists.

Any help would be appreciated.

Ed

I don't have any help for you with your bilge pump but I understand you not liking cutting holes in your boat. I just bought 8 addtiuonal GW rod holders and cringed at installing them. After the first one I was okay and the pain wasn't bad at all. I also added a triple rod holder on the verticle wall in front of the splashwell. I had to drill two deck plates into the back wall of the fish box to install the backing plates and nuts/ washers. Now I'm drilling evereywhere. LOL No more fear!!!

Regards, Bob

 

[LUNDINROOF]

Well, I got to the warehouse around 7 AM Saturday to install the access hatch recommended by "Nothing Else Matters". It came in last week from Great Lakes. If you disregard the two trips to Lowe's, one trip to the hardware store and one to West Marine it turned out much easier that I expected. Not counting road trips, it only took about 30 minutes to cut the hole and screw the frame down. I had purchase caulking to seal the frame to the fiberglass but did not use it because the frame has an "O" ring that seems to seal well enough. Being able to unscrew and remove the frame without having to cut caulking seemed a fair trade-off for what little water might get into the bilge.

I wish I knew how to post pictures because it worked out perfect. Not having hinges made the opening much larger and the hatch seems to hold my weight (260+/-) without deflection.

Thanks for your tip, Nothing Else Matters. If anyone wants to see the hole before and after installation of the hatch, email me.

Ed

 

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

I am glad it worked out for you.

 

[gw204]

Caulk that hatch...especially if you installed it in a wood-cored panel.

 

[LUNDINROOF]

The floor of the motor well is solid fiberglass, not cored. I tried spraying water between the hatch frame and the fiberglass but no water appeared in the bilge. When water does start appearing, ("o" ring goes bad) I might consider caulk but at least now I can properly repair/replace the float switch and eventually the pump when it goes bad. The seal between the hatch and the frame is the same kind of "o" ring and I suspect it will eventually leak also but the pump should be able handle this.

With all this said, who knows, I might go ahead and caulk it when I get it into the water. Right now it's 79 degrees and if this weather keeps up the trout will start biting. I need to hurry and finish my list of things to do and get it in the water.