283 Release Windlass Install/Help

[Playinhookyboat]

Team,

I have a 2009 283 release that did not come with a windlass. I ordered the "windlass kit" from grady but the split anchor hatch where the windlass installs has a 2 inch rise in it where the windlass sits. Since my release doesn't have a pulpit it will cause the V700 windlass to pull on an angle which wont work. Grady said they no longer make the flat hatch needed. I brought it to my local glass guy and he said to cut it and fix it the right way its roughly $3K... Any thoughts here?

Also, wondering if anyone with a 283 release or chase can send some pics of how the split hatch windlass side is secured to the boat. Grady sent some plats but I dont see where they would screw in

 

[glacierbaze]

On my last 2 Gradys, I have replaced the hatch with one piece starboard, or similar, and put the windlass in the center. The Tournament is hinged on the port side, and I used a lock down hasp on the aft edge. The Seafarer is hinged aft, and I thru-bolted the hinges. Both were meant to be templates, but I used the first for years, and put the original hatch back on when I bought the SF. Still using the 'template' on the SF, but I anchor infrequently, and seldom.
edit: I guess I don’t have a picture of the windlass installed on the seafarer. The black one looks like it is sagging in the middle, but the fiberglass is curved. I could open either one, as long as I can get a couple feet of slack.

 

[SkunkBoat]

Team,

I have a 2009 283 release that did not come with a windlass. I ordered the "windlass kit" from grady but the split anchor hatch where the windlass installs has a 2 inch rise in it where the windlass sits. Since my release doesn't have a pulpit it will cause the V700 windlass to pull on an angle which wont work. Grady said they no longer make the flat hatch needed. I brought it to my local glass guy and he said to cut it and fix it the right way its roughly $3K... Any thoughts here?

Also, wondering if anyone with a 283 release or chase can send some pics of how the split hatch windlass side is secured to the boat. Grady sent some plats but I dont see where they would screw in

You can get a pulpit for less than 3k

or raise your roller bracket 2 inches...

 

[Playinhookyboat]

On my last 2 Gradys, I have replaced the hatch with one piece starboard, or similar, and put the windlass in the center. The Tournament is hinged on the port side, and I used a lock down hasp on the aft edge. The Seafarer is hinged aft, and I thru-bolted the hinges. Both were meant to be templates, but I used the first for years, and put the original hatch back on when I bought the SF. Still using the 'template' on the SF, but I anchor infrequently, and seldom.
edit: I guess I don’t have a picture of the windlass installed on the seafarer. The black one looks like it is sagging in the middle, but the fiberglass is curved. I could open either one, as long as I can get a couple feet of slack. View attachment 18476View attachment 18477View attachment 18477View attachment 18478View attachment 18479

I am thinking about using the existing hatch and reinforcing the bottom with starboard and bolting it to the hatch. Then drilling for the windlass and an access port. Enough to support it you think?

 

[DennisG01]

Did you actually set the windlass up there and test/simulate the new angle that the rode would be at? Meaning, maybe it would still work just fine.

or raise your roller bracket 2 inches...

Otherwise... /\ /\ /\ That was my exact thought, too. Shim it. As long as raising it doesn't cause the anchor to hit the boat - but you can check that out easy enough.

 

[SkunkBoat]

Doc... I think the V700 needs to be aligned with the roller.

Hooky..
I'm assuming that since you paid for a Grady kit you want it to look really nice and probably don't want to do glass work yourself.
So choices are;
-buy a bolt on pulpit
-Raise the roller bracket with Starboard or teak or glassed & painted plywood
-Return the very pretty Grady hatches and build your own split hatches from plywood/starboard.

I would probably save the original hatch and build a replacement split hatch.

 

[seasick]

Make a spacer for the anchor roller. That can be a few layers of Starboard or a glassed piece of composite or even wood. It all depends on how you want it to look

 

[Playinhookyboat]

Doc... I think the V700 needs to be aligned with the roller.

Hooky..
I'm assuming that since you paid for a Grady kit you want it to look really nice and probably don't want to do glass work yourself.
So choices are;
-buy a bolt on pulpit
-Raise the roller bracket with Starboard or teak or glassed & painted plywood
-Return the very pretty Grady hatches and build your own split hatches from plywood/starboard.

I would probably save the original hatch and build a replacement split hatch.

I found a guy to take the existing hatch and gut it from the inside. Then rebuild it and reinforce it (grady hatches as foam core and would of never held the force) and drill in the V700. Also we drilled a 4 inch access port in the hatch. Came out very clean. I will add a hatch near the deck like the new ones have if needed later on. Came out mint.