300 Express - Aft bilge pump access

[themikehyde]

It appears the automatic switch for my aft bilge pump is stuck (on). I had to disconnect the breaker for it to turn the pump off. I am curious how to replace it. Bet I can tell is to remove the batteries and maybe the battery base plate? Having not had the batteries out before, I am not sure what access there is with them out. Hoping maybe someone has done this before?

http://www.ourcayoloco.com/images/gradyaftbilgepump.jpg

Also, I found the drain from the cup holders just laying into bilge. Is that design, or did it come loose from somewhere?

Patience for the newbie here!
Mike

 

[themikehyde]

So, I took my scope camera down to the boat last night, and tried to see what type of access there may be to the bilge pump and switch. Only way I see is by reaching behind the battery tray. Out of curiosity, I plugged it back in and the pump did not cut on. I cycled the helm switch a few times to make sure it would work, and it did.

So my question is, I noticed the new switch I ordered is "mercury-free." Could the old switch have some chemical in it, that after warming up, closed the connection, then opened after a cool down period? The reason I ask is because this happened after running the generator all evening and night. The generator is directly over the bilge switch.

Gasping at straws yes, but very curious. It would be nice to put this project off for a bit.
Mike

 

[everwhom]

Hard to guess what is causing the problem, but it's unlikely your existing switch has mercury in it either. What you do know for sure is that the float switch is faulty and you should definitely replace it sooner than later. A stuck bilge pump will run down your battery and Murphy's law will dictate that it will leave you stranded at the worst possible moment or even sink your boat!

 

[themikehyde]

I totally agree on replacing it ASAP. I just need to figure out how to do it! Good thing is I have a dry bilge, and a covered slip.
Mike

 

[reelserious]

Hard to guess what is causing the problem, but it's unlikely your existing switch has mercury in it either. What you do know for sure is that the float switch is faulty and you should definitely replace it sooner than later. A stuck bilge pump will run down your battery and Murphy's law will dictate that it will leave you stranded at the worst possible moment or even sink your boat!

While the above is all good advice, I'd like to clarify that if your bilge pump kills your battery and that leaves you "stranded", you have got the bilge wired to the wrong battery (assuming you have more that one). The bilge should be wired to the house battery and not the cranking battery.

Bottom line though is to get the float switch replaced. It is not that expensive and can save you from a very unhappy surprise. Keep in mind that a covered slip doesn't help if the water comes in from a thru-hull or open seacock leaking.

As far as the drain tube goes, I believe all "newer" Gradys have them, but never really looked to see where they drain to.

Good luck with the repair.

 

[themikehyde]

John, I appreciate that. Trust me, I do plan to replace ASAP. I receive the new switch yesterday. I actually contacted GW product support, and received a response! They sent me the diagram showing the location of the pump, from the book, which I have. They also mentioned accessing the pump from the 6" access plates in the motor well. I had not seen those before, but will look as soon as I get to the boat.

I would like to see the cupholder drains go somewhere other than the bilge. I keep a dry bilge, and with the drains going there, I would have to sponge it out each time I wash the boat down. Maybe someone with a 330 can see where theres go?

Thanks,
Mike

 

[reelserious]

John, I appreciate that. Trust me, I do plan to replace ASAP. I receive the new switch yesterday. I actually contacted GW product support, and received a response! They sent me the diagram showing the location of the pump, from the book, which I have. They also mentioned accessing the pump from the 6" access plates in the motor well. I had not seen those before, but will look as soon as I get to the boat.

I would like to see the cupholder drains go somewhere other than the bilge. I keep a dry bilge, and with the drains going there, I would have to sponge it out each time I wash the boat down. Maybe someone with a 330 can see where theres go?

Thanks,
Mike

I didn't know the plate layout on the 30 Express, but on my 272 I was able to replace both front and back floats from the plates. Not easy but doable.

 

[Fishtales]

The cup holders drain into the bilge by design. If this is a problem for you, maybe plug them up and either cover them when the boat is not in use. Personally not a big deal, but you could always get the cup holders that have the drain plug sealed.

 

[Legend]

I just replaced my plastic cup holders with stainless steel. The new ones come with a screw on cap that gives you the option on drain into the bilge or no drain.

 

[freddy063]

when my switches stick I take a garden hose and blast the stuff out of it, the bulge gets a lot of everything in it, the switch it self gets the crap stuck in it, I use a good soap that will cut oil, grease , blood and fish guts and what every, maybe some on/off cleaner , then rinse it out. I don't use on/off I get the same acid stuff from the hardware store.

 

[freddy063]

Its Muriatic Acid, will clean everything , just have to wash it off metals.

 

[themikehyde]

Thanks all!
Grady actually sent me a pic of the bilge pump, as it was installed at the factory during manufacturing. I believe this will be easier done from the stern, so hopefully next weekend we will take it over to the beach and see what I can do thru those holes. I will note that I do not think it was something in the pump, as the bilge was/is dry.

Since I like keeping a dry bilge, I will either cover or figure some other drain for the cup holders.
In Nags Head for the week, but anxious to get back to my boat!
Mike