33 Express Water Pressure

[gilpri]

My '06 33 Express has low fresh water pressure, and it's getting worse. Cold water pressure is bad and hot is terrible.
The pump runs OK when a faucet opens, and it does shut off - so I know there's no leak.
The manual shows the FW pump and accumulator tank on the port side, somewhere forward of the bait station ( I think, the manual isn't really specific).
I want to check those components but before I go taking things apart, figured I'd ask about getting access to the pump/tank.

Any help or thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks

 

[loubeer]

Check thread history - there have been numerous past posts on this subject. Probably a weakening pump. On mu 2003, the pump is located behind the port side wall of the rear berth. A few screws, remove the wall panel and you'll have full access. As you'll discover when you research, the new pumps do not require an accumulator bladder.

 

[seasick]

Is there a screen/filter between the tank and the pump?

 

[Jmackay4]

On my 2017 the filter is just before the pump. Once you remove the port side panel in the aft cabin most of your questions will be answered.

 

[gilpri]

Thank you all for the help!
I'll post what I find
This forum is such a great resource

 

[wspitler]

Just replaced the pump on my 2007 for same reason. Bought 4 GPM model. Works at 55psi and adjustable. No accumulator required. Easy job! Hot water had air trapped and was very weak. strong stream after several purge cycles. $147 great customer service from:

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[loubeer]

Is there a screen/filter between the tank and the pump?

Yes - certainly worth checking for clog.

 

[seasick]

Yes - certainly worth checking for clog.

The water in the tank tends to grow some slime especially in warmer climates. That slime clogs the screen in the filter. That can reduce flow or shut if off completely. The only way to reduce the slime growth is to frequently drain and flush the water tank ( draining can be a pain) or adding a small amount of bleach to the water. If you use the water to shower, you may not want to do the bleach treatment. A small amount is as little as a quarter to a half cup per ten gallons.
There are probably commercially available treatments but I haven't used any.

 

[gilpri]

I found the pump and cleaned some nasty black slime that covered the filter - that made a big difference but I still wish the pressure was better, especially the hot.
For those who replaced the pump - any model to recommend that does a better job?
I have used bleach in the tank - probably need to increase the amount and flush the tank more often.
Thanks for the help.

 

[wspitler]

See link on my previous post. Adjustable pressure. 55 psi stock They also have a 5GPM model. Worked excellent for me. Used for about a month thus far. No connection to manufacturers or seller.

 

[gilpri]

Thank you - sorry, I missed your previous link.
I'm going to change the pump

 

[kirk a]

If it is a pentair pump, look into rebuilding it. Did mine last year and it was dead simple. I did call pentair with the model number to ensure I purchased the correct rebuild kit. Much easier than replacing the pump entirely.

 

[Automated14]

I installed a 7gpm 60psi pump and it kicks ass! Had to put larger breaker in. 12 wire from breaker to old pump but only 10 amp breaker. I put a 20 in and all good.
I installed a new accumulator. Are you guys saying I don’t need it? If run the water for any length of time the pump cycles on and off a lot

 

[seasick]

I installed a 7gpm 60psi pump and it kicks ass! Had to put larger breaker in. 12 wire from breaker to old pump but only 10 amp breaker. I put a 20 in and all good.
I installed a new accumulator. Are you guys saying I don’t need it? If run the water for any length of time the pump cycles on and off a lot

The pump cycling is not necessarily a bad thing. It may be normal. If your flow is good all it says is that you pump can meet the volume demand. Frequent cycling can also mean that the pressure for the pump to turn on is fairly close to the turn off pressure. Making that range wider will reduce cycling but will also lower the pressure at the end points ( sink, shower,etc). Not all pumps allow you to adjust the spread between turn on and turn off pressure.

 

[Automated14]

It cycles on and off literally every 2 seconds. The old pump would come on and stay on while you were washing ur hands or using the wash down. This one comes on just like the old one but then cycles on/off/on/off very fast. Doesn’t sound right to me. It def maintains kick ass pressure. Enough to flush my engines with a system I made via 12vdc solenoids.

sounds like i need to adjust pressure or ditch the accumulator

 

[wspitler]

The new pump I installed has an internal bypass setting that allows for backflow into the inlet when the pressure is not needed. It helps stabilize the flow and the accumulator is not required. I removed my accumulator when I installed it. All seems to work fine.

 

[Halfhitch]

Make sure there is not a flow reducing washer in the plumbing directly after the pump. Sometimes in an effort to reduce water usage a flow restricter is put in the system causing the pump to create max pressure quickly then as the restricter bleeds off the pump kicks back on replicating the scenario over and over. RV showers are a good example if you have experience there.