330 Express: Forward Float Question

[HMBJack]

in my 2006 330, my forward bilge pump has a float switch that unexpectedly lost it's 12V power feed (switch does not activate bilge pump when lifted). I replaced the switch with a new one and it too did not work. I then determined the switch is not getting 12V of power.

So, with the forward hatch bilge opened, there are two pairs of wires: one pair goes to the bilge pump, another pair goes to the float switch. The power feed to the float switch went dead on me - no idea why...

I see in my Owner's Manual, the reset (or fuse?) is located at the battery selector switch panel at the port stern. I located it and pressed the red button there labeled "Forward bilge" and still no power to the wire in the forward bilge for the float switch.

Any ideas for me?
Might the reset switch have gone bad?

 

[ElyseM]

first, visually check the breaker and power feeds to it. may get your answer right there. then check wire continuity from the breaker to the float. if that is good, check power thru the breaker. breakers do go bad. good luck, ron

 

[HMBJack]

Thanks Ron. I'll remove the battery switch panel and have a look at the back side behind the reset button for the forward float switch.

Of course it is a semi-wet or damp area and after 12 years, who knows what's going on back there.

 

[seasick]

The float circuit is wired directly to a batter with usually an inline fuse. The manual operation on the other hand is powered from the console switches and associated breakers
So in your case start looking at the battery for a fuse and a connection. The feed is before the battery switch

 

[ElyseM]

The float circuit is wired directly to a batter with usually an inline fuse. The manual operation on the other hand is powered from the console switches and associated breakers
So in your case start looking at the battery for a fuse and a connection. The feed is before the battery switch

i can't speak for any boat other than mine, but the hot comes off of the line stud on the back of the battery switch. which is effectively directly from the battery. then to the breaker.

last year i tore down and cleaned, greased and coated all the contacts behind the panel. worth the effort once you open it up. good luck, ron

 

[Fishtales]

I would get a DVM and trace the wire to the battery, then the hot side of the float breaker then the other side and finally the float itself.
Could be a lot of things - bad wire, bad connection, broken or mice eaten wire or even the connection at the battery was never made after layup?

 

[grady33]

If those wires are running from the battery through the SB side and up through hard top, there is a panel there with the same connector that's behind the panel with a few hot wires and ground. Don't know if this is the cause, but my radio box and hardtop lights went out and when I opened the access panel above the step to the right of livewell, wires were corroded and at least two wires had pulled out. My boat is 2006 and well cared for and that area is dry yet the wires were corroded. Salt! May want to check this area to make sure you don't have a problem there.