The Sealand black water holding tank on our 360 has blown out its tanksaver valve while offshore in the GOM twice in the past month. The valve is the device set in the top-rear of the holding tank that is supposed to vent air into the tank during vacuum pump outs to protect the tank from imploding. Well that's just great but what about protecting the rest of the boat from the effluent when the valve comes out and the stuff sloshes all over the starboard wing compartment and into the bilge stinking up the whole boat. The 1.5 inch diameter check valve sits in a 2 inch grommet that goes into a hole in the top of the tank. Both are friction fit devices with no threads or set screws to hold in place.
The tank was only half full both times and the sloshing in the tank obviously forced the valve out. After the first time I squeezed into the compartment and replaced the valve, which was no simple trick considering my size and the rest of the hardware in that space.
Now I have to remove the facade wall on the starboard side of the aft berth and cut out more of the bulkhead, remove the six steering and throttle actuators and associated hoses and cables to the Yami outboards and various other electronic modules before even getting to the holding tank and all of its piping and wiring so I can get it out of the boat, power wash it and wash out the compartment and the bilges all the way to the stern. And then reassemble the whole thing again.
Sorry I got carried away. The local repair guys say this happens all the time with holding tanks. So when I reinstall another tanksaver valve - which Sealand promotes as a plus for not having any threads! - after cleaning the whole thing and replacing the duckbill valves and tanks level sensors since it will be out of the boat, has anyone tried gluing the valve into the grommet and then screwing the grommet to the tank top to keep it in place? I do not want to do this job twice! Actually, now I am thinking about finding a way to patch that 2 inch hole and drilling a new hole in the front top of the tank for the valve so that it is easier to reach and perhaps not subject to as much sloshing force.
I definitely will not run in anything bigger than calm water with anything in that damn tank again. It is a poor design by Dometic/Sealand and poor layout by GW for putting the tank in such a way that the valve is on the backend.
The tank was only half full both times and the sloshing in the tank obviously forced the valve out. After the first time I squeezed into the compartment and replaced the valve, which was no simple trick considering my size and the rest of the hardware in that space.
Now I have to remove the facade wall on the starboard side of the aft berth and cut out more of the bulkhead, remove the six steering and throttle actuators and associated hoses and cables to the Yami outboards and various other electronic modules before even getting to the holding tank and all of its piping and wiring so I can get it out of the boat, power wash it and wash out the compartment and the bilges all the way to the stern. And then reassemble the whole thing again.
Sorry I got carried away. The local repair guys say this happens all the time with holding tanks. So when I reinstall another tanksaver valve - which Sealand promotes as a plus for not having any threads! - after cleaning the whole thing and replacing the duckbill valves and tanks level sensors since it will be out of the boat, has anyone tried gluing the valve into the grommet and then screwing the grommet to the tank top to keep it in place? I do not want to do this job twice! Actually, now I am thinking about finding a way to patch that 2 inch hole and drilling a new hole in the front top of the tank for the valve so that it is easier to reach and perhaps not subject to as much sloshing force.
I definitely will not run in anything bigger than calm water with anything in that damn tank again. It is a poor design by Dometic/Sealand and poor layout by GW for putting the tank in such a way that the valve is on the backend.