83 Tournament 19 Leaking Fuel Tank

[Leigh]

While winterizing my 83 Tournament 19, I found water in the fuel. I drained about 5 gallons from the tank before getting all fuel. When I tried to top off the tank, I noticed that when the level reached the top of the filler neck, it would soon disapear. I pulled the tank hatch and found the compartment was filled with water and fuel. Apparently the hatch cover is not water tight and the drain to the bilge is blocked.
After draining out the water and fuel, the aluminum tank was covered with a crystaline deposit. Salt? At any rate, the top of the tank is pitted and has a few small holes corroded through. I can patch these small holes but have no idea what the sides or bottom look like. I think the only safe thing to do is replace the 40 gallon tank.
I am trying to decide if I want to tackle this job myself or have a shop do it. I am looking for suggestions and costs if I do it myself or take it to a shop. I would appreciate any and all advice.

Leigh

 

[gw204]

Tanks usually cost around $10/gal so figure $400 for that. Since you're in NJ, check out www.speedytanks.com. I don't think they are necessarily the cheapest out there, but you'll save on shipping because they are close.

You'll also want to replace all the fill, vent and supply lines at the same time. I'm going to take a guess and say you'll end up spending about $150 for those if you shop around and don't buy your lines at West Marine. Online vendors have much better prices. Boatfix.com is one of my favorites.

The job itself isn't hard. Once you get the tank cover up, there will be some wood supports/wedges you have to unscrew and you may need to trim a bit off of the lip under the tank cover in order to be able to slide the tank out. Before the new tank goes in, it'll need to be etched and painted with an epoxy paint (coal tar epoxy or I like Interprotect) in order to best protect it from corrosion. Once that's done, installation is just the opposite of removal.

Make sure you cault the screws holes in the tank cover VERY well. Those screws probably run right down into the stringers...

Good luck.

 

[Leigh]

GW204

Thanks for your rapid and very thorough reply. You even answered one of the questions I forgot to ask. As I look at the length of the tank and the size of the opening, I could not figure out how the tank could come out. Trimming the forward flange, which is about 4 inches wide, should make the opening large enough. That being the case, how did the tank get in the hole initially?

I bought this boat 3 years ago and don't know any of the previous history. My guess, looking at the workmanship of the tank installation, this was not done at the Grady factory. The screws holding down the hatch cover only went through the fiberglass flange, not to anything more solid.

Regards,

Leigh

 

[toolguy73]

GW204

Thanks for your rapid and very thorough reply. You even answered one of the questions I forgot to ask. As I look at the length of the tank and the size of the opening, I could not figure out how the tank could come out. Trimming the forward flange, which is about 4 inches wide, should make the opening large enough. That being the case, how did the tank get in the hole initially?

I bought this boat 3 years ago and don't know any of the previous history. My guess, looking at the workmanship of the tank installation, this was not done at the Grady factory. The screws holding down the hatch cover only went through the fiberglass flange, not to anything more solid.

Regards,

Leigh

I'm not familiar with your 19 Tournament, but had an 83 24' Tournament, and now an 87 Gulfsteam. Tank installations were identical, even though I never changed them. The tank(s) go in before the deck cap goes on. Positioning and securing them was simple, but effective. Some wood wedges, screws, and rubber strips. Your tank is probably original. I'm not familiar with the 4" flange you're talking about, but I've heard that the side flanges need trimming to get the tank out.

There are a few threads here about tank replacements.

The hatch hold down screws on my boats only went through the fiberglass flanges. I think that was a smart move by GW. Screws into wood on a boat can lead to problems. If the screw holes in the flanges are stripped, you'll have to get creative with something to back up the fiberglass. That hatch needs to be secure, and sealed from water intrusion. Plastic lumber from a big box store works well. Replace any deck plates in the hatch while you're at it. Tempress makes the replacements, in the right color, and they sell direct. When you order them, get extra o-rings.

You can do this. Some basic hand tools, a few power tools and patience will get it done.

 

[mjhillsr]

When I replaced my tank in a 1991 tournament, I ordered a smaller tank by 2 inches in length to ease installation.
Original tank was 60 gal, while the new one is 56.5. I called Grady White and they sent me a diagram of the tank,
and at the bottom of the diagram was a note to replace with a smaller tank. Getting the old tank out was the
hard part.

 

[Leigh]

I trimmed the front flange and was able to remove the tank.There was a great deal of debris on the bottom of the hatch. When I unglogged the drain, I was surprised to see that the hatch would not completely drain. I put a fiberglass rod through the drain pipe. It went into the bilge and exited the bilge drain hole. Since the bilge drain is at the bottom of the bilge, there is no way that the tank hatch will ever drain completely. Any water in the bilge will back up into the tank hatch.
It was my impression that it was advisable that the tank hatch should remain completely dry. Any one have an opinion about this?

Leigh

 

[toolguy73]

The PVC pipe that drains the tank area should be plugged where it empties into the rear bilge. A regular rubber screw type plug is all that GW used there.

 

[Leigh]

Toolguy,

Thanks for your reply. I will see if I can get to the drain pipe by reaching through the 6" deck plate in the engine well over the bilge. Do you agree that the fuel tank hatch should remain dry? By the way, the tank is original to this 83 Tournament.

 

[toolguy73]

Toolguy,

Thanks for your reply. I will see if I can get to the drain pipe by reaching through the 6" deck plate in the engine well over the bilge. Do you agree that the fuel tank hatch should remain dry? By the way, the tank is original to this 83 Tournament.

On my 2 boats, that plug was loosely secured to the bulkhead with a short piece of brass chain. I guess so it wouldn't go far.

If by 'hatch' you mean the compartment where the tank sits; yes it has to be as watertight as can be. Not just for water,but fumes, too.
Usually, the water in there enters from the perimeter of the deck hatch, the screw holes, and the deck plates.

Again, My knowlege is from the exeriences with my boats, neither being a 19' tournament.