Unless the sun is on what you are doing, it' s too cold for resin work.
The resin/hardener viscocity changes tremendously in those temp ranges. Curing is another issue, you don't want to apply resin when it is viscous.
Cloth will take longer to wet out, no big deal just time, but wood will not get the penetration depth and that's a no-no. If glass is set onto plywood, ripping off the glass should take plenty of wood with it, you can do an experiment. If no wood with it, no good is the bond.
Also, once resin sets (can't stick thumb nail into, I prefer using the back of hand for "tackiness"), you have to cut the surface to get a bond, two directions of 60 or 80 grit plus water/scotchbrite off the amine blush prior. That's a lot of extra work. Have to vacuum the dust and acetone wipe too.
If you want to do your first layer of wood against existing glass and come back later, just don't wet out the other side until then. tripple wet out end grains,
Then you should have all of your layers of wood cut and ready to go, and holes to clamp it down predrilled with screws and driver handy, and precut your cloth too and mark pieces in the order of where to go and which is next, I use small sticky note pads and a diagram of numbers by piece. For wood or glass, make sure you use 60 or 80 grit by belt sander or hand block prior (grinder does not count), vacuum dust, acetone or denatured alcohol clean.
West systems is not a light(er) visocity resin as they used to call themselves medium viscosity. So be minded especially of visocity based on ambient. The resin will change in an instand in a thin pot or layed or brushed out even if warmed in the house.
I'd not start the (resin)job or pick a day when it's going to at least 70 deg F daytime or 65 in the sun, and use a slow hardener.
Use plenty of silica thickened resin with a plastic notched trowel on the existing skin againt first layer of wood, and always prewet wood with regular resin, I prefer the thin foam rollers, chip brushes lay it down too thick for laminating. When using chip brushes - cut off half the hair with a fiskars - better to spread with since now stiffer instead of limp. Make sure when you thicken your resin it does not run out when clamping the wood together, that' s a reason some use glass in between, glass in between also stiffens the structure. Some use glass and thicked resin togther. Some thicked resin will squeeze out, but must not run. Make sure you have plenty of silica so not to run out, it dissapears fast.
DIYers typically overbuild and are proud of it, as I am.
Wetting a heavy cloth like 1708 on a vertical surface is ridiculous along with the thick pot syndrome that goes with it, you can wet out all your cloth on a table over a sheet of clear heavier plastic to save time, leave it wet well, roll it up or fold it and furl out on the wood, if the wet out cloth drips on the way to the boat, it will work fine just the same as if wet out on the vertical - but save time. Over mix the resin pots and pool up from the first cloth piece and after folding it up, place the next piece in that left over pot on the plastic, when you come back it will be absored, then continue to over mix pots to wet each out in sequence. Mixing pots to economize by piece always leads to needing one more mixed pot, again more time.
Good luck, your ne transom will last forever and be stronger than the original!
