86 overnighter through the hulls

[BobP]

It's a shame what we have to deal with - I guess the stainless fitting manufactures could care less about rust staining our boats!
I don't get it.
Besides no rust, no electrolysis with plastic and marlon, what wonderful materials!

Anyway.

If you have underwater bronze now elsewhere and it is not bonded and not discoloring to strange colors or being eaten away, I'd say the bonds are not necessary. Watch your underwater & motor zincs - be sure they don't fret away during the season. If you have tabs w/o zincs, put zincs on them. After installation, inspect the fittings regularly to see if anything is happening, if so you can add the bonds later.

I have underwater bronze now incl. bronze thruhulls at the waterline - no bonding, and no trouble at all, and only bronze I intend to stay with.
Above one foot higher than waterline, all white plastic as new, so I'll never see a stinking rust stain, nor pay a premium to buy rust.

I have not done my transom scuppers yet since I can't find straight bronze, I guess I'll have to go with chrome on bronze. Care less for the chrome but will feel funny grinding it off when I paid extra for it!

Big hole in the ocean!

 

[timo14]

I remember when I had my boat apart that you could "see" the thru-hull fittings through the hole when you remove the drawers on the port side. I think you could get to that one pretty easily... might need a sink faucet wrench though. On the starbord, you can see the fitting if you take off the wood wire chase thing inside the cabin. From memory, it would be a long reach though.

My question here is, what is the best kind of thru-hull, bronze, stainless??? I read Rainmaker used chromed Bronze, but i didn't see that one on any online stores. How are they measured too... thread size?

Thanks,
Tim

 

[gradyfish22]

I'd go with straight bronze if you can find them, or chrome over bronze. Stainless over time will likely leave rust mark's, the other's will not be as bad. I have chrome over bronze....damn chrome is starting to flake off, but the bronze below is perfect so I do not mind.

I have a simpler solution, maybe small boats in the industry will start to do it, glass in fiberglass tube's, we buidl our boats this way and it prevents any issues with thru hulls and gives a much cleaner look in the end. The end product matches the hull gelcoat and everything is made and done in house, no purchasing of outside materials. There is very little added labor over a thru hull. It is glasses in so it is permanent and lasts the life of the boat and we make them long enough so you can get 2 clamps on every hose, even 3 if you wanted. Would be a great solution to all of these problems and the first small boat builder to do it would be "revolutionary" even though a few bigger boat's have been doing it for years.

 

[timo14]

I'd go with straight bronze if you can find them, or chrome over bronze.

Who makes the chrome over bronze? I cant seem to find them on-line.

 

[BobP]

What size? I'll post the link to Perko -

 

[BobP]

http://pdf.nauticexpo.com/pdf/perko/cat ... -_147.html

 

[timo14]

Thanks Bob! Dont know what size they are... boats at home & I'm at work. I'm not sure how they are measured anyway, I'll probably have to pull them out then match the size.

 

[BobP]

The catalog is huge, just find the right page, Perko is big on bronze and chrome over bronze. If your Perko dealer doesn't have thee model, he can order it for you I would expect.

Atwood, groco, whitecap, and Gemlux are big on stainless.

I'm waiting for the member who uses titanium to jump in with his supplier!

It's a big hole in the ocean. Anyone for solid gold ?
It will appreciate and be worth more than hull one day!

 

[BobP]

You measure what you need by hose size.

Chrome is brilliant, a lot more so than any stainless.
When the chrome comes off eventually, different story. Perhaps that's why Grady changed over, from plastic, to chrome bronze, to stainless now. And stainless got cheaper over the years, stainless and chrome over bronze are similar price.

I've heard, don't know how true, stainless thru hull bodies have smaller ODs since the walls are thinner, so may be a little loose in some holes - no pun intended.

I think the bronze are as thick as plastic.

Down by the waterline I'm not using any chrome, only bronze straight up, paint right over it with copper antifouling, no problem. Grady had the SW pickup and screen of bronze, and the bronze head discharge thruhull under waterline, no problems - all original on my boat.

Well above the waterline, only white plastic or acetal resin (whatever that is) replacements.

And I prefer the smallest flange outside, don't know why, but the stainless flanges are huge, makes no sense at all, especially since they are much stronger than plastic.

People may like looking at them I guess.

I prefer the white uninterrupted expanse of the hull shape to look at , rather pleasing to me, and hold the buckshot and mayo please!

Good luck, I'm all out on thruhulls!

 

[BUZZCUDA]

just to update grady did respond and offered some help. Basicly stating that some cutting may be needed on the port side and the cover on the starboard is good starting point. This is one of the reasons that covers were added on the later modles.

Thank you all so much for your input,skills,knowledge and ideas! this truly is nieghbor helping nieghbor in the true american spirit!

 

[cdwood]

Tim, everything was re-done. For the deck drains I liked Atwood scuppers with the flap because they are SS and the flaps are easily replaced. For the motor well and the garboard drain I followed a former poster's advice. He's no longer allowed to post here cause he got a little fiesty and they may have even blocked any search of his old posts which I think is wrong but he was a great source. I spoke with jimmy of jimmy's marine many times, he never made a dime off of me but was always more than willing to share his expertise. His approach to these 3 holes was to overdrill the hole, fill with west and cabosil and redrill for needed size. If done correctly you will end up with a hole thru pure epoxy thus never exposing the wood to water. If memory serves me, and this is what I did on both the motor well and garboard drain, overdrill slightly, epoxy in a piece of PVC and the mount your garboard drain or finish the edges of the motor well tubes.

Chris Wood, time on the water is time well spent.

 

[BobP]

Nothing wrong with advise, the question is, can a sealant at the flange get the job done when properly applied?

Same advice is offered many places, ususlly for strenght to keep from crushing the core for heavier loads.

Go as far as you want or need to go.

Buy the way situation had nothing to do with being fiesty.

The truth is the truth, playing it down doesn't change anything.

 

[cdwood]

Pretty confident, in view of the fact that the transom is already sealed in epoxy and pvc, by properly drilling and embedding the screws for the mount in epoxy and bedding the drain in 5200 that this will hold up for quite a while.

 

[BobP]

When you get a chance following the same logic and advise, count how many hundreds of drillings grady bored into wood on your boat:

The hardtop
foredeck and gunnel railings,
rub rail,
hinges
nav lights
gas tank cover and bilge cover screws
deck plate screws
gunnel and bow cleats,
transom cleats
windshield base,
gunnel rod holders,
gunnel outrigger holders,
and everything else I missed.

Why stop at the few you are doing, when there are hundreds?
What security do you have?

I'm sure you can have them all done with the resin/cabosil fill, no problem bring the boat in, he's waiting for your call. Best time of year in get before it gets busy.

 

[cdwood]

Main concern here was the fact that they are below the waterline.

 

[timo14]

Main concern here was the fact that they are below the waterline.

I agree.

 

[cdwood]

Bob, I'm missing your point here. We were discussing the garboard drain only. Is this why you and jimmy hit it off so well?

 

[sfc2113]

I remember when I had my boat apart that you could "see" the thru-hull fittings through the hole when you remove the drawers on the port side. I think you could get to that one pretty easily... might need a sink faucet wrench though. On the starbord, you can see the fitting if you take off the wood wire chase thing inside the cabin. From memory, it would be a long reach though.

My question here is, what is the best kind of thru-hull, bronze, stainless??? I read Rainmaker used chromed Bronze, but i didn't see that one on any online stores. How are they measured too... thread size?

Thanks,
Tim

Had to do exactly what Tims says on my 86 204c, it was a real pain! and not meant for someone with short arms and chubby fingers for sure, plus the plastic thru hulls were stuck to the hoses pretty good even after we removed the clamps they would not come out. I would have rather have gone to the dentist for a drilling without novicane!. My son learned allot ot curse words that day. Good luck dude.

 

[BobP]

Cdwood, you weren't discussing the garboard drain ONLY.
Do do understand now my reply?

If you want to destroy this site by driving away regular contibutors with a wide range of varied backgrounds and opinions, discourage new members from joining, and end up with a one opinion reply board, go right ahead and keep doing what you are doing.

Don't wish too hard, it may come true.

I'm surprised, since you are one of the last two or three left here, the others have already jumped ship.

 

[cdwood]

Bob, what are you trying to start here? I addressed a post to timo regarding transom thru hulls and drains which was the original topic of the post and you want to hijack the post with some tirade about the hundreds of other holes in the boat put there by Grady, none of which by the way are anywhere near the water line. Does the mere mention of jimmy's name infuriate you that much? Don't know what transpired between you and him but you need to get over it and stop taking aim at me.

To answer your your question, no I don't understand your reply at all.

If anything it's guys like you that lash out at people that drag good sites down.