Thinking about installing the A/C unit myself, has anyone out there installed one? it comes with instructions but just wandering if there is anything hidden I should know about
A/C
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PointedRose
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There was a thorough thread recently if you search back a couple months
update: here is the thread I was thinking of
www.greatgrady.com
update: here is the thread I was thinking of
AC Install in 282. It Works!
Lookin' good, blondie! :) This plexiglass has a unique property. Somehow it filters out grey and restores blonde. Because, believe me, its harder and harder to find anything but grey up there. I know because my daughter very kindly tells me each time she comes home from college. I'm only 49...
www.greatgrady.com
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Fishtales
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A few have done it. If you look at the units, they are fairly basic small ac units. The hardest part is figuring out the wiring and air ducts. That being said, go to the boat shows and see how it is done. You could try the factory to see if they have any tips or documentation. Not sure this would pan out, but worth a shot. Search this site as well. A couple of guys have done it (cabin and helm areas).
wahoo33417
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Amongst the other practicalities, you'll need to consider where you'll place your through-hull fitting for the condensing sea water water source. Some have placed the thru-hull in the rear bilge and the 500 GPH pump pumped water forward to the unit just fine. I wasn't comfortable cutting a new thru-hull. So I used the existing overboard discharge in the forward bilge, since we never pump overboard anyway. That eliminated a big "do-it-yourself" step. Of course, most big marinas likely have access to a professional who can do the work. I just prefer the least amount of thru-hull seacocks as possible.
wahoo33417
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Tom: I purchased a Mermaid AC unit out of Ft. Myers, FL. I read some good reviews, but I don't really know if they are one of the better units or not. What struck me was that many reviews said they were geared for the do-it-yourselfer and provide greater assistance after the sale. I found this to be true. I called Tom four times about things I was unsure of. Mostly electrical. Tome patiently assisted each time.
I did order a few accessories like a sea strainer and Y-bleed-off valve when I ordered my unit from Mermaid. I subsequently learned, on this great Forum, that those plastic pieces were not the best pieces to place below the water line of the boat. So I replaced those pieces with bronze at greater cost that didn't approach the greater peace of mind.
The unit itself was easy to understand and fairly lightweight as ACs go.
As fishtales said, figuring out the ducting is the hard part. (wiring wasn't bad for me.) I had visions of 4" insulated ducting all around and a very efficient install. Yea, right. There was no way 4" insulated was gonna be pulled through those spaces. So 4" dryer vent hose it is. Look for the tough stuff, wire reinforced. I can't tell that it loses any cold temp from the unit to the outlet vent. But I lost two weeks and some blood wrestling with it.
Feel free to ask any questions.
How hard could it be? Find space, route plumbing, run ducts, mount unit and connect to power 
Seriously though, it can be a daunting job.
Seriously though, it can be a daunting job.
wahoo33417
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Having just finished the job on a 282, I'll offer some suggested questions to ask yourself.
On an Islander, I'm guessing 5,000-5,500 BTU would be sufficient cooling power. Do you have a place to put a unit of that size?
From that space, can you run 4" ducting some distance from the unit and where the cold air from that dicting can be directed to the remainder of the cabin. The idea, obviously, is to not "short circuit" the air circulation.
From your chosen space can you run a water line to both a thru-hull source (this is water in) and another water line (water out) to an overboard drain about 18" or so above the boat's waterline?
Condensation will come off the unit. This can be directed to you bilge via a small hose. Or you can direct it to you shower sump (if you have one) where it can be pumped overboard.
Lastly, is the wiring. This can be a bear. I cheated. I used the wiring that led to my old, rusted, but still working hot water heater, which we never used. If not for that, I may have called a marine electrician that I have used before and let him snake those wires and know it was done right. Wiring from the unit to the control box and then from the control box to the thermostat was nearly a color-coded plug and play. Mermaid made that part very easy.
Good luck!
On an Islander, I'm guessing 5,000-5,500 BTU would be sufficient cooling power. Do you have a place to put a unit of that size?
From that space, can you run 4" ducting some distance from the unit and where the cold air from that dicting can be directed to the remainder of the cabin. The idea, obviously, is to not "short circuit" the air circulation.
From your chosen space can you run a water line to both a thru-hull source (this is water in) and another water line (water out) to an overboard drain about 18" or so above the boat's waterline?
Condensation will come off the unit. This can be directed to you bilge via a small hose. Or you can direct it to you shower sump (if you have one) where it can be pumped overboard.
Lastly, is the wiring. This can be a bear. I cheated. I used the wiring that led to my old, rusted, but still working hot water heater, which we never used. If not for that, I may have called a marine electrician that I have used before and let him snake those wires and know it was done right. Wiring from the unit to the control box and then from the control box to the thermostat was nearly a color-coded plug and play. Mermaid made that part very easy.
Good luck!