Adding a Windless Anchor

You will still need to go up to the bow to release and attach the safety clip. Additionally you will need to cleat off the anchor line/rode when setting and pulling the anchor. I cannot tell from the picture, Where do you plan on cleating it off?
 
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drbatts said:
You will still need to go up to the bow to release and attach the safety clip. Additionally you will need to cleat off the anchor line/rode when setting and pulling the anchor. I cannot tell from the picture, Where do you plan on cleaning it off?
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I do need to add a cleat to tie it off. I’m not sure what you mean about cleaning it off.
 
jmoneilthe2 said:
I'll probably get a new anchor, that's the original one that came with the boat
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The anchor is fine - as long as it will fit nicely in the roller.

I was making a joke about the upside down part :) But what I meant is that that is not how an anchor will naturally come up into the roller. The flukes will swing the other way as the shank comes over the roller. WHAT HAPPENS if you pull the anchor in by the windlass as opposed to setting it there by hand? Will the anchor clear the boat?

It looks like you're using a securing pin to keep the anchor there? That's fine, as long as that pin will "stay" secured. But, it would be a good idea to a secondary securment - a tether.

You mentioned "straps"... do you mean metal strapping that is run on the underside of the anchor hatch to secure it better... and it spans across the anchor hatch to the actual deck... and then that space you made is through bolted to the strapping?
 
DennisG01 said:
The anchor is fine - as long as it will fit nicely in the roller.

I was making a joke about the upside down part :) But what I meant is that that is not how an anchor will naturally come up into the roller. The flukes will swing the other way as the shank comes over the roller. WHAT HAPPENS if you pull the anchor in by the windlass as opposed to setting it there by hand? Will the anchor clear the boat?

It looks like you're using a securing pin to keep the anchor there? That's fine, as long as that pin will "stay" secured. But, it would be a good idea to a secondary securment - a tether.

You mentioned "straps"... do you mean metal strapping that is run on the underside of the anchor hatch to secure it better... and it spans across the anchor hatch to the actual deck... and then that space you made is through bolted to the strapping?
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Yes there two large straps next to each hinge
 
jmoneilthe2 said:
Yes there two large straps next to each hinge
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No to belabor this, but it's not clear if you reinforced as I described above... or if the straps are only in contact with the actual hatch. Under light load conditions, it'll work just fine without doing what I mentioned - but with a heavy pull, I'd be really worried that it could pull the hatch out. It's your boat, though, so of course do as you wish.
 
DennisG01 said:
No to belabor this, but it's not clear if you reinforced as I described above... or if the straps are only in contact with the actual hatch. Under light load conditions, it'll work just fine without doing what I mentioned - but with a heavy pull, I'd be really worried that it could pull the hatch out. It's your boat, though, so of course do as you wish.
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The hatch door is reinforced with 3x5 inch straps. The Windlass is mounted on a 6x18x1/2 inch sheet of heavy duty plexiglass and that is mounted to the bow of the boat and the anchor hatch.
 

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you'll likely need 2ga from your battery, to a circuit breaker up to the contractor, then to the windlass.
 
Ah, thanks for the pictures. That helps clear up what you meant by "straps".

The plexi would actually be more helpful mounted UNDER the deck/hatch as that's where the reinforcement is actually needed. But if you reinforced the thru-bolts of the plexi with extra large washers, that will be sufficient.

I think your strap idea is a good one. Ideally, thru-bolted... but if you only screwed it in, you've got enough of them that it would take a really big force to start to pull them out - since the force would be fighting the shear strength, as well.

Yes, 2g is way overkill. Regardless of the what the manual says, the proper way to do things is to do the simple roundtrip calculation using amperage based on the 10% table. But the lesser expensive windlasses tend to draw less power... assuming this is the case, 8g is very likely just fine for a 22' boat.
 
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