Adding a

[Lt.Mike]

The image below shows the fender arrangement I use to keep my hull safe when launching and retrieving from the ramp and it’s dock.
The orange ball guards the flare at the bow when the stern line isn’t as tight as it could be and it turns in to rub the bow.

I’d like to add a cleat pretty much where you see the orange balls rope hanging.
I think it would be better hanging from a cleat than the rail. I’d put it pretty much above the registration decal.


Ok this is where I’d like to pick your brain...
The mid cleat in this image is like what I want to put up front and like that spot this one is not accessible from underneath.
Is this cleat held by just 4 large screws drilled into plywood (?) beneath?
would it be the same in front where I want to put it as it is where the mid cleat is?
If so adding a cleat would seem to be a simple job.

 

[SkunkBoat]

My experience is that grady deck hardware is thru-bolted, with washers and nuts

 

[DennisG01]

You could hang it from the stanchion base as that would be much stronger. Or, install a fender cleat - the kind with the little, nylon peg would work perfect and be super easy to install. You can screw it into the horizontal surface there - that area will have MORE than enough meat for a fender cleat.

 

[seasick]

I m not a fan of fenders hanging off of railings. If for whatever reason that ball gets hung up at the slip, a lot of force might be put on the rail.
You could add a loop of line from the bow cleat to the mid cleat and hang the ball from that line. All the forces would be on the cleats

 

[Lt.Mike]

You could hang it from the stanchion base as that would be much stronger. Or, install a fender cleat - the kind with the little, nylon peg would work perfect and be super easy to install. You can screw it into the horizontal surface there - that area will have MORE than enough meat for a fender cleat.

I’ll look into a fender cleat for sure if I can’t thru bolt it. Thanks
ya hanging it from the rail isn’t good I know but I’ve buffed our scratches in the bow I don’t want to see happen again. Gotta do something.

 

[PointedRose]

+1 stainless through bolts with good washers. Can use a backing plate and use good sealant (3m 4000, lifeseal, butyl tape, etc). When you drill the holes, drill a pilot hole, then up to exact bolt size, then countersink with a larger drill bit to prevent gel coat cracking and provide a good seal. If you can use a drill bit guide to get perfectly straight that’s ideal, but yes, simple job. There’s smaller ‘pad eye’ style that you could use instead of a cleat. To be honest, it’s an awkward spot for a cleat - dealer installs midship cleats because it’s used for spring lines at the dock. Yours would solely be used for the fenders? Maybe this instead

Schaefer Stainless Steel Welded Pad Eye - 3"L X 1"W

SCHAEFER PAD EYE STAINLESS STEEL WELDED 3L X 1WStainless Steel Welded Pad Eye 3L x 1WSpecificationsEye Width 78 22 mmEye Height 78 22 mmEye Stock 14 6 mmLength 3 76 mmWidth 1 25 mmFasteners 2, 14 RH 6 mmCC 2316 5...

www.hodgesmarine.com

 

[DennisG01]

ya hanging it from the rail isn’t good I know but I’ve buffed our scratches in the bow I don’t want to see happen again. Gotta do something.

Yup, understood. But at the stanchion base would be totally fine for this application. It wouldn't be something where I would leave a fender there 24/7 without being there - but for your use... more than adequate and it's free!

 

[Lt.Mike]

+1 stainless through bolts with good washers. Can use a backing plate and use good sealant (3m 4000, lifeseal, butyl tape, etc). When you drill the holes, drill a pilot hole, then up to exact bolt size, then countersink with a larger drill bit to prevent gel coat cracking and provide a good seal. If you can use a drill bit guide to get perfectly straight that’s ideal, but yes, simple job. There’s smaller ‘pad eye’ style that you could use instead of a cleat. To be honest, it’s an awkward spot for a cleat - dealer installs midship cleats because it’s used for spring lines at the dock. Yours would solely be used for the fenders? Maybe this instead

Schaefer Stainless Steel Welded Pad Eye - 3"L X 1"W

SCHAEFER PAD EYE STAINLESS STEEL WELDED 3L X 1WStainless Steel Welded Pad Eye 3L x 1WSpecificationsEye Width 78 22 mmEye Height 78 22 mmEye Stock 14 6 mmLength 3 76 mmWidth 1 25 mmFasteners 2, 14 RH 6 mmCC 2316 5...

www.hodgesmarine.com

Though I’ve used the front and back cleats the mid cleats get more use lately than the others. I’ve found for ramp use a single line off the mid cleat holds the boat straight along the dock for the time I’m there and is fast to tie and cast off. My boat is otherwise slipped under a carport

 

[HMBJack]

Your white fenders look a bit small to me and the orange ball is too big and unnecessary in my opinion.

I'd upsize your white fenders and consider a 3rd. Hanging a third from the rail post is no problem since it doesn't take much of a load.

Most of all - if you get good at launching and retrieving at the boat ramp, what you're considering will not be necessary. Just sayin...

p.s. I'd worry more about your white nylon thru hull fittings at the water line. They are prone to UV damage and leaking.

 

[Lt.Mike]

The orange ball actually fits in the bow flare really well keeping the bow from pivoting in and rubbing.
That’s happened not once but twice and I was barely able to buff it out.
These only need to do their job for about 15 minutes tops if no one else is waiting and I’m dragging my feet.
The thru hulls are still on very good condition as the boat has never been kept stored in the water but rather on a trailer under a carport and cover when I’m not washing it or doing other wet work.
Been launching and trailer boating some 40 years. I could say I’ve got it down but there’s always something that could be tweaked.