Adding rod holders to 272?

[fishbust]

Anyone add rod holders to these boats? Maybe one aft of the starboard side aft cleat or on the transom or between the 2 already on each side?

Looking at options for drift fishing. I lose one on the port side to the bait cutting table and the aft holder on the starboard side is useless if lines are going to port because line gets hung up on motors and that is using a 6'6" trolling rod. Sometimes I have only 1 usable rod holder when drifting. Need to do something about that.

 

[onoahimahi]

I've been thinking about this too - I'll probably go in between the existing ones like this 282:

http://www.popyachts.com/Boat/52666/For ... ounds.html

 

[DennisG01]

I can't help too much on the fishing aspect of your question, but I have installed rod holders plenty of times. If you have any questions about that, I'd be glad to help.

 

[fishbust]

Dennis did you cut the holes at an angle? Doesn't seem to be much room for anything else. These rod holders (and gunnels) are a little smaller than on my last boat.
What brand/type hole saw did you use? I have some old home depot junk in the garage, will likely look to buy something better for the job this winter.

- Joe

 

[DennisG01]

You'll definitely get what you pay for when it comes to rod holders. It can be as simple as the white or black plastic jobbies, to stamped SS to solid. With and without rubber caps. No need for the caps since the underside of your gunnels, I assume, would drain directly to your deck.

Yes, you can angle them. But, as you indicated, it's dependent on the width of your gunnel. Obviously, as multiple holders are installed, you'll want the aft-most holders angled straight back and as the mounting location moves forward, angle them more and more. But, you're right, there comes a point with some boats where you can't angle them anymore. Here's what you do: Turn the holder upside down with the "top" of the holder now laying flat on the gunnel. Rotate it to see how far you can go till it would contact the inside wall of the vertical section of the gunnel. The gunnel top is thick, the vertical wall of the gunnel is pretty thin.

When you're ready to drill a pilot hole (for the hole saw to follow) use the upside down holder as a guide... holding it upside down and with the "bottom" of the holder angled further aft than the "top". Use the compound angle of the holder to follow with your drill bit.

 

[onoahimahi]

I helped a buddy install some years ago and didn't do this this way:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vvq1gYAUTJM

My buddy is a perfectionist to a flaw. What he did was first drill a hole through a thick piece of wood at a 90 degree angle. I think it was a 4x4 or 6x6. Then he sliced the block on a bandsaw at the angle that matched his rod holder. Then he used the block as a guide to drill the hole in his gunnel. He used a very good quality hole saw - I can't remember the brand but it was high end - maybe Starrett.

The closest thing I could find is here:

http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-for ... ion.html#b

 

[DennisG01]

Oh, I forgot to add: If you're following the method I mentioned, you obviously can't start the hole start the hole saw almost straight up and down and as it starts to bite in, slowly rotate the drill till you match the angle of the holder. Remember to set holder facing AFT!

In looking at Scott's idea of first drilling a "guide" block, that might be a better way for the first timer - especially if you're not too familiar with hole saws as they can be a little trickier than a regular drill bit. The only thing I would add to what Scott mentioned is you might not easily find a hole saw that would be long enough to go through a larger block of wood (at least not at a price that is conducive to a "one time use"). If not, a 2x4 should work, too. The trickiest part is getting the hole started. Once you do that, you can go back to following the angle by using the holder as a guide - that part is actually pretty easy. You might even just drill the hole through the block of wood using my method - sort of a combination of the two methods.

The other benefit to using the wood is that if you mess up the guide block, you get to start over! Too bad you weren't near me - we could get this done in about 10 minutes.

Another thought - I bet a local shop would charge no more than a half hour labor to do it for you.

Don't forget to counter sink your screw holes!!!