Adventurer 20, cuddy floor drain

[MikeinAK]

I’ve searched and found previous post from others having problems with the cuddy drain hole not going anywhere. My grandson got seasick and the cleanup was to wash it down the drain hole. When I got home, I raised the trailer nose very high, blocked everything, and removed the bilge drain in the back of the boat. I then poured 10 gallons of detergent and water into the cuddy drain, no drainage anywhere. I was able to snake a length of 9 wire through the bilge drain, up the centerline, under the fuel tank. It would go to the bulkhead at the front of the fuel tank and stop solid. Rootering the wire around, I got a trickle started so I left it drain overnight, in the morning all had stopped. By sticking a dipstick into the cuddy drain, there were still several inches of water. I duck taped a piece of tubing to my shop vac hose and pulled out about 4 more gallons. So… I want to put in an access plate so I can hose out under the bulk head that my 9 wire hits. Question is should I make the opening on the cuddy floor or on the deck just outside the cuddy door. I have a ‘93 model adventurer 20.

 

[glacierbaze]

Sounds like the cuddy drain is just a hole in the deck. I would put the access on the same side of the bulkhead that the water is trapped on.

 

[seasick]

That 'drain' drains into the mid/fwd bilge area. That bilge area does have a pipe that passes water under the gas tank into the aft bilge, so in theory the yuck should drain aft BUT...
The mid/fwd bilge is lower than the aft bilge when the boat sits level on the ground or when floating in the water.. To get the water to flow aft, you need to raise the bow and raise by a significant amount. When on a trailer the bow needs to be a foot or more higher than the transom.
If you launch the boat on a trailer and you use a fairly steep launch ramp, just backing the boat down the ramp ( but not launch it) may be enough to move the mid bilge water. If you are successful you will see the aft bilge pumping out water.
You can do this at low tides since you are not launching the boat and you don't need to remove the bilge plug but may want to do so to drain out more of the standing water.

You may be quite surprised how much water sits in that fwd bilge.

 

[trapper]

I cut a 6 inch hole (access plate) in the sole of the cabin about 12- 14 inches forward from the cabin door bulkhead. I can access the bilge drain from end to end. Initially there was a lot of fibreglass trimmings etc. cleaned it out by putting my power washer nose in the drain tube and it did the trick. Stays fairly clean, now and then just run a hose into the drain tube to make sure it is clear. Yes, being lower than the main bilge on the trailer, if you do not drain it it you can get a bit of a nostril insult.

 

[seasick]

I cut a 6 inch hole (access plate) in the sole of the cabin about 12- 14 inches forward from the cabin door bulkhead. I can access the bilge drain from end to end. Initially there was a lot of fibreglass trimmings etc. cleaned it out by putting my power washer nose in the drain tube and it did the trick. Stays fairly clean, now and then just run a hose into the drain tube to make sure it is clear. Yes, being lower than the main bilge on the trailer, if you do not drain it it you can get a bit of a nostril insult

That's a good idea.

 

[MikeinAK]

Thanks for the info, exactly what I needed. I was already convinced I needed an access hole, just didn’t know where to put it. I had that thing Jack so high I was afraid to move to the back of the boat and the best I could do was a intermittent trickle. I’m sure something went down the drain hole and is plugging the drainage tubing.
Trapper, how much depth of open space is there after you cut the hole? I was thinking of putting on a square access panel, with a hinged door and maybe putting a Tupperware type container down there for some additional knickknacks storage.

 

[seasick]

I don't think the space is very deep or wide but that depends on where the access plate is placed. What you can do is stick a stiff wire or thin rod into the existing drain and feel when it hits bottom.

 

[trapper]

Yes, as seasick said, it is a small space, hardly worth the trouble of cutting and installing a hinged access door. Maybe cut your 6 inch hole first for an access, have a look then plate it or go to a bigger cover if you feel it works for you.

 

[seasick]

I should also point out that any water that is in the anchor locker will drain into that mid bilge. That includes rain or washdown water that leaks into the locker and water that drips out of a wet anchor line. In other words, it is basically impossible to keep that bilge dry.
Although more unlikely, if there is enough water in the aft bilge, that can also flow forward into the mid bilge area. On a brighter note, the floor drains in front of the helm seats drain overboard

 

[Teaserhead]

I just bought my first GW , and it’s a 93 Adventure. In my explorations of the boat I discovered that the anchor locker basically drains through the fwd storage bin in the cuddy, straight into the bilge. Totally unacceptable to me, so I glassed in a floor in the anchor locker, and drilled a drain hole at the bottom that allows all the anchor gury to drain directly out the hull. attached A clam shell in front of the drain hole. Works great, and a easy fix.

 

[glacierbaze]

Did you try backflushing, or blowing out the PVC tube, where it empties into the aft bilge?

 

[MikeinAK]

I just bought my first GW , and it’s a 93 Adventure. In my explorations of the boat I discovered that the anchor locker basically drains through the fwd storage bin in the cuddy, straight into the bilge. Totally unacceptable to me, so I glassed in a floor in the anchor locker, and drilled a drain hole at the bottom that allows all the anchor gury to drain directly out the hull. attached A clam shell in front of the drain hole. Works great, and a easy fix.

That sounds like a great idea, maybe you could post a pic? Thanks!