Advice needed - re-installing aluminum fuel tanks in GW 252

tohotim

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Hello - I am looking for recommendations, suggestions for re-installing my original aluminum tanks into my sailfish 252. Just re-did the hatches and ready to put the tanks back in. It was 'recommended' to me that the tanks be re-installed using foam to anchor the tanks Vs. using the cedar 'wedges' that were used originally - was told that this is the way they have to be down now for CG regulations?

My concern was that foaming them in would be a problem as the aluminum tanks sweat - and need air circulation around them? - Perhaps minimal foam can be used as anchoring points, leaving the space around the tank for air to circulate?

I was very lucky, the aluminum tanks have been pressure tested, scoped and coated - so i want this to be the 'last' time we do this...

Many thanks in advance.

TT
 

Curmudgeon

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Re: Advice needed - re-installing aluminum fuel tanks in GW

Many things thought to be USCG general regs are, in fact, manufacturing regulations, and not 'use' regulations. Having had to remove Grady tanks before, I surely wouldn't want to do it after a foam installation. I'd be sure ...
 

gw204

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Re: Advice needed - re-installing aluminum fuel tanks in GW

I would be more concerned with the foam holding moisture against stringers and bulkheads. If you had a molded tank coffin, then I would foam. Stick with the wedges.
 

DennisG01

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Re: Advice needed - re-installing aluminum fuel tanks in GW

I work part time at a Sea Ray dealership and I can tell you that NONE of the new boats have their tanks foamed in. They are plastic tanks, though, so I don't know if that makes a difference, but I highly doubt it. I'm sure if it was a requirement, I would see it.

Look at it this way - the wedges worked well for this long... why change something that's successful? Maybe starboard, instead, though?
 

ROBERTH

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Re: Advice needed - re-installing aluminum fuel tanks in GW

There are some posts on this site or maybe on THT that I did when I restored my tanks and re-installed. Basically, I followed Pascoe's process. Bond PVC strips on bottom with 5200, then coat tanks with Coal Tar Epoxy. Then I re-installed the tanks. Used some new wood for wedges where needed and shimmed up properly. Good to go.

I don't see necessity to foam in. Did this on one of my older boats and after a year had to remove the tank due to a drainage issue. Was a big pain to remove the foam and tank. This Grady hull needs the drainage as well which it does with ease not having any foam in the way. Also, it allows the underhull to breath.