anchor/anger management

[dogdoc]

We have started using the Grady for other than fishing. This is usually anchoring off a sandbar or island and enjoying lunch and a swim. The learning curve for setting anchor seems to be as steep as docking but I am slowly getting the hang of setting both anchors, unless it is windy or strong current that is when the anger management comes in. My question is how do you store your bow anchor lode/chain. I do not like having the chain drape across the pulpit to the anchor locker.

 

[DennisG01]

Just to be clear, you either have a windlass or a bow roller so the anchor stays stowed in the roller? And the issue is that the chain is loose/sloppy and banging around on the pulpit?

Why are you using two anchors? Is the area REALLY tight where you can't let the boat swing?

Just a quick FYI... it's "r"ode, not "l"ode. Rode dictates both the chain and line. It's like... when you're off the boat, you can have a piece of ROPE in your hand. But as soon as you step on the boat, it's now called a LINE... but wait! If you now attach that line to an anchor, it's now called RODE. We must all be crazy!

 

[seasick]

If your chain is dragging on the pulpit, what is holding the anchor up when not in use. If you tie off the anchor, you can probably bungie the chain to take up slack. Perhaps you need a stainless rub plate to protect the surface.
For better feedback, post a picture of your setup.

 

[glacierbaze]

Sounds like you are not a bottom fisherman, and carry your anchor in the locker, not on the pulpit. That's okay, until you lose power in tight quarters, but a lot more work if you start anchoring regularly, at which point you will love a windlass.
Pics of pulpit would help. How do you carry/store your stern anchor?

Doc, when hanging on the sandbar, I think you could get away with a small anchor, and no chain. Everything could fit in a five gallon bucket, or a canvas bag, and your regular anchor stays in the locker. In places without a lot of current, I have seen people using those plastic screw in umbrella spikes, instead of a beach anchor.

Dennis, most people who hang out on sandbars put the anchor on shore, and a stern anchor to keep the current from beaching the boat. They only 'swing' on shore.

 

[DennisG01]

Dennis, most people who hang out on sandbars put the anchor on shore, and a stern anchor to keep the current from beaching the boat. They only 'swing' on shore.

Sure, I'm familiar with stern anchoring - I just wasn't completely sure that's what Doc meant - or maybe he meant something else. Hence the quesiton about clarification as sometimes in tight quarters people will use two off the bow.

I'm not touching your last statement... other than to say most things are better on a boat than they are on land

 

[chrisk]

We have started using the Grady for other than fishing. This is usually anchoring off a sandbar or island and enjoying lunch and a swim. The learning curve for setting anchor seems to be as steep as docking but I am slowly getting the hang of setting both anchors, unless it is windy or strong current that is when the anger management comes in. My question is how do you store your bow anchor lode/chain. I do not like having the chain drape across the pulpit to the anchor locker.

I mounted a piece of Starboard on the pulpit to "absorb" the chain rubbing on it. Boat Outfitters Seafoam (color) matches pretty well. Did this about three years ago and it has held up very well.

 

[SmokyMtnGrady]

Do you have a windlass ? if no, what kind of anchor or style do you use? the rode or chain section of the rode should be at about half your boat length or more. Chain helps keep the anchor down and the force parallel to the bottom to help set the anchor. I bought an aluminum fortress anchor last season. and they claim worlds best anchor on the box. I would attest to part of their claim. It's the best anchor I have ever owned and love it . It's light and sets fast and holds strong.

I have a stern anchor for the sand bar .I always set it so the. anchor is upstream of my boat as a lot of sandbars have a tidal current .

Like others have said if you can add specifics and detail to your issue I think other could help you solve it .

 

[Fishtales]

Good tips here for the main anchor. For the second aft anchor, I use (2) 30 pack Coors zip coolers. Anchor and chain in one and the line (connected to the chain), in the other. Keeps the anchor quiet for vbirth hatch storage.

 

[Seafarer_Bob]

I switched to a Mantis 2 for my pulpit / windlass anchor which sticks quickly and holds great in sand. My anchor hatch also has chocks under the lid which holds a decent size Danforth which is my beach anchor which I rig breakaway when I'm fishing on a craggy bottom.
When I beach / stern anchor I first drop the Mantus about 120' from the beach by putting the windlass in free fall, reverse in a close as I can with the motor trimmed up, and when it gets shallow I hit the windlass button down to stop the boat, hop off the swim platform with the Danforth on a 100' line that's cleated stern, and set it on the beach. If you use enough line fore and aft you'll be able to adjust as the tide comes in and out.

As far as not wanting the chain across your pulpit there's not much you can do but if you use a snubber it'll help keep the chain from slapping around. I'm not crazy about the pulpit configuration on my 228 but it's not worth messing with.

 

[Fishtales]

I've not seen it, but can you cover chain?

 

[DennisG01]

I've not seen it, but can you cover chain?

Waiting to hear clarification from Doc as to what he's really wondering about, but... I used to take a length of 3/4" black, heater hose and slit it lengthwise. It snaps right over the chain nicely. When you're using the windlass, simply snap the hose over your bowrail.

When I added a windlass to this boat, I also cut a piece of 1/4" starboard to help with chafing from rode slapping when going out.

 

[dogdoc]

no windlass, roller that does not roll. will post pic soon away from boat

 

[Fishtales]

Nice looking bow.. I like the cover solution.

 

[DennisG01]

Thanks, Fish. That boat originally only had a hawse pipe. When I added the windlass, the "hole" for the windlass would be slightly off center - so it meant filling the hole and then redrilling. Problem is, you would end up seeing some of the epoxy filler. So I either had to spend quite a few hours, at minimum (ontop of the multitude aready spent running wires, etc), replicating the non-skid, or spend about $200 on Plasdek to cover it up in 20 minutes. Well, you can see what I chose! I could have just made an adapter/cover plate out of starboard... but where would the fun be in doing that?

 

[fastexas57]

For sandbar anchoring (assuming 3'-4' deep, and not a strong current), I've had exceptional luck with an 8' Stick it brand anchor pin. The bracket mounts on your outboard and it holds extremely well in sandy bottoms.
So easy to deploy & retrieve, and dispenses with anchor hassles & mess. Kind of like a poor man's Power Pole. Currently $210 for the 8' stick and bracket.

 

[SeanC]

Google “chain sock”.