Anchor rode snapped

[Rustygaff]

Today I went out with the wife to throw out the hook, picnic, and swim. We went over to East Harbor on Fishers Island, NY. We did the picnic thing and then late in the afternoon decided to head back to RI and dug a few clams since it was low tide. Went to our clam spot and when I went to deploy the anchor, my wife pointed out to me that the rode was beginning to fray in a short section of the line. I dropped the anchor and she ran the line through the skene chock and tied it off to a cleat. I then gently backed the boat to set the anchor and the rode snapped.
Fortunately, we were in 4 to 6 feet of water and I had a backup Fortress anchor on board. We anchored and I was able to locate and recover the Lewmar Delta we lost.
From looking at the line and where it broke it appears the skene chock is the culprit. When I installed the windlass a couple oif months ago, I pretty much copied the GW factory setup. Attached are a few pics. The first pic is a factory image of a 275 windlass setup. My rode is Lewmar 1/2" 8-plait which has only been in the water 3 or 4 times in the past 2 weeks. I guess I can get through this problem by simply re-splicing the rope to the chain (or finding someone who knows how to do it) but I need to figure out how to prevent future rode failures.

 

[ElyseM]

somewhat hard to tell, but looks like your chock is reverse to what the factory install looks like (i think they are left/right sets?). could be the leading edge sharp turn didn't help. at a minimum, you might want to get a velcro-seal chafe guard and use it in the future. good luck, ron

 

[Rustygaff]

somewhat hard to tell, but looks like your chock is reverse to what the factory install looks like (i think they are left/right sets?). could be the leading edge sharp turn didn't help. at a minimum, you might want to get a velcro-seal chafe guard and use it in the future. good luck, ron

Your point makes sense. Maybe I have the chock reversed and the leading edge chafed and cut the line.

 

[everwhom]

I think you may also have the wrong kind of chock -- take a look at these links:

https://www.suncorstainless.com/skene-chocks
https://www.suncorstainless.com/bow-chocks

Yours looks more like a "bow chock" which I'm guessing is for application where the rode doesn't really change direction around the chock. The Skene chock seems to be much more rounded around the corners, though adding some chafe protection is probably a good idea, esp when anchoring for a long time... The angle that your rode has to go through to get to the bow cleat does seem pretty high.

I installed the suncor skene chocks on my 2003 330 which, for some reason, did not have them from the factory (later years added these). They are very high quality!

The other option would be to add a new cleat approximately where your chock is now?

 

[ElyseM]

or a small samson post https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-mar ... VIQAvD_BwE

whatever you do, make sure the rode does not come in contact with the sides of the anchor roller bracket. that will also chafe it up. good luck, ron

and i think WM does have a service to splice anchor rode.

 

[Rustygaff]

Thanks for the quick replies. I checked with WM their rigging shop does do splicing work. I just need to get the line to my local store and they will ship it up to Newport for the work. I now see that I have the wrong chock installed which obviously cut the line when I backed the boat. The Suncor skene chock mentioned above appears to have the same screw configuration as the one I have on the boat now so the swap should be easy.

 

[everwhom]

Or try it yourself?

https://www.neropes.com/services/splici ... -to-chain/

I've done a bunch of 3-strand splicing which is pretty easy... 8-plait does look a bit more complicated, but still doable!

 

[Rustygaff]

Or try it yourself?

https://www.neropes.com/services/splici ... -to-chain/

I've done a bunch of 3-strand splicing which is pretty easy... 8-plait does look a bit more complicated, but still doable!

Actually, I just ordered a set of fids and will give it a shot. Worst that can happen is the rode ends up at WM.

 

[ocnslr]

It looks as though the line, after making that sharp bend and leading to the roller, could be hitting the aft, right edge of the roller assembly. That would certainly chaff a line under tension in short order.

I agree that the sharp turn going through that chock could be a problem, but a good chaff guard on the line will protect it.

 

[Halfhitch]

Rustygaff, I am planning to install a bow roller on my Grady and really like the looks of the one you have. It's the nicest one I've seen. Do you know the brand and model so I could copy your setup?

 

[Rustygaff]

Rustygaff, I am planning to install a bow roller on my Grady and really like the looks of the one you have. It's the nicest one I've seen. Do you know the brand and model so I could copy your setup?

The roller is a Lewmar DTX cantilever with a 14# Lewmar DTX stainless anchor.

 

[Halfhitch]

Thanks.

 

[ROBERTH]

Interesting how easy the 8 plait will abrade. I had a smart guy this past week determine that to help him anchor up and get to the beach, he through out the forward anchor and let his boat drift onto my anchor line so his boat could hold position while he pulled his beach anchor out and untangle the mess. All the time I am yelling at him to get off my anchor line as it is a abrading the line and damaging my rode. He just yelled back and told me to calm down....lol. Really? I wonder what he would have done if I layed up on his anchor line while my trim tabs, lower unit and prop was bouncing up and down on his line.

I haven't had a chance yet to check the rode and see if any damage, but need to pull it out and inspect it. I dread having to cut off some and do the splice with 8 plait!

 

[glacierbaze]

Or try it yourself?

https://www.neropes.com/services/splici ... -to-chain/

I've done a bunch of 3-strand splicing which is pretty easy... 8-plait does look a bit more complicated, but still doable!

Someone let us know how your 8 plait splice works out, following these 6 pair/12 plait directions.

 

[ocnslr]

A line under tension is much more susceptible to chaff than a slack line.

I don't believe 8-plait is any more or less susceptible than 3-strand, but perhaps a bit more than double braid.

The biggest issue is whether the line has a "soft" finish with yarn that can easily be caught on edges, or a 'harder', firmer finish. Lines meant for windlass use should be the harder, firmer line. Unfortunately, these are more costly than the softer finish imported lines.