You are going to fret away the rode by the gypsy if you leave the weight of the boat against it. Look at the gypsy, it has teeth. Even if the water is calm where you anchor, another boat's wake places a huge force against the hull. Sure you can replace the rode as needed.
If you use the windlass to pull the boat forward against the anchor, or break free an anchor, the breaker will trip if you are lucky, and over time can be a short time, eventually the motor will self destruct. Sure you can buy a new motor.
If you find the breaker popping, you are doing it wrong. Doesn't mean you are doing it right if the breaker doesn't pop.
When you want to break free the anchor, power towards the anchor at a slight angle to the side and up current, use the windlass to pull in slack line only, when you get just about over anchor and no more slack, you continue moving the boat forward until the anchor breaks free, do this at the same angle so the rode is seen just off to the side of the boat by you, not under it for obvious reasons, then engines to neutral and use the windlass again to lift the weight of the rode and anchor all the way up.
Practice , practice , practice. I suggest you practice also going to the bow in a manner you don't fall off the boat, you need to learn how to do this, even in severe weather conditions, for other reasons. The worse it is, the lower you bend while moving (lower your center of gravity) to move, it is very easy to loose balance up there, so stay down low. And hold on to something like the hardtop frame that is above you, while moving, always. Kneel down at bow. Don't even think about standing up at the bow since you have nothing above you to hold on to.
Don't perceive going to the bow as a half assed way to do it, for instance, you need to secure the anchor with a secondary means while under way, in case it cuts loose, Grady provides a device to do it. So it means you need to disconnect it when ready to anchor.
Like docking a boat, you practice anchoring.
Good luck, happy anchoring!
