Has anyone removed a Lewmar V700 windlass and replaced with a Profish freefall 700 ?? Will it bolt up to same mounting holes ? Can the original wiring be used ?
Anchor Windlass
- Thread starter ttles714
- Start date
My initial feeling is that at a minimum, the wiring may be undersized. The V700 had a 35 amp breaker and the Freefall 700 calls for a 50 amp breaker. I am not sure but the mounting footprint looks different also.I suggest you contact the maunufacturer
three4one
Well-Known Member
I did exactly what you are asking about. As stated above, the breaker must be upgraded.
For mounting I started with the non windlass Grady hatch configuration. Then I mounted the Profish 700 on the flat hatch.
I wanted a straight line from the windlass to anchor resulting in the windlass slightly covering the opening hatch. That was easily reminded with a little sanding of the lid (the overlap is very minor).
I used the existing electrical wiring.
The boat is a Marlin 300.
For mounting I started with the non windlass Grady hatch configuration. Then I mounted the Profish 700 on the flat hatch.
I wanted a straight line from the windlass to anchor resulting in the windlass slightly covering the opening hatch. That was easily reminded with a little sanding of the lid (the overlap is very minor).
I used the existing electrical wiring.
The boat is a Marlin 300.
three4one said:
Sounds like a good job!
I wouldn't recommend using the same wire without gathering a few facts and then sizing the cable. In a case like yours and the poster, instead of sizing the gauge, using the current draw, the existing cable size and the round trip cable run length, you would like to see a 10% or less voltage drop. If the drop is excessive, the windlass motor may be subject to higher temperatures than desired.
three4one
Well-Known Member
Agreed...I should have measured the voltage at the windlass when in operation under load to verify the correct wire diameter.