catch22 said:
Terminal strip is definitely the way to go. I would go with a Blue Seas Systems block since it will probably last longer being exposed to damp, salty air.
Anybody gotten the new Raymarine S1000 Auto pilot?
- Thread starter Bama96
- Start date
Terminal strip is definitely the way to go. I would go with a Blue Seas Systems block since it will probably last longer being exposed to damp, salty air.
catch22 said:
Thanks guys! This really helps. I did a search on Garmin but did it for my specific unit and could not find a FAQ about NMEA on the 498. Guess I should have dome just a generic FAQ. Thanks Catch22. I will definitely get one of those connecting strips. That will make it easier to remove and add stuff as well. I really want one of those Garmin 740 touch screens when they are out in April.
Progress
Made some progress today. My buddy got the VHF mounted, Shakespeare antenna, and Furuno fcv 620 installed. Got the access plate up and trying to find the right spot for the in hull transducer. Looks tight in there. Anybody have a thought of where the best place to mount it would be? Thanks.
Made some progress today. My buddy got the VHF mounted, Shakespeare antenna, and Furuno fcv 620 installed. Got the access plate up and trying to find the right spot for the in hull transducer. Looks tight in there. Anybody have a thought of where the best place to mount it would be? Thanks.
Re: Progress
The in hull transducer needs to be facing, (shooting) straight down, so it needs to be on center and on a flat area. Is there enough room to mount it right in front of the float switch? If not, (like you said, it looks tight) you might have to move your bilge pump and float switch back a little? That looks like the best location to me.
Another alternative, (unfortunately in means more $) would be to replace your bilge pump with a Rule automatic pump, (see links below) and do away with the existing float switch. The oval models, (RULE-MATE 1500 and 2000) have a self contained float switch. They have a larger foot print than the round pumps, but I think it would still free up enough room for the transducer, especially if you mount it as far back as possible, (you might even be able to mount it side-ways).
1500 gph- http://www.rule-industries.com/products ... /index.htm
2000 gph- http://www.rule-industries.com/products ... /index.htm
The automatic models are near the bottom of the page.
They have round automatic models too, (51S and 53S) but I don't like them. They turn on automatically every couple of minutes and run for a few seconds, (cycle). If they sense water, (load) they'll continue to run until there's no load. So when the boats not in use, (like on a trailer) you need to have a way to shut off power to them, or they'll continue to cycle. Over a long period of time, I can't imagine it not draining a battery.
Bama96 said:Got the access plate up and trying to find the right spot for the in hull transducer. Looks tight in there. Anybody have a thought of where the best place to mount it would be?
The in hull transducer needs to be facing, (shooting) straight down, so it needs to be on center and on a flat area. Is there enough room to mount it right in front of the float switch? If not, (like you said, it looks tight) you might have to move your bilge pump and float switch back a little? That looks like the best location to me.
Another alternative, (unfortunately in means more $) would be to replace your bilge pump with a Rule automatic pump, (see links below) and do away with the existing float switch. The oval models, (RULE-MATE 1500 and 2000) have a self contained float switch. They have a larger foot print than the round pumps, but I think it would still free up enough room for the transducer, especially if you mount it as far back as possible, (you might even be able to mount it side-ways).
1500 gph- http://www.rule-industries.com/products ... /index.htm
2000 gph- http://www.rule-industries.com/products ... /index.htm
The automatic models are near the bottom of the page.
They have round automatic models too, (51S and 53S) but I don't like them. They turn on automatically every couple of minutes and run for a few seconds, (cycle). If they sense water, (load) they'll continue to run until there's no load. So when the boats not in use, (like on a trailer) you need to have a way to shut off power to them, or they'll continue to cycle. Over a long period of time, I can't imagine it not draining a battery.
Thanks guys great info and suggestions. It's coming together slowly. Waiting on the auto pilot and the connecting block that was recommended above. I am going to try and mount that ducer in front of the blue float switch. It will get me above the thru hulls and allow it to be in "clean" water while running. I hope it works. I am pretty certain this part of the hull is always in the water while running and would be the lowest point in the hull. This is the ducer I am using.
http://www.boemarine.com/Products/520-IHD/Default.aspx
http://www.boemarine.com/Products/520-IHD/Default.aspx
Bama... I didn't realize you were going with an adjustable deadrise transducer. I thought it was a flat, puck type.
Unless I'm misunderstanding the directions, I don't think that model would work out sitting in the middle, on a flat, even keel. I don't think you can adjust it all the way down to 0 degrees. If that's the case, looking at your picture, I would put it in between the float switch and the water pick up on the right hand side, but forward as much as possible to avoid any "noise" from the water pick up, (like you said).
If I'm wrong and you can set it for 0... great.
Here's Furuno installation instructions - http://www.furunousa.com/ProductDocumen ... lation.pdf
I know you have them, just figured I'd post them here as a refernce.
Unless I'm misunderstanding the directions, I don't think that model would work out sitting in the middle, on a flat, even keel. I don't think you can adjust it all the way down to 0 degrees. If that's the case, looking at your picture, I would put it in between the float switch and the water pick up on the right hand side, but forward as much as possible to avoid any "noise" from the water pick up, (like you said).
If I'm wrong and you can set it for 0... great.
Here's Furuno installation instructions - http://www.furunousa.com/ProductDocumen ... lation.pdf
I know you have them, just figured I'd post them here as a refernce.
I will have the ability to mark waypoints from the Furuno unit. Also the VHF if it has DSC you can hook it up through NMEA connections. I am new at all this so this is what I am told and what I have read. Here is what ICOm says from their site. Also has something to do with the distress signal and allowing it to transmit your position. I will be reading the manuals soon.
Position Request and Position Report with External GPS Receiver
With an external GPS receiver, the position request and position report functions allow you to exchange ships position. The received position information can be plotted on a third party GPS or other navigation equipment which accepts NMEA data format. The polling (request/reply) function checks whether a specific ship is in the communication range.
Position Request and Position Report with External GPS Receiver
With an external GPS receiver, the position request and position report functions allow you to exchange ships position. The received position information can be plotted on a third party GPS or other navigation equipment which accepts NMEA data format. The polling (request/reply) function checks whether a specific ship is in the communication range.
raymarine S1000
Will the s1000 work with an I/O w/o hydralic steering checked the raymarine web site and could not determine if I could use it
Will the s1000 work with an I/O w/o hydralic steering checked the raymarine web site and could not determine if I could use it
Autopilot
The S1000 you have to have Hydraulic steering. It has a pump that attaches to the back of your steering helm.
The S1000 you have to have Hydraulic steering. It has a pump that attaches to the back of your steering helm.
Re: raymarine S1000
Like Bama said, the S1000 is for hydraulic steering. It will not work with mechanically steered boats. You need a "rotary" auto pilot.
Raymarine used to have a rotary ap, it was called the "Sport Pilot". It was pretty cheap, ($) too. But, to be honest, I don't know how well it performed. They must have had issues with it, because they no longer make it. You might find one on E-bay?
Not sure if anyone else makes an ap for mechanical, (cable steering) but Simrad has 2 models... the AP12 and AP14. They're basically the same, except the AP-14 has a fancier control. I've heard nothing but good about Simrad's auto pilots.
Simrad - http://www.simrad-yachting.com/Products ... AP12-AP14/
Star marine has the AP12 for around $1200 and the AP14 for around $1500 - http://www.starmarinedepot.com/SIMRAD+A ... Drive.html
MasterBaiter said:
Like Bama said, the S1000 is for hydraulic steering. It will not work with mechanically steered boats. You need a "rotary" auto pilot.
Raymarine used to have a rotary ap, it was called the "Sport Pilot". It was pretty cheap, ($) too. But, to be honest, I don't know how well it performed. They must have had issues with it, because they no longer make it. You might find one on E-bay?
Not sure if anyone else makes an ap for mechanical, (cable steering) but Simrad has 2 models... the AP12 and AP14. They're basically the same, except the AP-14 has a fancier control. I've heard nothing but good about Simrad's auto pilots.
Simrad - http://www.simrad-yachting.com/Products ... AP12-AP14/
Star marine has the AP12 for around $1200 and the AP14 for around $1500 - http://www.starmarinedepot.com/SIMRAD+A ... Drive.html
Ok got started on the Autopilot. What the heck us up with that big azz red clown button they call a power switch? No way I am using that. Can you use one of the already installed extra Acc switches instead?
Bama96 said:
Yes.
I commented about the power button, back on page 1;
"If you do any web searching about the s1000, your sure to find people complaining about it, and rightly so... it's big and it's ugly! It's been referred to as the "ronald mcdonald" switch, lol. Just use any on-board switch that's rated for about 10 amps, or install a separate one that's easy to get at in case you need to do a quick, emergency shut-down".
It's a shame because... the "push in" function on their "ronald mcdonald" switch is a nice feature. If you ever had to face a "crazy Ivan"... you know what I mean. :shock:
Bad signal, or low batteries in the remote will cause the ap to malfunction, but you'll usually get a loud alarm when that happens. Hopefully, that will give you enough time to hit the "stand by" button on the remote. But... in any event, you want to be able to kill power as quicky as possible, just in case.
If possible, try to use a switch that's easy and quick to get at. Maybe on the end of your switch panel? Or, consider installing a different type of after market switch... one that stands out.
Sent you a pm too.
CANNEt was the old Garmin networking system. Not sure why you would use CANNET instead of NMEA 0183 to communicate.Bama96 said:
Strikezone said:
Not going to. I was not sure what to do with them. Wanted to be sure I was not supposed to hook them up to something as well. I'll Just tape them up and zip tie them out of the way.
Bama 96
Did you get the autopilot operating yet. I was wondering how loud the pump is? I just installed an S1000 on my Gulfstream and the pump is very loud.
Jim
Did you get the autopilot operating yet. I was wondering how loud the pump is? I just installed an S1000 on my Gulfstream and the pump is very loud.
Jim
I heard from a Contender dealer that the Ray unit is too slow for a fast boat. Fast is relative. They only use Simrad.
I have neither just adding info.
I have neither just adding info.