Anyone have pictures of this?...

[mleads310]

This is a picture of the rear access panel of a marlin. Wanted to know if anyone has any more detailed and or interior pictures of this....maybe with it open etc. I'm going to have something similar fabricated during the off season on my sailfish and wanted to see how the inside "lip" is to keep the water out.

 

[DennisG01]

Not a direct answer, but... for what you're doing, can you simply use a large, rectangular deck plate? Check out TH Marine's website for some examples. Sure would be a lot simpler and less expensive.

 

[SkunkBoat]

Not a direct answer, but... for what you're doing, can you simply use a large, rectangular deck plate? Check out TH Marine's website for some examples. Sure would be a lot simpler and less expensive.

Yep

 

[mleads310]

Thanks for the quick response. I did see 1 photo on here where someone added a large deck plate to the floor for access to the generator. Don't get me wrong if I could find a hatch big enough, I think I could, it would suffice. Let me just give a better picture of what I'm looking to do. My sailfish has the transom seat, same as picture attached, which flips up. So my goal and hopefully the outcome is to do the following:. Instead of having an access plate in the area, I would have a hatch(exactly where the one in the picture is) that is hinged at the floor to fold down and back (laying on top of the floor deck when open so to speak). Then at the same time I would be able to open/lift my transom seat upwards. This would give me full open access to my bilge area When and if I need to do work to it. Also in case of an emergency. The few times I've had to open valves half my body is hanging upside down in there, can't imagine if there was an emergency.

 

[DennisG01]

I did something similar when I rebuilt my Offshore. But I made that "hatch" open upwards (hinge on top) with a couple fold down legs on the underside (inside) so the hatch then became a table. Nothing real fancy, but useful.

Did you happen to look at TH Marine's website? I know they make some pretty big ones - and you wouldn't need anything super strong since you won't be standing on it. I think they make some styles that quickly remove, completely (no hinge) - might give you a little easier access since you wouldn't need to kneel or lay down on the hatch.

 

[mleads310]

I looked on TH Marines website and they do have a good selection of hatches but not for my application. I have attached a rough drawing, very rough I'm no artist especially on my phone app, of what I would like the opening to look like. As you can see there would be no frame/border where the hatch and the seat would meet. I would basically be able to stand in my bilge without having any obstruction. Again don't laugh at the drawing. But I think you'll get a much clearer understanding of what I'm going for. I've thought about this for quite some time and I know I'm going to end up having to have it at fabricated. I guess the biggest problem I have, without trying to find a Marlin locally to inspect with that access hatch is to try to get some pictures, is how the bottom keeps the water out from running back on the deck.

 

[DennisG01]

The bottom would be easy enough by making a curb on the inside of the door frame. Essentially, the door would close flush into the vertical "wall", but there would be a jamb inside the wall. Think of how one of your home's doors closes against a jamb. You could do the same thing at the bottom. 2" high would probably be sufficient. A rubber/foam gasket would help, too. It'd certainly stop rainwater - and probably 99% of any 'huge' rush of water.

Nah, your picture is perfect. And now I see what you're getting at. BUT... looking at the picture of that Marlin, it does not appear that opens "completely" like you want to do. But you could still do what you want and I don't think you'd compromise and rigidity of that area. However, if it was me, I would leave a good 2" of that vertical wall - in other words, start the "hole in the wall" about 2" above the floor. Doing that, you'd probably only need a 1" jamb. I'd do the jamb around the bottom edge of the hole, and also the two sides. That way when the door is closed, it nice and solid and won't accidentally pop inwards if you happen to bump against it. The top edge of the door and the "lip" of the existing hatch can be relieved to fit into each other (and keep rain out).

 

[mleads310]

Dennis that is awesome information. A 2" lip at the bottom and a door jamb to have it sit flush while being secure. 2" seems high enough to prevent water. Come to think of it, while reading your response, that 2" lip would also allow enough height for the hinges at the bottom....heck with 2" I could probably fit latches if I wanted etc. This is why it's great to bounce ideas around and to get other people's thoughts on these things. I really appreciate all the input and help. Come October I'll be bringing the boat in to the shop and I'll take step by step pictures of the work as it's done. Hopefully it'll turn out to be a successful write up.

 

[DennisG01]

You're welcome! I'm looking forward to seeing the modification steps!

 

[g0tagrip]

I have a 2007 Marlin that I had the deck plate added because that hatch you circled does not give good access to the bilge area especially the fuel water separators. send me a PM and I can send you the photos of what I did.
g0tagrip33@gmail.com

 

[g0tagrip]

Tortugabob send me your email address.