Are stainless steel brakes worth the extra $?

[patrick16]

I'm shopping for a trailer and one of the guys selling them told me that stainless steel calipers are not worth the extra money because the part that fails is the boot/seal, not the stainless part.

It seems to make sense, but I do not have the experience to know.

BTW, thank you to all the guys who respond to questions from less experienced boaters like myself. I really appreciate you taking the time to share your knowledge.

 

[Ky Grady]

If you're dunking in saltwater, yes, get the SS brakes. Make sure they are Kodiak's or equal to them. Any hardware on a saltwater trailer that can be changed to SS, should be changed out. Freshwater flush your trailer after use. I'd even change out for a freshwater trailer, just less to deal with. Boots and seals will fail on any trailer irregardless if SS or not.

 

[blindmullet]

If it's a saltwater rig it's the only way to go. You can get by with the coated discs/pads. With proper maintenance you should get 5+ years out of the rotors.

 

[dbiscayne]

just replaced the brakes on both axles of my trailer - the rotors were in very bad shape, the brake pads with kodiak 'coated' steel backing plates were really bad to the point as the rust grows it would push the pads into the rotors causing the brakes to drag after the trailer had been sitting. But the calipers and caliper brackets weren't that bad at all, probably could have gone without replacing them.
I got a complete kit with coated rotors (not ss), kodiak koda guard calipers (not ss), and brake pads WITH stainless steel backing plates. The kit also came with new caliper brackets. I think at the very least you should spend a little extra $$ and get the ss brake pads as you can't easily rinse these or inspect. The stainless rotors and calipers get really expensive to do all 4 wheels. Also if the 4 caliper mounting bolts aren't stainless definitely replace these as well and plan on grinding the old stuff off.
This time around I've been bringing some fresh water with me to the ramp to give the rotors a quick rinse after launching, hopefully they'll last longer than a few years.

 

[Fishtales]

Can't agree more with SS and water (fresh or salt).

 

[Holokai]

One thing that seems to help longevity is to keep a pump sprayer of saltaway solution in the tow vehicle and spray the brakes (and trailer) after launching. This helps when the wash rack is a good distance from the parking or pier/ramps as it saves time driving/walking and possibly waiting in line to wash off the trailer.

Ditto to what others have said. Full SS is the way to go.

 

[blindmullet]

Take a look at Deemaxx. It's the same as Kodiac but I believe the warranty is better.

 

[leeccoll]

just replaced the brakes on both axles of my trailer - the rotors were in very bad shape, the brake pads with kodiak 'coated' steel backing plates were really bad to the point as the rust grows it would push the pads into the rotors causing the brakes to drag after the trailer had been sitting. But the calipers and caliper brackets weren't that bad at all, probably could have gone without replacing them.
I got a complete kit with coated rotors (not ss), kodiak koda guard calipers (not ss), and brake pads WITH stainless steel backing plates. The kit also came with new caliper brackets. I think at the very least you should spend a little extra $$ and get the ss brake pads as you can't easily rinse these or inspect. The stainless rotors and calipers get really expensive to do all 4 wheels. Also if the 4 caliper mounting bolts aren't stainless definitely replace these as well and plan on grinding the old stuff off.
This time around I've been bringing some fresh water with me to the ramp to give the rotors a quick rinse after launching, hopefully they'll last longer than a few years.

That is a great idea about bringing the water to the ramp.

 

[wrxhoon]

Stainless steel all the way , Kodiak or Deemax are fine.
I have them on my current trailer had them on my previous trailer and never any problems . I use S/S calipers, S/S rotors , S/S brackets and S/S backing plated pads . three times the price but cheaper in the long run especially if you pay to have them installed .
The seals on the calipers don't fail on S/S because they are always moving on clean surface , same with pads on S/S rotors .
While you are at it replace your surge coupling and use EOH actuator then you always have decent brakes and if you happen to get trailer sway easy to stop it by gently pulling the trailer brakes
I use S/S sleeves on my axle stubs so the seals run on perfect surface , never gat any water in the hubs, same bearings for 9 years ( not Chinese) American or Japanese will do fine .

 

[trapper]

Been doing the garden pump- up spray bottle for years with diluted Salt Away after launching. With the boat off the trailer it is easy access to brakes and springs. Do not have stainless, but once the coated ones quit working will go to stainless. Just not sure how much longer they last than the coated with washing maintenance.

 

[wrxhoon]

I haven't had any fail yet, of course depending on trailer use you need to change pads and make sure you use pads with S/S backing plates. I have to say that the S/S rotors wear out much quicker than steel but they will stop better as well.
I keep my boat on the trailer always , never leave in the water so I launch every time . I know some of you guys launch once per season that maybe ok to spend the time and rinse the brakes at the launching ramp but you need to do it twice.