Are toe rails movable in a 228?

[luckydude]

I was using those toe rails and thinking about what adding some seadek would do to those, I was leaning towards thicker because I want more padding for my crappy feet. But more padding means less space for toes under that rail.

So anyone know if they are movable?

 

[glacierbaze]

On my 2000, there are just screws, one in the back, two in the middle, and three in the front. But, the screws are close to the bottom of the rail, and the top of the three little “boxes“ that they are screwed into, so moving them up gives you less contact surface.
What I would do is use a router, or a table saw, to take a half inch off the bottom of the toe rail, between the mounting boxes, and keep all of the existing mounting points intact.

 

[HTHM]

On my 2000, there are just screws, one in the back, two in the middle, and three in the front. But, the screws are close to the bottom of the rail, and the top of the three little “boxes“ that they are screwed into, so moving them up gives you less contact surface.
What I would do is use a router, or a table saw, to take a half inch off the bottom of the toe rail, between the mounting boxes, and keep all of the existing mounting points intact.

I think he wants to raise the toe rail the same distance as the added flooring, in that case same idea, but make some spacers to fit under the toe-rail supports.

 

[seasick]

I was using those toe rails and thinking about what adding some seadek would do to those, I was leaning towards thicker because I want more padding for my crappy feet. But more padding means less space for toes under that rail.

So anyone know if they are movable?

Are you thinking about seadeck on the deck or wrapping seadeck around the toe rails? If the first case, seadeck applied to deck, if you want to make more space, you might want to trim the lower edge as mentioned but not the sections where the screws are. I wouldn't remove more than 1/4 inch, maybe a tad more. The edges if like mine are routed to give a roundover with a edge profile. Anyone with woodwroking experience would understand what I am talking about, a roundover bottom bearing pattern bit. You will also need to make a template and temporarily screw it to the back of the rails for the pattern bit to follow.To do the job correctly, the rail will have to be removed. Be aware that the older the rail, the more likely it will be to have stress cracks near the mounting screws from expansion and contraction. Those cracks will often result is pieces breaking off.
I have found the following tips to be helpful when reinstalling the toe rail:
If you have three sets of screws, two ends and one middle, leave the middle screw holes as is but redrill the end holes one size bit wider. I also try to make the hole a bit elongated. That allows the rail to expand and contract without undue pressure on the screws. Do not overtighten the end screws or the middle screws for that mater.
Secondly, over time the rail may expand a bit and rub up against the walls of the deck mold putting extra pressure on the rail. f that happens, the rail will start to look wavy or bowed. That will be more obvious in the hot weather than the colder. If the rail does not have end clearance, the tight ends should be filed or trimmed to add clearance.

 

[luckydude]

Are you thinking about seadeck on the deck or wrapping seadeck around the toe rails? If the first case, seadeck applied to deck, if you want to make more space, you might want to trim the lower edge as mentioned but not the sections where the screws are. I wouldn't remove more than 1/4 inch, maybe a tad more. The edges if like mine are routed to give a roundover with a edge profile. Anyone with woodwroking experience would understand what I am talking about, a roundover bottom bearing pattern bit. You will also need to make a template and temporarily screw it to the back of the rails for the pattern bit to follow.To do the job correctly, the rail will have to be removed. Be aware that the older the rail, the more likely it will be to have stress cracks near the mounting screws from expansion and contraction. Those cracks will often result is pieces breaking off.
I have found the following tips to be helpful when reinstalling the toe rail:
If you have three sets of screws, two ends and one middle, leave the middle screw holes as is but redrill the end holes one size bit wider. I also try to make the hole a bit elongated. That allows the rail to expand and contract without undue pressure on the screws. Do not overtighten the end screws or the middle screws for that mater.
Secondly, over time the rail may expand a bit and rub up against the walls of the deck mold putting extra pressure on the rail. f that happens, the rail will start to look wavy or bowed. That will be more obvious in the hot weather than the colder. If the rail does not have end clearance, the tight ends should be filed or trimmed to add clearance.

Thanks, I actually followed all of that, I'm a long time wood worker (hobbiest but skilled, Unisaw, Minimax, Delta DJ-20, Powermatic lathe, the big one, etc.)

I'll go look at mine and see if I can raise them rather than remove material.

On expansion, I believe my 2020 has no wood, it's all fiberglass. Does fiberglass expand/contract like wood does?

 

[seasick]

The toe rails I was referring to are made form high density polyethylene I think. Fiberglass has a pretty low coefficient of expansion but things like HDPE and Starboard have a higher coefficient.
your rails are plastic, right?

 

[luckydude]

The toe rails I was referring to are made form high density polyethylene I think. Fiberglass has a pretty low coefficient of expansion but things like HDPE and Starboard have a higher coefficient.
ou rails are plastic, right?

I'll go look but I was told there was no wood anywhere in that 2020 228.

My climate probably helps a little but maybe not enough. Ranges from about 35 to 110, is that enough that I need to worry?

 

[Fishtales]

Just screwed in as stated. You may be able to cut them down in addition to / instead of moving. Either way, you'll prob want to use the same mounting holes. Seal well or in 10 years you'll be replacing the core....