auto pilot selection

[hooked on Grady]

I have viewed Hookup 1's thread and would like to possibly take advantage of w.m.'s points offer purchasing an auto pilots system. Which one do I need for my boat though is my question. do I need the one with the smart pump or less expensive model without. I have hydraulic steering, does the standard unit hook into my pump?

 

[SkunkBoat]

If you are going with Garmin then Reactor 40 with SmartPump is the best. It will work with your existing Seastar helm/cylinder.
If you want to troll slowly, don't go with the lesser model.
It is big. You need to plan it out. Where is it going? Its not going in your dash behind the wheel.
Do you need a separate control/disply GHC 20 or will you use an existing Garmin chartplotter?

Look at these threads
AutoPilot upgrade from manual hydraulic

Field replaceable fittings for SeaStar 5/16ID hose

 

[hooked on Grady]

thank you, I will start looking for a place for the pump. originally the wash down and bait well pump were mounted in the starboard storage in the cabin, since I put 2 new pumps in the back for those I possibly can put the pump there. My next thought would be could it be installed nearer to engine rather then helm since I am just running wires to helm from it. I have my hydraulic hoses from engine into boat a short length then couplings to longer lengths to helm. thinking I could use that split to mount in the back. Definitely a heads up for vibration dampening will mount with vibration isolators. thanks for the heads up

 

[Halfhitch]

When thinking of mounting the AP pump near your motors, don't forget that the pump requires a case drain hose back to the helm reservoir.

 

[drbatts]

I installed a Garmin reactor and smart pump before last season. Best autopilot I have ever owned. They recommend the pump be located close to the batteries. which are in the stern bilge area. I also have Twins which have the hydro line teed off in that area which makes the plumbing of the lines easy. It also might be a good idea to call up a couple of local Grady dealers and ask where they install the various components on your model. Usually the service techs are very helpful. .

 

[hooked on Grady]

great help gentlemen, much appreciated. If I could get it mounted somewhere in the back on my bracketed offshore that would likely be easier for vibration isolation as well. that leaves me with the case drain hose that has to go back to steering. Since this is all new to me(never laid eyes on a unit) are there concerns with running that drain forward that make it wiser to mount the unit up front, that is my biggest concern. I am willing to ponder things for days but I hate doing things twice. help make sure I get it right the first time. that said, thank you in advance for any further wisdom you throw my way.

 

[SkunkBoat]

You can get the install manuals on garmin.com . Look them over.
As stated in my thread they recommend placing pump nearer to cylinder(motor). Since you already have split hoses with fittings, you could use two 3/8 TEE and two new short hoses with Parker fittings. Make sure you get the right TEE.
The power cable is 9 ft long and they don't want you to extend it.
I have House 12v power on its own switch, separated from motor start power. The AP power is connected to the House switch thru its own inline blade fuse.

The garmin Reactor 40 system can be bought as a bundle that includes Smartpump v2, a 9 axis sensor, a GHC20 display/control, a Shadow drive and cables.
The system can be run using a compatible garmin MFD (or other brand I suppose) without a Shadow drive or GHC20.
I prefer to operate the AP with a GHC20 near the wheel rather than having to use my chartplotter/sonar/radar screen.
Shadow drive lets you use your steering wheel to override the AP temporarily to avoid objects and it will return to the previous course.

The third hydraulic hose is referred to as the compensation line. It is possible to make this out of cheaper 3/8 nylon tubing with compression fittings because it is not under high pressure.
IMO, I don't like hydraulics and 3/8 compression fittings. I used the same Seastar 1000psi hose and Parker fittings as the on the pressurized Port & Stbd lines.

 

[hooked on Grady]

thank you very much. I totally understand that and I also liked the idea of the separate screen for it ,I was leaning that way anyway. You have eliminated any anxiety over going blindly into yet another project, I know I can handle the AP project. thanks again for sharing your wisdom.

 

[brdawg2001]

Yea, I did this last year...I already had a TR-1 so already had hydraulics setup...I am very lucky on placement in my boat...easy to get to and next to the batteries. Very happy with the Garmin unit...I was trolling a lot in big seas and that thing can still hold!!