AutoPilot upgrade from manual hydraulic

[Diad]

Are you putting the pump in the same place as me? I think your distances are different.
The Shadow at 4 ft will put it in a place hard to reach. Mine is 2 ft from helm right where you can get at it with the gauge panel off. I think they want it close to the helm too.
Not sure the split ...8 ft from helm /16ft from cylinder... gets you to where I put mine. 8 seems short, 16 seems long from what I remember.
You have the old helm with 1/4NPT elbows? thats going to be a pain to get them lined up when tight.

You list 3/8 to 5 ORB TEE where is that going? I used 3/8 tube Tee. Parker fittings connect to 3/8 tube thread (9/16-24)

You have a V2 pump? Look at my post https://www.greatgrady.com/threads/autopilot-garmin-reactor-40-with-smartpump-info.35507/
The V2 that I got has ORB fittings with straight 1/4NPT adapters You can replace them with ORB elbows or go straight in. They also have ports on top and on side...you can move the plugs and fittings to use top or side.

Yes, I plan to put the pump where you did inside the starboard tackle box in the cockpit. On mine, it appears to be about 8’ from the helm but I can easily make that a longer run (just buy 2 20’ sections for example). I can shorten the hose to the shadow drive to be behind the gauges (great point about access). The orb tee was only if I decided to tee into the pump (which is the 1.7 versus G2 like you). I’m going to tee in the line so the other tees is what I will use. The he 90 off the helm was suggested by Seastar. I realize that it might be a challenge to get it going the same direction as the two existing 90’s but I’ll have to figure out something else if need be. Otherwise, any other thoughts?
Thanks so much!!

 

[Diad]

Finally getting back to installing the AP. I actually purchased a new helm and steering ram to go along with the new hydraulic lines. I have a sickness with bringing this boat up to new. Anyway, while making sure that i have all of my parts i noticed that i do not have the fittings for the Shadow Drive. After reading mostly on THT about the shadow drive issues and most people don't install it or the ones that do have major problems and then remove or disengage it, do you have issues with the Shadow Drive in your set up? Do you like the feature? Anyone else have an opinion?

 

[SkunkBoat]

I have it. No problems at all. It works well. You can use the wheel to avoid things without having to disengage the autopilot. it goes back to your original heading.

 

[drbatts]

Never had a problem with the shadow drive on my AP. It's a nice feature to have.

 

[dogdoc]

do not have it on my raymarine ev150, not an option. could not justify the expense, (garmin)to get it

 

[brdawg2001]

I had the original tr1 before Garmin bought them and now have the gpc 20...flawless...beware that installation is not easy and you will probably have to get custom hoses made...the shadow drive feature is money as well

 

[Diad]

i made all of the hoses based on the sizes of the old hoses that i removed from the boat. Those Parker fittings are really nice! I added the Shadow Drive so hopefully, i have no issues too. I am not at the boat but in preparing so i can be efficient when i get there, i'm thinking about power to the pump. I know that i need to go back to the battery switch but where would i go with the negative? Would that go up near the helm to the terminal block? OR would i place this ring on the actual negative battery lug? OR should both the positive and negative each go to one of the starboard batteries versus through the switch ( i doubt this one)? Thanks!

 

[dogdoc]

no need to go to the battery with either. mine is powered from pos and neg buss low at the helm, those buss are fed directly from the transom/house battery.

 

[SkunkBoat]

i made all of the hoses based on the sizes of the old hoses that i removed from the boat. Those Parker fittings are really nice! I added the Shadow Drive so hopefully, i have no issues too. I am not at the boat but in preparing so i can be efficient when i get there, i'm thinking about power to the pump. I know that i need to go back to the battery switch but where would i go with the negative? Would that go up near the helm to the terminal block? OR would i place this ring on the actual negative battery lug? OR should both the positive and negative each go to one of the starboard batteries versus through the switch ( i doubt this one)? Thanks!

I run the Garmin power cable (with fuse holder) to my battery switch that is under the stbd gunnel. Your battery switch is father back, on the transom. It might reach. Definitely get + on the switch not direct to battery. Negative goes to the battery terminal.
The SmartPump draws ALOT of power. I wouldn't put it on the terminal bus with everthing else. You want its current running through its own wires (both of them) so it doesn't cause a voltage drop on your panel. If you extend the Garmin wire you have to go UP in wire gauge. read the manual. it says what I just said.
FYI, when you turn on your batt switch, the Smartpump ECU will get power immediately even if the AP is not "turned on" on a screen.
So, if you are not on a switch, you will drain your battery just like if you left a radio on....

 

[Diad]

thanks guys!

 

[drbatts]

Mine is attached to the battery switch and the negative goes to the battery. Fortunately, in my boat the pump is on the shelf in rear bilge which is close to the batteries. You don't have that luxury in a 265.

 

[dogdoc]

I stand corrected, it seems installing one auto pilot does not an expert make.

From Garmin Reactor 40/shadow drive install

• Fuse: 40 A, blade-type
• Main power usage: standby - less than 1 A; engaged - 5-10 A; peak - 34 A
• Flow rate: Configurable from 0 to 2.4 L per minute

On the other hand my Raymarine ev150 type 1 pump, a simple reversible hydraulic pump gets power from the ACU via 14ga wire (I used 12 ga) with no inline fuse. There is internal over current protection within the ACU. The ACU is powered by a 12 ga wire from the helm buss (ok by Raymarine) and fused with a 15 amp blade fuse.

Apples and oranges, good luck with the install. More than likely you will think it is one of the best things you ever did to the boat.

 

[Diad]

AP is in along with whole new steering system. dockside wizard worked great! Only mistake that I know about is hooking the hydraulics up backwards so steering was opposite. Changed at the tee and back in business. this weekend I will compound and wax then back in the water to program the AP and complete the new motor break in. I’m not looking forward to 7 hours of engine break in. Whoa is me