Hoping someone has solved the problem of the bait and cooler hatches slamming closed without any type of cushion . I’ve attempted to remind my friends to close them slowly but doesn’t always happen . Have considered new friends but at my age not that easy . I know the new models have a hydraulic arm which I was considering but my local Grady dealer said its not that easy to install . I have a 98 208 Adventurer Any suggestions thanks.
Bait and Cooler Hatches -Slamming Close [208]
- Thread starter steveditt
- Start date
I tried to install one of those hydraulic arms on the Overnighter I had years ago and was unsuccessful. I finally partially solved the problem by telling my friends that slamming the cover would cost an extra $5 towards gas for the boat. They learn fast.
Steveditt,
I had this same problem with the wife slamming the kitchen cabinet doors. No way I could sleep late.
What I did was get some Velcro. Cut small strips of the soft fuzzy side of the Velcro and put them in the corners.
Works great. This will work on the boat as well.
Good luck.
I had this same problem with the wife slamming the kitchen cabinet doors. No way I could sleep late.
What I did was get some Velcro. Cut small strips of the soft fuzzy side of the Velcro and put them in the corners.
Works great. This will work on the boat as well.
Good luck.
I have a 248 voyager that had the same problem. However I went to the dreaded west marine and picked up some hydrolic arms and installed , now you have to put some effort into shutting them.
wrxhoon
Well-Known Member
I installed S/steel gas struts in my 228G, not hard to install as long as you have another boat there with them so you can copy the location for the brackets.
I couldn't find one here in Australia so I relied on pictures to get the correct angle.
I couldn't find one here in Australia so I relied on pictures to get the correct angle.
Gas springs are pretty easy. Just play with the location a bit to see what will work for you... Having the spring on the more "out of the way" side, placement of the spring to allow the hatch to open far enough for your liking, etc.
All springs will have specs that show, in addition to the poundage, the extended and closed lengths. Mounts can be flat or angle. You can create a more solid area to attach the mount (if you prefer not to thru-bolt) by fiberglassing/epoxying a wood block to the back side of the hatch, for example. You could even paint the block after installing so it looks good.
All in all, pretty straight forward and not very hard. Something in the 20lb or 40lb range will be fine. DO NOT buy automotive spring lifts. Spend the couple extra bucks on a marine lift (Attwood or Sierra, for example) and they'll last much longer. SS is certainly better than the standard marine lifts, but that's your call.
All springs will have specs that show, in addition to the poundage, the extended and closed lengths. Mounts can be flat or angle. You can create a more solid area to attach the mount (if you prefer not to thru-bolt) by fiberglassing/epoxying a wood block to the back side of the hatch, for example. You could even paint the block after installing so it looks good.
All in all, pretty straight forward and not very hard. Something in the 20lb or 40lb range will be fine. DO NOT buy automotive spring lifts. Spend the couple extra bucks on a marine lift (Attwood or Sierra, for example) and they'll last much longer. SS is certainly better than the standard marine lifts, but that's your call.