Batteries low voltage help sailfish 274

[Kovito]

New starter battery next to house and both read 10 and 10.5 volts at panel.(same as old starter battery read too ) Obviously cannot get boat to start. I cleaned terminal connections from both batteries and at connection to battery switch.

Any ideas what to check next for resistance, ohms or bad solonoid/fuses ? (Grady white sailfish 274 with volvo penta mad diesel supercharger).
Thanks for any help.

 

[seasick]

If you read that voltage whiteout cranking the engines, something is really wrong.
Measure the voltage of the batteries at their battery terminals, That should be 12.5 volts minimum for a decent charge. If the voltage is 10 and 10.5 volts, the batteries are dead, seriously dead. They may take a charge, but they may be shot. Was something left on. Are batteries connected to each other ( how are your battery switches set up?

 

[seasick]

If you read that voltage whiteout cranking the engines, something is really wrong.
Measure the voltage of the batteries at their battery terminals, That should be 12.5 volts minimum for a decent charge. If the voltage is 10 and 10.5 volts, the batteries are dead, seriously dead. They may take a charge, but they may be shot. Was something left on. Are batteries connected to each other ( how are your battery switches set up?

 

[Kovito]

If you read that voltage whiteout cranking the engines, something is really wrong.
Measure the voltage of the batteries at their battery terminals, That should be 12.5 volts minimum for a decent charge. If the voltage is 10 and 10.5 volts, the batteries are dead, seriously dead. They may take a charge, but they may be shot. Was something left on. Are batteries connected to each other ( how are your battery switches set up?

I'll check this afternoon. Two batteries , one starter and one house connect to the battery switch. One is for starter and two for house, and a both.

The starter battery is brand new however and still getting 10v at panel helm reading and 10.5 reading for house. Once click for switch on 1 as well as 2 and both also just hears one click. I'll check with multimeter tonight.

 

[Blaugrana]

Per the above, use a multimeter to measure volts at both batteries. If they are good, I would check voltage at your switch assuming somewhere between battery and helm is your problem.

If starter battery is bad, try to exchange under warranty since new.

 

[Kovito]

Per the above, use a multimeter to measure volts at both batteries. If they are good, I would check voltage at your switch assuming somewhere between battery and helm is your problem.

If starter battery is bad, try to exchange under warranty since new.

So I charged the new battery and the house battery and the helm now has good voltage readings.

I cannot start the engine using the number one battery or the number two battery I have to switch it to both to start the engine. Then it cranks for 10 seconds before it starts up. After that when I put the RPMs to 1000 to 1500 it won't sustain and it wavers and loses power. Is this a bad starter symptom?

 

[Blaugrana]

Wavers and loses power as in turns off?

I’ll defer to the experts on here but one of my batteries earlier this year would allow the engine to start but the engine would turn off after a while as there was a loose/ disconnected ground.

Also, curious if your engine would turn off that quickly if the alternator was not working.

 

[DennisG01]

So I charged the new battery and the house battery and the helm now has good voltage readings.

I cannot start the engine using the number one battery or the number two battery I have to switch it to both to start the engine. Then it cranks for 10 seconds before it starts up. After that when I put the RPMs to 1000 to 1500 it won't sustain and it wavers and loses power. Is this a bad starter symptom?

Your starter has nothing to do with the wavering and losing power.

You said you charged the batteries, but I think it's still prudent to check them out better. Disconnect the negative lead from each battery tonight. Leave them go overnight and come back tomorrow afternoon and see what the V is directly AT THE BATTERIES. Check for V before you put the leads back on. If they read good, charge them fully and then get them load tested (Autozone, etc).

Voltage issues can cause all kinds of problems and it's really not worth doing any more diagnosing until battery health is confirmed (which, at this point, it is not).

Oh, just curious... in your first post you said "Grady white sailfish 274 with volvo penta mad diesel supercharger)"... why is it angry?

 

[Kovito]

Wavers and loses power as in turns off?

I’ll defer to the experts on here but one of my batteries earlier this year would allow the engine to start but the engine would turn off after a while as there was a loose/ disconnected ground.

Also, curious if your engine would turn off that quickly if the alternator was not working.

Sorry I didn't describe correctly. After rough turn over and it has started it runs smooth. Upon throttle up to 1000-1500rpm the rpms waver and bounce and loose rpm power back down to 700 rpm and it runs smooth again at those lower rpms. Almost like turbo charger is trying to engage but can't ?

 

[seasick]

The low revs can be a few things: There could be a critical alarm and the motor is protecting itself. If that is the case, you should hear the alarm horn.
It could be a fuel delivery issue. It is 99.9% not a battery problem.

Check that when the batteries were removed and reinstalled that the large battery cable that connects the negative terminals of both batteries together was not left off. While checking, look for any negative (usually black or yellow) cables that weren't reconnected.
One more test to do: When you are measuring the battery voltage with everything either disconnected or turned off, after those measurements, connect anything that you may have disconnected and start the motor. Using the battery switch selected to one battery, measure the voltage again at that battery with the revs sped up . The voltage should be 13.5 or higher .
I am sure you know this but I will repeat it. If the motor is running never switch batteries by turning the switch past OFF. You can go from BATT1 to BOTH to BATT2 and visa versa just not through OFF

 

[DennisG01]

Almost like turbo charger is trying to engage but can't ?

The turbo doesn't really have anything to do with it, either. It wouldn't cause the rough running, it would just cause lack of power and excessive black smoke. That part could be fuel related, especially if you haven't been treating the diesel properly you may have microbial growth and possibly a fouled filter. Drain the filter - how does the fuel look? And, just to add, some engines are very voltage dependent and do funky things when they're not getting the V they want - especially newer ones - I'm not sure what year your engine is or what type of computer it uses (if any). But, you still have to figure out the voltage thing, so get on that, first.

 

[Kovito]

The turbo doesn't really have anything to do with it, either. It wouldn't cause the rough running, it would just cause lack of power and excessive black smoke. That part could be fuel related, especially if you haven't been treating the diesel properly you may have microbial growth and possibly a fouled filter. Drain the filter - how does the fuel look? And, just to add, some engines are very voltage dependent and do funky things when they're not getting the V they want - especially newer ones - I'm not sure what year your engine is or what type of computer it uses (if any). But, you still have to figure out the voltage thing, so get on that, first.

Ok prefilter was all gummed up so I changed and will change primary filter next. Hopefully that's the issue.
I just was confused to why both batteries have to be switch to in order for a turn over and selecting an individual battery only gets one click. I would of thought that would be electrical. First boat so I appreciate everyones help! Hopefully changing primary fuel filter does the trick.

 

[wspitler]

If you meant "kad" vs "mad," I believe there is an electrically actuated supercharger that could be the problem with acceleration. I suspect it is similar to the AC compressor clutch design, but that is quite different from the typical turbocharged diesels. I'd get the battery problem fixed first and test them with a load tester. Once you have 13+ volts while running, then look to see if the supercharger is engaging, assuming of course that is the supercharged KAD engine.

 

[DennisG01]

I just was confused to why both batteries have to be switch to in order for a turn over and selecting an individual battery only gets one click. I would of thought that would be electrical. First boat so I appreciate everyones help! Hopefully changing primary fuel filter does the trick.

It IS electrical. You might be reading through the posts too quickly and not taking the time to read and understand.

Regarding the filter... you may need to have the fuel polished. What additives are you using? How long has the fuel been in the tank? You should at least be using a biocide.

 

[Lt.Mike]

Reading thru the posts it seems there is a few things going on but I’ll make a comment on one small part. I had read 10 volts at the panel too but 12.5 at the batteries.
The problem was the 10 gauge primary ground wire was compromised by corrosion that traveled its length under its jacketing. A length of new wire did the trick.

 

[Blaugrana]

Reading thru the posts it seems there is a few things going on but I’ll make a comment on one small part. I had read 10 volts at the panel too but 12.5 at the batteries.
The problem was the 10 gauge primary ground wire was compromised by corrosion that traveled its length under its jacketing. A length of new wire did the trick.

What 10 gauge are you referring to? Wire connecting to the fuse panel at the helm or a different one?

I still am learning how the key works from an electrical perspective on a boat. Specifically, where it gets it power from as I do not believe it’s the fuse panel so there must be power from the battery directly when it closes the circuit to crank the motor.

 

[Lt.Mike]

The lower the number when referring to wire gauge the thicker the wire. While it is possible to go too thick on the positive side (definitely too thin) going thick on the negative wire errs on the side of caution. Quite often electrical issues are caused by a poor ground but is missed because the mechanic concentrates on whether it’s getting power (positive lead).
Corrosion is the bane of marine wiring and will work its way under the wires jacketing a good bit of its length. Strip an old wire back, it should show bright copper. If corrosion did it’s thing the wire strands will be black and the strands will have micro fractures that make it a poor conductor. If your lucky the wire will completely fail. That’s easy to diagnose, otherwise it may require an ohmmeter to see that it’s failing.
Mine was so bad it showed a voltage drop of 2 volts on a volt meter. Note: an ohmmeter is more sensitive and uses its own 9v battery to test wires. Be careful not to let any type of live electrical power 12v DC or 120AC connect with your ohmmeter as it will damage it.

 

[Kovito]

If you meant "kad" vs "mad," I believe there is an electrically actuated supercharger that could be the problem with acceleration. I suspect it is similar to the AC compressor clutch design, but that is quite different from the typical turbocharged diesels. I'd get the battery problem fixed first and test them with a load tester. Once you have 13+ volts while running, then look to see if the supercharger is engaging, assuming of course that is the supercharged KAD engine.

 

[Kovito]

Volts look fine once engine is started and running.... I changed prefilter and
it starts up normal and quick only if batteries switch is on both, but still on either single battery just one click and no start.

I'll upload video of running. I can start it on "both" switch and It's running smooth until 3000 RpM then it sounds like super charger trying to kick in but can't. Wavers and drops 3000 to 2600 back and forth and back and forth with throttle set in one position like it's trying to activate supercharger?.

 

[Kovito]

Looks like voltage at batteries and after switch is good but the helm voltage is low 10-11 volts.

Engine starts up on battery switch to "both" and wont start on any individual. 2600-3000 rpm i get oscillating rpm trying to kick in turbo.

I'm wondering if the electrical needs updating. Year 2000 grady white sailfish 274. (volvo penta kad44p).