battery sizes

[trapper]

Thought I would post this as I have not received a reply on a recent thread.
Can anyone comment on their battery sizes, sealed or not and if any 208 with a starboard kicker has 2 batteries on the port side. A pic would be great as my plan is to move both batteries to the port side to offset the weight of the kicker. Look forward to the responce.

 

[seasick]

I assume you have a 4 stroke motor to even think about relocation one battery.
Those batteries weigh about 45 pounds I think. I don't know how much difference relocating one battery will make.
To estimate how the boat will change, out find an 90 pound person and have them sit on the port locker lid. That will give a decent estimate of what moving one battery will do.

 

[grady33]

I have a Grady 330 with 4 AGMs. I replaced 2 last year and went with West Marine Group 31 dual purpose AGM. They were. tad bigger than the AGM 27s remaining so i had to get bigger trays. Anyhow, they are on port stern side and the 31s are on outside and now i have a very slight list. Those batteries are heavy!!!!

 

[Holokai]

Not sure what engine you have but size your batteries based on the CCA/CA requirement; most use a group 27.

Rough estimate, two group 27s plus an ACR, onboard charger, etc will bring you within 20-30 lbs of a kicker. I personally do not run a kicker on my 208 so my group 27 wet cells are set up one on each side. On a previous boat I ran a 9.9 Honda kicker and two group 24s on the opposite side helped to balance things out.

 

[Hookup1]

I'm using all Duracell AGM's purchased at Sam's Club.

Group 34 43.10 lbs. 955 MCA 55 AH. $119.32
Group 24 52.40 lbs. 800 MCA 78 AH. Did not see availability at my store.
Group 27 61.55 lbs. 900 MCA 92 AH. $158.88
Group 31 67.35 lbs. 1,000 MCA 105 AH. $179.74

I used a Group 34M Duracell Marine AGM for my Yamaha F150's. About 9 lbs lighter than a Group 24 and 17 lbs lighter than a Group 27 with higher MCA rating but less capacity. Also used for my 4th battery for bow thruster, windlass and bait tank pumps.

For the house I use a single Group 27 AGM.

 

[trapper]

A big thanks to all of the above who shared their info. I have a F200 xb and at the moment have a group 27 battery on each side. Wanting to to move the starboard one to port. Approx.45 lbs. which will offset the weight of the kicker. Would like to go to a smaller size (shape ) for the fit, as two on one side is tight. Looking for batteries out there that have a similar rating as group 27 but smaller is size. Hookup are the 34M adequate for all your starting and electronic needs? I run down riggers and pot pullers with two 7" MFD's
Seasick still looking for a 90 lb. person....or a 45pounder as I am only moving one battery. Is there a rental program on E-Bay?
.

 

[Hookup1]

I use a Group 34M on each engine for starting.
I use a Group 27M for house battery - two MFD's, radio, refrigerator, live well, lighting, etc. - charging off one engine alternator shunt.
Another Group 34M is for accessories - bait tank pump, windlass and Vetus bow thruster - charging off the other engine alternator shunt.

In the past I had low voltage issues as the day went on. Problem solved with this configuration. I don't shut my engines down while I'm out - they are my "generator"s.

I like the Duracell's a lot. Had them for 3+ years now without problems. It was worth the Sam's Club membership for what I saved. Not sure if they are available all across the country. I was concerned that the 34M would not work well for the bow thruster but its been great. The 34M's are fine for starting my F150's - they start right up with little cranking. Make sure you have a charging shunt installed on your motor to charge the house battery. I assume the electronics, down riggers and pot pullers are on the house battery.

 

[seasick]

Two 24s will fit in the starboard locker assuming that the trim tab pump, if you have tabs; was not installed in that locker. On newer 208s the pump is usually located in the cabin, starboard size.

 

[wrxhoon]

A big thanks to all of the above who shared their info. I have a F200 xb and at the moment have a group 27 battery on each side. Wanting to to move the starboard one to port. Approx.45 lbs. which will offset the weight of the kicker. Would like to go to a smaller size (shape ) for the fit, as two on one side is tight. Looking for batteries out there that have a similar rating as group 27 but smaller is size. Hookup are the 34M adequate for all your starting and electronic needs? I run down riggers and pot pullers with two 7" MFD's
Seasick still looking for a 90 lb. person....or a 45pounder as I am only moving one battery. Is there a rental program on E-Bay?
.

I would stick with the 27's if you can fit them in there, if not a Noco jump starter will get you out of trouble and they are very light.
You need a 90 lb counter weight ( sand bag will do) because you still have the 45 lb battery on the starboard side . If you take the starboard battery off then sure you only need 45 lb on the port side .

 

[Holokai]

Go with a Yandina combiner, BEP Marine Battery Cluster, or a Blue Seas Mini ACR kit. The Yandina and BEP are a lot easier to add to the circuit; the ACR requires additional cables and fuses. I’ve had all setups and they work fine. If the group 24 can start your main engine then that should be the ticket. AGM is always nice and I’m switching to the Duracell’s from Sam’s Club when my current wet cells go bad.

 

[Fishtales]

I have (4) group 27s wired in two banks (factory set up). Works fine for me.

 

[seasick]

The OPs vessel is a 208, single engine, two batteries. No need to over engineer the battery configuration. I run on one battery only and keep the second as backup. On trips back to the dock ( 15 minutes or more), I may select switch position BOTH to top off the second battery and I try to alternate which battery I set out with. No charger, no ACR. It is a simple set up. I use flooded cells, starting batteries and I have changed batteries twice in 15 years. Yup, 7 years on a set. I keep my boat outdoors covered during the winter and make sure batteries are fully charged before layup. I disconnect ground cables and leave the batteries in the locker. I used to pull them but it's too much work and not needed.
I generally do not trickle charge at all during the winter and for 15 years, the motor has started every time in the spring Boat has bee stored in the NY/NJ area.

 

[trapper]

Thanks again, I already have a ACR installed. Yes my tab pump is in the stern on the port side so that will be relocated. seasick you mentioned the newer 208 have them installed in the cabin....I guess a lot more hydraulic line and wiring will be needed. I will have to measure twice and move once before the next step. Would like to stay with Group 27 and believe I will be going to AGM on the change. Appears there is no such thing as a light battery in the 27 Group unless one goes to Lithium which I know very little accept they are big bucks. I will stay in touch as things unfold.

 

[seasick]

Yes I believe the pump is in the starboard cabin locker but someone with a newer 208 should know for sure. The standard length hydraulic lines that come with the retrofit tab kit are not long enough. Yours of course will be way too short. You will have to order a longer set. Wiring is no big deal for the most part since the pump and controls are actually now closer to the helm.

 

[Ky Grady]

I'm running 2 group 24's for motor and electronics, 2 group 27's for trolling motor. 24's in starboard box and 27's in port box.

 

[Holokai]

The OPs vessel is a 208, single engine, two batteries. No need to over engineer the battery configuration. I run on one battery only and keep the second as backup. On trips back to the dock ( 15 minutes or more), I may select switch position BOTH to top off the second battery and I try to alternate which battery I set out with. No charger, no ACR. It is a simple set up. I use flooded cells, starting batteries and I have changed batteries twice in 15 years. Yup, 7 years on a set. I keep my boat outdoors covered during the winter and make sure batteries are fully charged before layup. I disconnect ground cables and leave the batteries in the locker. I used to pull them but it's too much work and not needed.
I generally do not trickle charge at all during the winter and for 15 years, the motor has started every time in the spring Boat has bee stored in the NY/NJ area.

We run 1kW and 600W transducers, autopilot, 2 MFDs, multiple radios, etc. and stay out for 12+ hours most days. The stock battery configuration would result in a low voltage warning on the MFDs less than halfway through the day. We also fish far and in rough water so the redundancy/active charging is peace of mind (especially for comms) since SeaTow doesn’t service the areas we fish.

Different setups for different applications. I fish my boat hard and you use yours in a completely different manner. I’m sure the stock setup works fine for most and should have clarified my use prior to describing my setup to avoid the impression that the setup is over engineered.

 

[Holokai]

Thanks again, I already have a ACR installed. Yes my tab pump is in the stern on the port side so that will be relocated. seasick you mentioned the newer 208 have them installed in the cabin....I guess a lot more hydraulic line and wiring will be needed. I will have to measure twice and move once before the next step. Would like to stay with Group 27 and believe I will be going to AGM on the change. Appears there is no such thing as a light battery in the 27 Group unless one goes to Lithium which I know very little accept they are big bucks. I will stay in touch as things unfold.

Food for thought; what is the cost of a retrofit to electric tabs versus the cost to relocate the pump? Likely a bit more ($300 or so at West Marine) but the electric actuators are plug and play and you can delete the hydraulic pump to save space.

 

[seasick]

Food for thought; what is the cost of a retrofit to electric tabs versus the cost to relocate the pump? Likely a bit more ($300 or so at West Marine) but the electric actuators are plug and play and you can delete the hydraulic pump to save space.

Good point. The OP just needs to check if the model of the current tabs can be converted to electric actuators. I would suspect that most of the current wiring can be reused, I am not sure about the switch and possible indicators.

 

[trapper]

Once again what a helpful group!!! Will look into electric tabs, my hydraulic tabs are going on 15 years old , not sure of their longevity, but the only issue I have had is the port switch needed replacing ...easy fix. KY you are sure packing your weight in batteries, would love to see a photo of them in position. So you can get two Group 27 in the port box, assuming they are sealed so no maintenance needed. I have my boat in the marina for another month so will approach the change when I bring it home.
No issues with barnacles, just some greenery that I power wash off when pulled out on the trailer every 3 weeks or so. I run the boat enough that it is only on the sides (water line) and the stern just over the tabs, hull stays buffed from running.

 

[Scot Smith]

The “ group size” imo seems to be more important in cars than in boats, because cars have very limited engine space and are set up for a specific size battery
I learned this while shopping my batteries apparently there is little difference between group 21- 34 battery capacity , more different in size