Has anyone made use of these add on Anode kits that go on the outboard lip of the tabs? They are set up to be used with existing holes but my lifts arms attach there directly as well. Is it just a longer bolt which attaches through all?
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Bennet Trim Tab Anode Kits
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Fishshoreman
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I just installed them on my tabs. The kit comes with longer bolts that are installed through the anodes, tabs, and into the cylinder brackets.
Fishin' Rod
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Fishshoreman said:I just installed them on my tabs. The kit comes with longer bolts that are installed through the anodes, tabs, and into the cylinder brackets.
Same here, they work fine.
bayrat
GreatGrady Captain
X 3..However, on later model Grady's (not sure what year it started) the trim tabs that Bennett supplied were powder coated. If yours are it's important that you grind off that coating so that the anode makes good contact with the tab otherwise it will not serve it's purpose correctly.
ElyseM
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is an anode necessary on your installation? i know that my tabs are pretty much "standalone" in that they are connected to the boat/ram with non-conductive parts. maybe the older models are metal? ron
Fishin' Rod
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ElyseM said:is an anode necessary on your installation? i know that my tabs are pretty much "standalone" in that they are connected to the boat/ram with non-conductive parts. maybe the older models are metal? ron
If your Tabs are made of plastic you won't have to worry about electrolysis. Are They?
BobP
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Alternately, or additionially, you can use the split rudder style anodes and install 1/2 per tab. I used a 3/6 inch philips head screw and standard hex nut on top side. Drill a small hole mid tab, anode goes on top.
I can provide a link of the type and size selected, it's about 3 - 3/4 inch diameter and much more stock than Bennet type. I needed more anode than the smaller block could provide. Can reuse the hardware annually and keep a few much bucks for other goodies.
Since the tabs screw into a wood transom as other fitings do and motor does, and since there is no such thing as moisture free wood (it would be sand, instead wood conducts), the zinc also protects other underwater metals besides the tab it's on.
I can provide a link of the type and size selected, it's about 3 - 3/4 inch diameter and much more stock than Bennet type. I needed more anode than the smaller block could provide. Can reuse the hardware annually and keep a few much bucks for other goodies.
Since the tabs screw into a wood transom as other fitings do and motor does, and since there is no such thing as moisture free wood (it would be sand, instead wood conducts), the zinc also protects other underwater metals besides the tab it's on.
ElyseM
GreatGrady Captain
Fishin' Rod said:ElyseM said:is an anode necessary on your installation? i know that my tabs are pretty much "standalone" in that they are connected to the boat/ram with non-conductive parts. maybe the older models are metal? ron
If your Tabs are made of plastic you won't have to worry about electrolysis. Are They?
no, they're ss. it's the connecting components that appear to be some kind of plastic. maybe it's just the install. '09 330 so the tabs are screwed in under the hull (which should be glass, not wood). i didn't have any zincs on the 232 (2002) either and the tabs where in like new condition when i traded it away. i'll be keeping a closer eye on them though; won't hurt. ron
Fishshoreman
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For what it's worth, Bennet owner's manual states "if the boat is to be kept in saltwater anodes must be installed". Having said that, I have Bennets on my other boat and there are no anodes installed. It was kept in the water from May thru Nov and I never had a problem. For that price I figured it would hurt either on the Grady.
catch22
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If you're in a sw slip, no doubt about it... put zincs on them. You'd be surprised how badly they can erode, and unless you take a really good look at them, you might not notice it, (hidden by paint). I've seen the stainless mounting screws, (on the hinge) erode to the point where the heads broke off and then the plane popped off. This happened while the boat was under way. :shock: The boat was pulled and after inspection, the heads on more than half of the screws were gone. The same thing was happening on the other tab, (it would have only been a matter of time) all of the mounting screws had severe erosion. Also, after wire-wheeling the paint off of the remaining plane, hinges and back plates, they all had bad erosion. Ended up replacing everything, (metal).
I prefer the rudder style over the "kits" that attach to the bottom of the actuator. When those zincs start to deteriorate, the mounting screws can become loose. I've actually discussed this with someone at Bennett, and they agreed - go with rudder type. I know there's a bushing in there, but I still don't trust it. What I do is... use only 1 side, (half) of the zinc and mount it on the top side of the plane. That way you don't have anything bulky on the bottom of the plane to interfere or disturb normal tab performance, plus, imo, it would be under constant force which might accelerate erosion, or even loosen the zinc/hardware.
It's not just a matter of having your boat up to snuff, but other near-by boats in your marina can affect your boat too. One year, you might be fine, then next year, someone keeps their charger going 24/7, or has inadequate protection on their boat, and it robs other near-by boats. There's really no way to get control of it, except to insure you have zincs everywhere you could possibly need them, and keep an eye on them.
I prefer the rudder style over the "kits" that attach to the bottom of the actuator. When those zincs start to deteriorate, the mounting screws can become loose. I've actually discussed this with someone at Bennett, and they agreed - go with rudder type. I know there's a bushing in there, but I still don't trust it. What I do is... use only 1 side, (half) of the zinc and mount it on the top side of the plane. That way you don't have anything bulky on the bottom of the plane to interfere or disturb normal tab performance, plus, imo, it would be under constant force which might accelerate erosion, or even loosen the zinc/hardware.
It's not just a matter of having your boat up to snuff, but other near-by boats in your marina can affect your boat too. One year, you might be fine, then next year, someone keeps their charger going 24/7, or has inadequate protection on their boat, and it robs other near-by boats. There's really no way to get control of it, except to insure you have zincs everywhere you could possibly need them, and keep an eye on them.
Fishshoreman
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Catch22- It all depends on the installation. In your case you are able to mount the zincs to the top of the tabs but there are different configurations for mounting the tabs. For instance, my tabs are mounted in "pockets" under the hull so the zinc on top method would not work. It would stop the tab from going flush to the hull. I agree with you though that if keeping the boat in saltwater the zincs, whichever configuration you decide, should be used. It is cheap insurance. Catch-em up!!!
catch22
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Fishshoreman said:Catch22- It all depends on the installation. In your case you are able to mount the zincs to the top of the tabs but there are different configurations for mounting the tabs. For instance, my tabs are mounted in "pockets" under the hull so the zinc on top method would not work. It would stop the tab from going flush to the hull. I agree with you though that if keeping the boat in saltwater the zincs, whichever configuration you decide, should be used. It is cheap insurance. Catch-em up!!!
That's true and a very good point. No choice really, but to use the "kit" style.
I just re-read this thread, and realized BobP already covered using the rudder style halves. Sorry Bob.
BobP
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Catch, no problem, I needed to add more zinc, but it is more economical to use the rudder type if others have such needs (like me too !) - it's half the cost.
- realizing the integral tab style tucked under the transom do not work with rudder type.
But I believe the Bennet type anode does have inserts impeded about the two holes for the machine screws that is not zinc, not sure what metal it is, but it does not erode and does not appear to be same metal as the rest of the anode. My anodes were basically gone but the actuator was still olid attached.
Had a severe problem with stray currect this past season that wiped out all four stainless scuppers, until finding out why, going heavy on zinc.
- realizing the integral tab style tucked under the transom do not work with rudder type.
But I believe the Bennet type anode does have inserts impeded about the two holes for the machine screws that is not zinc, not sure what metal it is, but it does not erode and does not appear to be same metal as the rest of the anode. My anodes were basically gone but the actuator was still olid attached.
Had a severe problem with stray currect this past season that wiped out all four stainless scuppers, until finding out why, going heavy on zinc.
catch22
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BobP said:But I believe the Bennet type anode does have inserts impeded about the two holes for the machine screws that is not zinc, not sure what metal it is, but it does not erode and does not appear to be same metal as the rest of the anode. My anodes were basically gone but the actuator was still olid attached.
That's good to know Bob.... I always wanted to know for sure.
BobP said:Had a severe problem with stray currect this past season that wiped out all four stainless scuppers, until finding out why, going heavy on zinc.
You might want to try one of these - http://www.goodboatgear.com/detail/2765 ... 20-%20Zinc
Just clip it on one of your outboards while at the slip. It'll extend the life of the ones on the boat.
BobP
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I appreciate the advice, a buddy of mine used one of these for the same purpose, and it didn't work as intended. Can bo so dealing with anodes and how they function. For instance, my Grady drive anode and big Yamaha anodes are staying intact fine, I would think they would help out since all connected to the same ground.
I installed an A/C, 3rd battery, and new AC panel - last year.
It's one of these, I already replaced the two bilge switches since wires sit in water, and the cabling for the two bilge pump auto ckts. I found some galvanic damage on the main ships breaker load side nut, I wonder what was going on ! Perhaps bleeding off to ground due to Sw contamination with something else, that will do it.
Used bronze for the scuppers this time.
I'll figure it out, but I may drop over the side the guppy at the dock, can't hurt !
I installed an A/C, 3rd battery, and new AC panel - last year.
It's one of these, I already replaced the two bilge switches since wires sit in water, and the cabling for the two bilge pump auto ckts. I found some galvanic damage on the main ships breaker load side nut, I wonder what was going on ! Perhaps bleeding off to ground due to Sw contamination with something else, that will do it.
Used bronze for the scuppers this time.
I'll figure it out, but I may drop over the side the guppy at the dock, can't hurt !